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Electrical issues.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sebban, Jun 4, 2005.

  1. sebban

    sebban Registered Member

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    Hi there!

    I´ve been following this forum for some time now, and now I have some issues that I´m having a hard time to solve on my own. I´ve lost current to my electric choke, and started to look for where it´s broken. Then I find this part under the dash, what is it, it says Rochester on it so I assume it has something to do with the ignition??..

    [​IMG]
    Does anybody have any GOOD wiring diagrams? I´ve got a haynes manual but it sucks... :grin:

    Chevy Blazer -84, 305, 700r4, NP208, 10bolt front, 12bolt rear. 4/5" lift, Bushwacker cut-outs, 38,5/16-15 Baja Claw.
    Waiting 4 parts: 3" bodylift
    To do: Paint the hardtop green, 4.56, new bumpers, winch, get it street legal.
     
  2. Iron_Weasel

    Iron_Weasel Registered Member

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    What kind of wiring diagram are you looking for - Body & Frame, engine management, lighting?
    If you can tell me what you need, I can probably get it.
     
  3. sebban

    sebban Registered Member

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    Everything? :xmas:
    I´m trying to restore the original wiring for the ignition switch/engine management. plus lighting.
    Thanks!!
     
  4. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    What you are holding in the pic is the delay module for your intermittent wipers. To find the lost power to your choke it would be best to just follow the wires backwards from the choke.
     
  5. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    check this...

    The choke has a fuse on GM trucks,make sure its not blown---the oil pressure switch is wired in with the choke too,that can interrupt power to it when it croaks(and it can croak only on the "choke" part,and still work the oil pressure gauge! :screwy: )...and of course follow the wire(S) all the way to their source,to make sure they didnt get cut,or all corroded somewhere...good luck. :crazy:
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Carbed setups with electric chokes use an oil pressure switch and a seperate gauge sender, thats why the gauge can work but the choke may not.

    Sender/switch are usually on a "T" just to the drivers side of the distributor, and have 12V ONLY with the engine running. (oil pressure present)

    Check obvious like fuse first of course. :) Check for voltage before and after the switch to eliminate or implicate it.
     
  7. sebban

    sebban Registered Member

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    ok.. I think I´m learning.. ;)
    I´ve checked the fuse and fuse block, no power if you turn ignition on (but have not started the motor). And the oil pressure switch is working.
    So what you are saying is that the motor has to be running to get 12V on the fuse block?
    I will check the cables all the way and look for the "T" connection when the motor is running, but tomorrow morning, it´s 11pm here now... ;)

    Thanks a bunch guys, you´re worth more than a million books(or bucks ;) )!!!)
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    No.

    I'm *assuming* that since choke is a run only necessity (12V) it's going to be switched with ignition. (Even if constant 12V, there would be voltage on the wire not running to the choke) There should be 12V TO the switch when the key is in run, but with the engine off, the choke wire should have no voltage. When the truck is running, both wires will have 12V, IF the switch is operating correctly.
     

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