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Electrical Nightmare!!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by willymonster, Dec 25, 2006.

  1. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    :confused: :confused: so im out trying to wire my 350 hei just to start,with ignition switch etc. i just put on a 47 cab so theres no wiring past the motor . So the problem is i have 2 different wiring diagrams , 2 different other trucks with (custom) wiring and a scrambled brain . Both other rigs are hei and wired differently. Both diagrams are different , i dont see how either truck is running by the way they are different from the diagrams . and both diagrams somewhat contradict each other . i am baffled and afraid to just try one way or the other in fear of burning up my electrical components . does anybody have a sure fire way of wiring this up i really need help . ive searched everywhere and nobody seems to have a basic 350 hei wiring diagram :confused:
     
  2. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    HEI is pretty simple. Ground, power to the module. Power should be on in Start and Run, and off the rest of the time. Power should be fused, heavy-gauge, with no resistors as used in points ignition. The third wire is a tach output and should be ignored until the truck is running :)

    -- A
     
  3. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    what about the rest of the mess ? i have 3 wires coming off the alternator , 2 in a plug , and 1 i think is bat .where do these go ? my hei has 1 wire coming off the bat terminal it goes to ign.? on my starter solinoid it has 2 small terminals and the one large one . on my other 2 rigs the terminal farthest from the block is not even hooked up but one of the diagrams i have says it is supposed to feed low voltage to the coil while running.
     
  4. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Hey now, you asked about the HEI :)

    There are generic wiring diagrams on my web site

    http://brochures.slosh.com/

    and go to Wiring.

    Past that, it's Christmas, and I'm outta here. :)

    -- A
     
  5. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    i'll try..


    All you need with HEI is a 12 gauge wire with power only when the key (or toggle switch in your case) is "ON"..

    The starter needs the thick purple wire that goes to the post on the solenoid closest to the oil pan energized to 12V,to crank the engine over..older trucks with points did use another wire on the outermost post,that just gave a full 12V to the points while cranking--you dont need that with HEI,just leave that post empty..

    The two prong plug on the altenator controls output..one wire (the red one ) needs a 12V source ,can be "hot" all the time(you could jump it right onto the other thick red wire that is bolted to the rear of the alternator if desired,that is hot all the time..)....the other wire,usually tan ,brown,or white,controls the amperage and voltage output by "sensing" how much voltage is in the battery..it also needs a 12V source,hot only with the ignition "ON"--but it needs resistance also,a #194 marker light bulb is sufficient to make it work properly in leiu of the stock resistance wire the OEM harness had..just splice in the bulbs wires in-line with the power source..:crazy:
     
  6. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    right on diesel4me ! now when you say the purple from the starter and the alt wire need a 12 volt source what exactly do you mean ? we are getting closer , i have the alternator wired how you suggested except i am not sure what the brown side goes to . i have the other to the solenoid . :rolleyes:
     
  7. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    another thing i forgot ,the diagram i have shows the wire from the hei going to ign. side of the switch without going through a fuse is this normal ? and the bulb you were talking about this looks like it would take the place of the ammeter in this diagram . am i om the right track ? (i am very far from being an electrician as you could tell ) :laugh:
     
  8. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    Let me try to help;

    First off, what fue box are you using?

    You should have a blade terminal on the fuse box marked IGN. It will have 12V only with the key in start or run position. This is where you want to hook up the hot side of the HEI.

    For the starter; Big lug goes to hot side of battery.

    One of the two small posts is no longer needed. It was a 12V feed for points ign, when the starter was engaged.

    Find a wire off the ign that is hot only with the key in the start position. Connect this wire to the small lug on the solenoid. I believe either small lug will work. To find out for sure, hook up big lug to starter, and run small jumper wire from hot side of battery. Touch free end of jumper wire to one of the small lugs. If the starter engages and spins, this is the lug you want to hook up to the ign switch.

    Sorry, can't help with the alternator. I can at least get it started.:D :D
     
  9. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    round 2!

    By "12 Volt source",I mean the battery positive terminal,or the switch your using,that is hooked to the battery positive--all the power wires in a fuse box end up at the battery positive terminal eventually!.

    The alternator plug with 2 wires--the brown or tan wire needs a bulb in line--one wire of the bulb socket your going to add, goes to the ignition switch,(or the 12V source!)--the other wire on the bulb socket will go to the brown wire in the alternator plug..without that bulb it will overcharge the battery..the bulb will light until its started and charging,then it'll go out--thats normal..

    ..the red wire on that 2 prong plug goes to a constant 12v hot lead--as I explained before,the "big" stud in back of the alternator has a red wire that goes to the battery positive terminal,and is hot all the time..its the closest place to get 12V for that red wire on the 2 prong plug..

    The inner most stud on the solenoid,closest to the oil pan, is the one that cranks the engine when 12V is applied--thats the only one you'll need..it originally had a thick purple wire on it that goes to the neutral safety and ignition,but your evidently eliminating all that,so all you need is a push button switch--one wire to 12V,the other to the stud on the solenoid..push the button,it cranks!...

    I think looking at the stock wiring diagram is confusing you more than its helping...and yes,ammeters are used on some trucks,others had voltmeters,and both are wired different..I'd just concentrate on wiring YOUR truck ,and not worry about how it was stock,it'll be easier to understand..--I assume your doing this for a "buggy"or are just trying to get something running for whatever reason..:crazy:
     
  10. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    thanks everyone i think we are going to make it happen !!! ill have to try tommorow when theres more light . ya you were right this is somewhat of a truggy im trying to get it started so i can move on to putting on my 63 inchers and 52 fronts . i think im gonna try inboarding the rear springs . funny all that is going to be much easier for me than all this wiring :wink1: thanks for all the help ill keep ya guys posted:laugh: MERRYXMAS
     

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