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Engine Gurus, give me an opinion

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Jul 11, 2003.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    To make a long story short, I am putting a used 350 in my truck. I want to build another engine, and I will, I just would rather focus my funds elsewhere on my truck rather than on the powerplant at the present time. I would like to get my 1 tons swapped in ASAP, get them locked, and get a winch for my truck. I've got my 38s to install too and I want to buy another set of 15x10 8 lug wheels to use them so I can have my current BFGs as well as the Swampers so I can keep them off the pavement as much as possible even though my truck doesn't see much street use anymore.

    Anyway, so my friend gave me this 350 that he said, "It ran fine, it just needed a carburator." I do know where it came from, a guy in town used this truck for his lawn service but it got too rough in its age so he sold it to my friend who bought it for the TH 350/NP 205 setup he had so he could put them in his '76 K20. He didn't need the engine and since I hooked him up a lot in the past, he hooked me up with it for free. So, I figure I'll slap my Performer intake and 1404 Edelbrock on it now for the time being and it'll be fine, right?

    Well, in the process of removing the intake tonight, I found the #1 intake pushrod sticking out of the rocker arm about 3/4 of an inch. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif So, obviously the engine ran crappy due to a dead cylinder. The carb that was on it was a piece of crap anyway, just your typical 23 year old Quadrajet with a throttle shaft so worn that I imagine it wouldn't run an engine on all 8 cylinders very well.

    So, what do you guys think? How far does a lifter have to make its way out of the bore before it seriously affects oil pressure?

    For the time being, I've removed the offending rocker and pushrod. Do you guys think I should just put a used rocker and pushrod in it and put this engine in my truck, or would I be better off if I didn't bother to use this engine? I would really like to get my truck to run in the next 5 days that I have off work so I can concentrate on other things. I've put out a lot of cash at the moment so I really would rather not spend a whole lot of money right now.

    I'd hate to have to pull the motor out of my K30 and use that. It's pretty worn and has seen a rough life...not to mention that I want to get the axles from that thing and get rid of it ASAP to have money for the new wheels and winch.

    So, what do you say? New pushrod and rocker, ditch the engine, or what? What the hell could make a rocker arm wear like that? Hmm...maybe the lifter wasn't pumping oil to it. Replace the cam with an $80 Summit cam?

    I'm just undecided at the moment. I really just want to get my truck running and worry about everything else later. It hasn't ran since August 24, 2002 when it threw a rod due to my stupidity.
     
  2. JustHorsinArownd

    JustHorsinArownd Registered Member

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    I would go ahead and throw a used setup in there and see if the damn thing up and runs. If it does, woohoo. If it doesn't then you're really not out much. Just my $.02 worth. Good luck.

    Allan
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    FWIW I've heard of people putting the pushrod through the rocker, but only from circle track guys. Stock parts turning 65-7000RPM constantly are prone to failure. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    But it was probably just a "weak" part that finally gave up. I'd throw it in and run it too. People for some reason seem to get lucky with used motors when they throw them in.
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Cool, thanks for the encouragement. I'm going to put it together and get it to run in the next few days.

    I am looking for a big block, actually. That's why I haven't rebuilt any of my small blocks. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    That push rod probably got a little gummed up so oil flow wasn't good to the rocker tip for a while. A friend of mine's Dad had a Bel Air that wore through a rocker arm...but that motor had 250,000 miles on it. They replaced the one bad rocker with another stamped steel rocker and it lived for another 10 or 12,000 miles before it finally threw a rod.

    It's amazing how wore out a 350 can be and still run. I personally saw one put together with no gaskets other than silicone (ever see silicone head gaskets?/forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif) and it ran well enough to complete the demo derby...

    Rene
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I was simply worried about the huge hole in the oiling system caused by the lifter that wasn't being pushed back down into the bore occassionally. I'll report how it works out when I get the engine in.
     
  7. K30CJ

    K30CJ 1/2 ton status

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    Just a thought - you could hook up a pressure gauge and run the oil pump with a drill and pump primer to check it out before you do the work of installing the engine. You can buy a pump primer cheap, and it'll be nice to have for when you build the next engine. Or, you can make your own from an old distributor.
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Well if it makes you feel better, maybe the pushrod wasn't far enough up to allow the lifter to come out of the bore. Really I think thats all you have to be concerned with, as long as the lifter was in its bore, no problem.

    I had 2 gallons of water sitting in the oil pan of the motor in my truck when I put it in. Thing still runs (like 3 years later) although the last year or so its been making some noise. Bought me enough time to get a job, and have enough money to build up the motor I have now.
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Well I am not worried about a lack of oil pressure. The engine ran for a long time like this so I'm thinking it's ok.

    My old engine, on the other hand, seems to have broke the cam into multiple pieces, trashed the distributor gear, and the back part of the cam came out through the plug that you normally put cam bearings in with!!

    That said, the "new" engine is completely assembled, my carb and intake are on it, and it's bolted to the SM 465/NP 205 and sitting on the floor. I got my 465's top cover sealed up too (Took a tube and a half of silicone!!) because it was leaking all over the exhaust, forcing me to breathe that crap last year. A few of you guys probably remember all the trouble I had getting that top cover back on last year. This year, it fell right on! Took me a minute to remember how it went, but I mangaged to get it on pretty quick.

    I am so sick of working on my truck. Seems that I've done more work to it in the last two years than drive it. I just want to get it to run and drive. I feel so discouraged at this point, I'm just hoping I can get it going this weekend.

    Seeing the D60 out there and my "new" 38" Swampers in the garage only makes it worse. I can't WAIT to get this thing going so I can concentrate on those two items.

    My new wheels (ordered today for $40 shipped) are 15x10 8 lug with 4 1/4" backspacing. I bet I'm going to have to REALLY grind my brakes to get those to clear. My old wheels were 4 1/8" and I had to grind the **** out of my 10 bolt front. This D60 is gonna be rough.

    Thanks guys! My friend is going to help me get this thing together tomorrow. Cross your fingers for me.
     
  10. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Good luck and have fun./forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Rene
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Got it in. All in one piece, 350, SM 465, and NP 205. Oh, forgot to mention...my buddy never showed up so I did it myself! Not even the girlfriend around to talk to me while I work, just me and a little FM radio to keep me from going completely insane.

    It seems to run fine. Obviously the timing isn't correct, but it's close enough now that it'll idle. The front clip is off right now so no radiator. Obviously I've got to get that on, since I don't want to let it run too long with no cooling.

    Now, if only my mufflers would come in the mail. UPS man, hurry up! It's hard enough to tell what the hell is going on, but 5' of 2 1/4" pipe just isn't enough to get this thing quiet enough to hear what may or may not be going on inside the engine. I had no idea that I'd have it running this quickly, I told Dan no hurry on them. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I still can't believe I managed to get that engine in there myself. All that is really left is to get the driveshafts on, the shifter for the 205, and the front clip back on. I can't believe how much work I got done today.

    3 am, time for bed. Don't have nearly as much time to work tomorrow.
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Alright guys, I need some ideas again. I got it running, got the front clip on and everything. The only problem is a slight popping out of the carburator. I think I've narrowed it down to the same cylinder that had the worn out rocker.

    I thought I might have tightened it up too much, so I loosened it. I've still got the popping. Maybe I didn't loosen it up enough, so I'll try that next.

    Any other possibilities as to why it'd pop out the carb on only one cylinder?
     
  13. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    burned/bent valve ??
    something on the seat preventing it from closing
    did it seem to be fully 'up' compared to the rest?

    leakdown compresion test will show exactly the problem,
    all you need is the tool and compressed air source

    hope it isnt that
     
  14. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Any other possibilities as to why it'd pop out the carb on only one cylinder?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Bent valve, or bad valve seat?

    FWIW, I had a motor with a ruined intake valve, and it idled like COMPLETE garbage, even though it was a 400+ CID V8. No popping through carb though. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I always see people posting the same info like 20 minutes later...are they like me in this post, with 10 browser windows open, getting interrupted every 5 minutes, never getting to hit "continue"? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I meant besides a valve problem. Obviously this engine either has a rocker too tight or a burned valve. I'd simply wondered if there was anything else that could cause this.

    Surprisingly enough, it idles ok...it just pops out the carb when the throttle is opened.

    We'll see what happens tomorrow I suppose. I think I can get a cylinder head for free if I have to. I'm glad to have it running again finally, but irritated that something this simple is going to cause this much work to have to be done. Hopefully it's just too tight.

    I don't have compressed air or a leakdown tester. I'm hoping to get a hold of a compression tester tomorrow.
     
  17. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    I tightened my lifters down too much (first time engine building) and the engine would hardly run. Loosened em all up and voila!
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The problem is that this isn't the first engine I have put together and I know how to adjust valves (I typically do it with the engine off before installing an engine and never have issues). I'm going to loosen it up and hope for the best, but I really don't think it's too tight. If that doesn't work, I think I'm going to pull the head. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Bottom end on this motor seems decent.
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hey come on, this might give you the chance to really shine. 305 head on one side, 350 on the other. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    If you have a valve problem, since you really care little about this motor, you can go to a machine shop, tell them you need ONLY one new valve in the head, and probably be out the door for $40 or so. Once you do a compression test though, you'll know if it's only one cylinder...hopefully thats all it is!
     
  20. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I actually considered 305 heads on BOTH sides since I've got a perfectly good set sitting about 20 feet from my truck. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     

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