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Engine Mount - "missed it by THAT much..."

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BillyTungsten, Dec 3, 2005.

  1. BillyTungsten

    BillyTungsten Registered Member

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    I am finishing the 305 to 350 swap in my C10. Or I would be finishing it if I could get the passenger side engine mount done. The long bolt that passes through the mount will not start - the engine half of the mount is sitting perhaps 1/16th of an inch higher than the truck half of the mount.

    I cannot find anything binding or pinching, the bellhousing lined right up and is bolted, the drivers side engine mount is fine...

    Arrrggghhh.

    Any tips? Small explosive charge? rent a circus elephant to stand on the motor while I feed the bolt? Have your momma do it?

    Help please ;-)
     
  2. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I usually haven't had much trouble with stock mounts, but I know will the poly inserts and with ORD mounts, I had to do a fair amount of manipulation to get everything lined up. One thing to try is to keep the other bolt loose as well as the transmission/t-case mount(s). It will help keep things from binding. Sometimes taking a prybar and lifting the side that is high and then letting it go, with allow it to drop down enough to get you lined up. This is of course assuming nothing is binding (doesn't hurt to double check)...


    Hope this helps

     
  3. onlychevy6

    onlychevy6 1/2 ton status

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    did you replace your motor mounts with urethane? if so make sure they are in correct.
     
  4. skelly1

    skelly1 1/2 ton status

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    Is there a cherry picker attached or a jack underneath it?
     
  5. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Missing shim??

    A few small blocks I've removed had a triangular shim bolted between the block and the engine on the drivers side only,its a flat plate only about 3/16 or so thick..latest one I found was on the 86 G10 my 305 came from that I put in my 79 C10--but I didn't use or need the shim in my C10--the bolts went right thru..but the mounts had 116,000 miles on them too--might be why..

    Some 4x4's had similar plates under the engine brackets for transfer case "truss rods" to bolt too..maybe if they are left off,it will make getting the bolts in more difficult..seen lots of trucks without them that used to have them though.. :crazy:
     
  6. BillyTungsten

    BillyTungsten Registered Member

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    I have used a cherry picker to try and take a little weight off, still unable to feed the bolt.

    I have not found (or looked for) any shims on the drivers side... I will check that out.

    I did not put new bushings in. The truck has 90,000 miles on it - I thought they would be okay...

    Let me ask an obvious (but probably stupid) question: What if I leave it out and pretend it never happened? Holy flying engines, batman?
     
  7. blaznjon

    blaznjon 1/2 ton status

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    grind the end of the bolt to a point and pound it thru. :D
     
  8. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    Loosen the engine mount bolts, so the mount is loose, but still attached, then use a smaller diameter bolt to line the holes up. Get the correct bolt in, then tighten the mount bolts back up.
     
  9. BillyTungsten

    BillyTungsten Registered Member

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    That's pretty much where I am going... the other mount is loose, now I need to scavenge a smaller bolt and see what I can do...

    Thanks guys...
     
  10. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    the rubber slides around in the shell some times. just pry it around some.
     

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