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engine problem...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 84gmcjimmy, Jan 31, 2005.

  1. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    I had another thread: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1127231#post1127231
    but im starting a new one so I can get more help, so I get it done quicker...
    It was suggested that I change my fuel filter first, before I look into rebuilding the carb.
    I changed the filter with a new one...but this is something I noticed. I pulled the old one out, the rubber part was on the thing I pulled out, (not actually on it, but it sat on the metal nut thingy) and the brass (copper, whatever is it) part that was facing towards the carb, was facing out when I pulled the old one out. I get the new one... go to compare them, and on the bottom of the new one, it has a white thing recessed in where the black rubber (gasket maybe?) is. On the other filter there wasn't one there. I thought maybe it was suposed to be there, so I put it together...(Had a hard time hooking the fuel line up...) then fired it up.
    It started, then came off the choke and idled when it was "warmed" up. It was idling at 800RPM, and I go to give it gas up to 1500RPM, and the whole thing chokes, and drops to 400RPM and then I have to pump the gas pedal to prevent it from stalling.
    What is wrong? it worked better with the old filter, than the new fuel filter. Was I suposed to punch the little white thing inside the filter? I neeed help soooooon! This is frustrating.
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Solid end towards carb , that way gas has to go through the opening in filter and out throgh the paper , pull that little rubber springy thing out of it and though it away , I have never used that with no consequence . A tip for tightening the inlet is to snug the big one with a 1 inch box end wrench , tap with hand gently , its done . Then hold that with same wrench and tighten hardline witha 5/8's . :k5: :k5:

    Now I used to run a borrowed a carb and cut my hardline just before the carb so its straight . Now I have the ENDS BUTTED and cut covered with a piece of hose and clamps . When I find a good quadrajet tube I will run it with no cut and hose . The small fitting stays in the big one and I ONLY need one wrench to remove the fitting to do the filter :D

    As for the way it runs , a real thorough cleaning and a rebuild kit . A lot of patience and attention to detail . Post pics if you get lost , and you'll be fine :D
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2005
  3. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    Okay, were is a good place to buy a good carb rebuild kit? Hopefully I can order it in the next week...if I can borrow some money. Then rebuild it soon when I get it in the mail....
     
  4. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    What about the white thing in the filter? I will take a picture of it if no one understands my jibberish:grin:
     
  5. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    I guess I could try and take the white thing off, but if I need it I would have wrecked it.
    Should I take the white thing out?
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    The white thing with the spring in the black rubber ? Remove it all so you just have a hole in one end of the filter :k5: :k5:
     
  7. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    what does the black rubber thing do...is won;t leak without it?
    I'll head out in a minute and try that. Thanks
     
  8. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    raining out, don't want to get water mixed with the carb. so I will wait a few minutes to see if it will quiet down.
     
  9. 1977k5

    1977k5 3/4 ton status Vendor

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    Might try getting rid of the tiny stock filter and adding an inline filter at some point in the system.
     
  10. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    are the inline filters better? What ar the cost on those? Cant get one now, but I will get one when I have more money.
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Man its been a long time since I looked at one of those filters.

    IIRC, and reasoning it out, the spring would go in first, then filter, with the rubber gasketed/open end facing the fuel line.

    The reason for this design is that under normal use, the spring keeps the filter sealed, and all fuel has to pass through it. However, if the filter gets plugged (or maybe if flow exceeds its filtering capability) it will "unseat" and allow fuel to bypass the filter. Then, the fuel flows around the filter and behind it, without being restricted.

    If you remove the spring, it will work, because the fuel will just flow around the filter, not through it.

    The white thing is *probably* a check valve. Used to be that only some Q-jet applications came with check valves in them, but I suspect they got "cheap" for aftermarket filters, and made them all the same. Nothing wrong with that, its designed to keep fuel from draining back into the tank from the carb. Again, without a spring to keep the filter seated/sealed, it won't do a think. I'd push it lightly and see if it moves.
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    IMO inline filters suck. I do NOT like the idea of having any sort of half-tail connections in the fuel system especially anywhere near an ignition source.

    Yes, there are ways to do this correctly, and many people use them with no problems, but I for one would never risk my vehicle or life to some hose clamps and rubber, where GM determined steel was a necessity for all years, and if it wasn't steel, it was braided/armored fuel lines with o-ring seals.

    I would be willing to bet that (improperly installed) inline fuel filters are a leading cause of underhood fires. Just don't tell anyone thats burned their vehicle up that, they might get angry. :)

    In any case, its personal preference, but IMO on a stock-ish vehicle, even somewhat modified, in most cases the benefit isn't worth the risk.
     
  13. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    So I should remove the spring and try it?
     
  14. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    okay I will just stay woith the stock setup. Thanks
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Do you have it setup like I said? Disconnect fuel line, pull everything out of the fuel filter inlet.

    Spring in first, then fuel filter, closed end towards spring. Is that how it is now?
     
  16. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    spring first
    then filter,
    the white plastic in it is a valve, it just prevents back flow, dont worry about it,
    the black rubber is to seal against inside the filter nut housing
    this end of the filter needs to be on line end of the filter housing, the spring is to go into carb first, so youll end up with metal solid end of filter against the spring,
    to keep filter up against inlet of the filter housing, or it will be pointless putting in a filter then,


    check that your secondaries air valve is not open on you

    that will make the carb run fast like that

    it really sounds like you have either choke fast idle cam linkage problem , or secondaries AV problem

    try opening choke all the way/hold the fast idle cam down all the way(have to open throttle a little to let the cam slip by)
    and tighten in the curb idle speed screw(driver side of carb) if the engine wont idle, but also make sure the secondaries AV are shut, push on them to make sure, see if that changes how it runs, if it does then look on linkage for it and find out why thhey are not staying shut,

    something hung up or bent or needing cleaned/adjusted for choke or secondaries AV, its too bad no one near you knows these carbs so they can point out the problem at you, it would only take a few minutes, it sounds like a very minor problem,
     
  17. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    Yep thats how it is...I will take it apart again and make sure nothing was crooked or something.
     
  18. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    If I take a few pictures of my carb, will you beable to tell me what I need to do...these words are just confusing me...like I said in a lot of my posts, I don't know much about engines...sorry :(
     
  19. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    alright this is weeird.
    I pulled everything out again, put the spring back in, then the filter, then the cap thingy. tighten that up, then put the fuel line back on. fired 'er up. Let her idle a bit...then I stepped on the gas trying to get it to 1500RPM again, and it choked, then I played with the gas, then it kept going. The rest of the time when I was sitting there it didn't do that.
    I drove it a bit...still didn't choke. So I went from a coast, and floored it to 4500RPM for 10 feet, and it held up the whole time. Don't know why it isn't doing it anymore.
    Maybe I had the spring in there cock-eyed or something. but its working good again. I will try it in an hour and see if it will choke again.
     
  20. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

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    R72K5,
    here are some pics of my carb... maybe from these you can point out what is what so I understand you better...sorry.:(
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    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
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