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engine problems

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by joshkbomb, Jan 15, 2004.

  1. joshkbomb

    joshkbomb 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, I'm on my last straw (I think I'm going to run out soon). My truck has this problem where if I let go of the gas after it has shifted to second the rpm's drop down and sometimes it dies. Oh, and only when it's fully warmed. It's died on me in stop and go traffic and in the parking lot. It's a stock 87/350 TBI. I've replaced the oxygen sensor, fuel filter, pcv valve, and spark plugs to no avail. I just got it from the mechanic and they couldn't duplicate it and neither could I. It's been a week since I've changed anything and I had it doing it just yesterday and I know it will do it again, as it has for the past 4,000 miles. The only thing I can think that has changed is that I got the wax pellet that drives the valve to the outside air in the air cleaner working. But I don't think that would cause it to die. There are more things that I could change(egr, map sensor, tps) but they are all starting to get into the $50 price range and I don't want to do that unless I know for sure they're not working.

    I haven't worried about it too much because I just start it up again and it goes and if it doesn't, I'll find a phone. But tomorrow I'm driving from Boulder to Steamboat and the last thing I need is it dying at 11,000 ft in stop and go traffic at the eisenhower tunnel.

    Sorry for the long post, any help is appreciated.
     
  2. lukebaby1

    lukebaby1 1/2 ton status

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    Fuel Pump, located in fuel tank. Entire module runs about $300.00 /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  3. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    Is there carbon build up around the top of the Throttle body? The Idle air control selonoid gets sludged up and won't idle or Is slow to move. I would try removing that and cleaning it with carb cleaner.
     
  4. joshkbomb

    joshkbomb 1/2 ton status

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    There is some build up around the throttle body. I'm looking at the service manual and it's telling me how to adjust the valve before I put a new one in. Do I really have to do this? Can I just swap a new one in?
     
  5. joshkbomb

    joshkbomb 1/2 ton status

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    I was hoping that it wouldn't come to the fuel pump, my dad had to replace his on an s-10 and labor and all was $550. Due to the cost I think I'll wait until it dies or there is nothing else it could be.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I thought money was an issue?

    If the book tells you how to adjust it, why not do that?

    IAC's DO get sludged up, pulling it an cleaning shouldn't be that big of a chore, short of getting the right socket. Only thing I have to say about this is don't use a crescent wrench! When it slips, it will bust the IAC connector.

    Even if it isn't the ultimate cause, you've hurt nothing by making sure it is working correctly.
     
  7. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    I would just pull it and clean it. Most the time they stick because the shaft gets built up with carbon and stops it from moving. The tip and the seat also will get carbon on it and it won't seal. I have to do this with my 87 every once in awhile.
     

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