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engine smoke on start-up

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 1989blazer, Feb 16, 2004.

  1. 1989blazer

    1989blazer Registered Member

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    So, my engine with 158k miles, smokes on startup. It used to be every 4th or 5th time, now its any time its been sitting longer than an hour. My guess is that the exhaust valve seals are gone. Is it possible or even a good idea to replace the seals with heads on the engine? I know that this is possible in other engines. Compression is even across at about 170 plus/minus 5. Anyone done just a value job with an engine this old? Or is this a slippery slope to a full engine rebuild?

    The engine runs strong and burns a quart every 1500-2000 miles, which I don't mind.
     
  2. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Mine is the same way and has been ever since i bought it, it now has 212k minles on it and smokes at start ups and if you sit and idle too long, after the idle it will smoke alittle when you hit the gas pedal. It's just the valve seals, i would say not just the exhaust though, probably alittle of both sides, just a typical thing from these engines, Heck if you still have good compression, you should be able to get away with replacing the heads with rebuilt units without any problems on the bottom end. As long as you take care of it, don't beat on it all the time, should be fine. Me? i am just going to deal with it until i can get the complete rebuild though, putting in a transmission in today,,yeehaw /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  3. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    ive got the same truck, same problem. if its just at start up i would say wait til your ready to rebuild the whole motor.thats what im planning to do.
     
  4. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    Nah, just your valve seals, those are pretty easy to replace with the right tools. And theres no need to wait to rebuild the whole engine if the rest of the engine runs perfectly fine. I have a engine with very few miles on it and the seals are bad. If you use o-ring type seals it doesn't take long for them to go bad, umbrella type seals will work the best.
     
  5. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    I'm not saying he should just wait to rebuild the whole engine, i am just saying i don't care that mine smokes alittle now and then, as long as it passes emissions where i'm at, and gets me where i need to go, hey if you think about it, it's providing alittle more lubrication to the top end,,, /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  6. 1989blazer

    1989blazer Registered Member

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    Thanks all for the feedback. Sounds like they can be replaced. I'm going to wait for a while though, I'm low on cash since the new tires, exhaust, and ratio change.
     
  7. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Yeah you can actually replace just the valve seals themselves if you have an air compressor, the adapter to fit the spark plug hole and all necessary tools for messin with the heads/valves. Just another option.
     
  8. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    If you dont have a air compressor. You can do it the hillbilly way.
    All you need is 1/4 inch yelow nylon rope and a cheap valve spring compressor. Just pull the spark plug. Make sure the piston it at the bottom of its stroke. Thread the rope down the plug hole till you get a bunch all coiled up inside the cylinder. Leave some hanging out the hole. Rotate engine by hand to TDC till the rope stops it. The rope will be tight agnst the heads and keep the valves from falling out. Whwn seals are replaced pull out the rope and repeat on the next hole. Works great.
     
  9. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Never thought of that redneck way of doin it, and i have done some redneck things that are crazy before too,,interesting /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  10. dave_90_blazer

    dave_90_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    i did valve springs and seals by just bringing each cyl. up to TDC and going at it, i cyl at a time, the valve will hit the top of the piston in about a 1/4 in, and if you do valve seals, they will hold the valve up allowing you to put the locks back in the retainer
     
  11. k5blazier

    k5blazier Registered Member

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    I have never heard of the hill billy way but I like it and it would work like A champ /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  12. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    We had to do a mixture of the two methods on my friends 87 Z28 which has headers on it. Trust me, those things are a huge pain in the ass just to change the plugs on.

    I have a snap-on compression guage set that I took the shrader valve out of, and it just so happens it uses a standard air fitting so I just took the valve out and hooked up my compressor to it and it worked like a charm. Then you'll want a good spring compressor, not that cheap [darn] the part houses sell (the bar thing). I bought one of those and its no good for changing springs, pushes it down at a funny angle and you can't get both locks out.
     
  13. Goober

    Goober 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    All you need is 1/4 inch yelow nylon rope and a cheap valve spring compressor.

    [/ QUOTE ]


    That's the way I've been doing it for years. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif except I use cotton rope. I don't think it really makes a difference but the cotton rope seems to have more "spring action" as it bumps up against the valves.

    But it works great! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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