Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Engine stalls badly when cold

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BayouBlazer88, Nov 12, 2002.

  1. BayouBlazer88

    BayouBlazer88 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2002
    Posts:
    353
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lafayette, LA
    I just finished my head gasket replacement project this weekend on my 88' K5 and finally got it running on Sunday. The truck starts right up and idles fair. But when I put it into Drive and start moving, the engine almost dies when it switches gears, especially from 1st to 2nd. However, after the engine has warmed up to around operating temp, it doesn't do it as bad. However, I still notice a considerable drop in engine RPM when the auto trans changes gears. I know that I need to retighten the rocker arm nuts because a few of the them are still clicking. Could the loose rockers be causing this problem? Could it be that I need new spark plugs? Also, I almost forgot to mention, we checked the timing with a timing light and the timing is about 2-4 degrees off of TDC. Could this also be contributing to the problem? On saturday I'll go ahead and retighten the rocker arms and try to set the timing exactly at TDC as best I can. Hopefully this will fix the problem. Might go ahead and replace the spark plugs while I'm at it. Any suggestions on good spark plugs? I'm thinking of going with the Bosch Platinum +2's or +4's. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. thanks.

    Matt
     
  2. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    So you just replacedthe head gaskets, did you retighten them or do you have the gasket that doesn't need retorquing?
    The rocker arms will change when the gasket compresses so you will need to do that too.
    As for timing, did you have the vaccum on the dist. removed and plugged when you checked the timing. With it disconnected you should have 8-10 depending on age of the engine, the more tired the more advance you want.
    Now if I were you I would check both the compression in each cylinder, and the vaccum at idle and part throttle.
    Those will give you an idea on where to look for a problem.
     
  3. RedneckK5

    RedneckK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2002
    Posts:
    42
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    texas
    your ignition timing does not go to TDC. i think in ia about 8 deg. BeforeTDC. look on your radiator support and it will tell you. if you have a TBI engine you will have to unplug a wire for timing purposes. im not sure of the wire maybee someone else can tell you but it must be unpluged to set timing or the computer will try to adjust timing while you are trying to set it. you will be pissin in the wind. good luck man
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    OOPs sorry, I didn't look to see he had an 88.
    There is a plug under the dash that you have to short out to cancel the electronic advance. Then you check the timing.
     
  5. BayouBlazer88

    BayouBlazer88 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2002
    Posts:
    353
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lafayette, LA
    I used Felpro headgaskets and I'm not sure if they require retightening or not. Should I go ahead and retorque them just to be on the safe side? As for the vacuum on the distributor, I'm not quite sure what you're talking about. I know there is a rubber hose that goes into the intake manifold right next to the distributor, but no hoses going directly into the distributor. I'm guessing thats the vacuum line. Speaking of which, those hoses are pretty badly dry-rotted. I'll go ahead and change all those hoses this weekend as well as recheck the timing. Also, where do I look to find what the normal timing is? And as for the plug that I need to pull to cancel the electronic advance, where exactly is it? Is it somewhere around the fuse box?thanks guys.

    Matt
     
  6. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    An 88 does not have vacuum advance on the distributor (that's why there is no hoses going to it). I just did the head gaskets on NoAngel's 88, and the wire you are looking for is a tan wire with a black stripe (if memory serves me) and hers was taped to the large harness up near the master cylinder on the engine compartment side of the firewall. I think they changed the location in later years. You unplug the connector. Start motor and use a timing light to set it to 0 degrees. When you plug the connector back in, the ECM automatically controls advance/retard.
     
  7. BayouBlazer88

    BayouBlazer88 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2002
    Posts:
    353
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lafayette, LA
    Ok I got it. That helps out a lot. I have one question though, which may sound pretty stupid. But what is the best way to set the timing to zero once you found how many degrees it is off? The reason I'm asking is that I know its pretty hard to get right on the mark just by turning the distributor itself until it is at TDC.
     

Share This Page