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engine swap, noob questions

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 78Suburban, Dec 1, 2005.

?

The Dizzy, to pull or not to pull, that is the question.

  1. Pull it

    11 vote(s)
    64.7%
  2. pull the cap

    3 vote(s)
    17.6%
  3. leave it and be careful

    1 vote(s)
    5.9%
  4. I'm bored

    2 vote(s)
    11.8%
  1. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I'm gonna pull the rad, just to be safe. When I disconnect the auto tranny cooler lines, will it loose much ATF? when I reconnect them, will it leave some sort of air pockets in the lines/cooler?
    When I disconnect the power steering pump, and reconnect it, will it have to be bled somehow?
    Oh yeah, I threw in a poll to, because everyone love a poll :wink1:
     
  2. neverendingproject

    neverendingproject 1/2 ton status

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    You shouldnt lose much fliud, just what in the cooler. After that, just hook it all back up and drive it like you stole it. :D
     
  3. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I heard that :p:
     
  4. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    You will lose lots of fluids....Some ATF, some coolant, PS fluid....there will be a big mess under and around the truck. Be prepared for that, cuz rolling in it aint no fun.
     
  5. neverendingproject

    neverendingproject 1/2 ton status

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    Other than coolant, I never had much of a problem if i let the machine sit for an hor or so, unhook everyhting and either plug em or tie em up higher then the reservoir of fluid. But you will want a towel to clean up small messes.

    Just my experiences. :dunno:
     
  6. d'cheat

    d'cheat Registered Member

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    Pull that radiator with out a question!
    The tranny will not leak much fluid, and you needent worry about air bubbles. They system will bleed that out once the truck is running.
    If you have the factory oil cooler, thoes lines will leak plenty. Not a hell of a lot you can do about that. And your power steering will pis out everything thats in the can. That you will have to bleed when you refill. To bleed the power steering, jack the fron to fhte rig off the ground to where the tires can turn freely. Fill the PS with fluid, and turn the wheel lock to lock about 20 times. Refill the PS and repeat. Continue this untill there are no more air bubbles in the fluid, and it remains level when you turn the wheel lock to lock. Thats it :)

    Word of advice, put lots'o cardbord under your rig when you pull it apart. Once thats full of your trucks juices, pull it out and you have a clean place to work :)
     
  7. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    agreed about watching the mess. when i started pulling my motor apart, i made a huge mess, and had a carpet under my truck (still do) which i can't move (i'm using someone elses garage - it's his decision). so now i have to roll around on soggy carpet in all kinds of crap. sometimes it actually is crap - he let some stray cats live there a while. pretty sure it's entirely revolting to work under my truck right now. oh well. free place to work. :)

    colbystephens.
     
  8. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    You can buy some small rubber caps for the tranny lines; just pop them on as soon as you unhook them.
    I usually unbolt the power steering pump from the block and set it to the side so I don't have to bleed it. Be carefull to keep the cap up, or it will leak.
     
  9. echos

    echos Registered Member

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    the dizzy,,,,,,,,,
    gm hei--- pull the cap
    msd pro billet-- pull the distributor
     
  10. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    I didn't have to pull off the PS pump lines. I just put it on the fender well with the lines still attached. I put the A/C compressor on the passenger side like that, too. You'll lose a couple of quarts of ATF, drain the oil BEFORE you pull the motor. There WILL be coolant in the motor even though you drained it...maybe about a gallon. Rent a PS pulley puller from Auto Zone. They also have the primer attachment you can put on a drill, stick down the distributor hole and prime the motor with oil.

    ALWAYS REPLACE THE PLASTIC COLLAR ON THE OIL PUMP DRIVE!!! You don't want to fry the motor because you didn't replace it...it should come with the oil pump. Make sure you install the flexplate on the flywheel the correct way. If you put it on the wrong way facing out, you'll never hook up the torque converter. Put a good jack with a trans attachment under the trans when pulling the motor. Replace the motor mounts...MUCH easier to do with the motor out and they probably need it anyway. Make sure you reconnect ALL grounds back to the block. Wait to put the exhaust manifolds back on till you get the motor back in. Buy the exhaust doughnut gaskets, they usually don't some come in the gasket kit with a reman motor.


    It's not bad, really. I had mine out, assembled, painted, back in and running in 2 days. Good luck, guy!
     

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