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Engine swap this weekend -- pointers?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by txbartman, Jan 18, 2002.

  1. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, tonight and tomorrow is the time. I am swapping the "enhanced" crate 350 in for the depleted and exhausted 305 starting tonight. Hope to get the 305 pulled tonight leaving all day tomorrow for the install. Only thing going onto the new engine from the old is the OEM q-jet and the handful of sensors (I think there are three on my engine) and the vaccuum valves and delays.

    Anybody have any pointers or gotchas we should watch out for?

    Oh yeah, if you are in the Denton TX area and are interested in helping, assisting, or just observing, drop me a PM. The swap is going to occur at sluggo45acp's aircraft hangar at Denton airport.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  2. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    Don't forget the rod that drives the fuel pump and the other rod that drives the oil pump [​IMG]. Luckily I caught the oil pump one before I started it [​IMG].

    <font color=blue>Answers: $1, Short: $5, Correct: $25, dumb looks are still free.</font color=blue>

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  3. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I already installed a new rod for the fuel pump when I installed the new fuel pump. What rod for the oil pump? Isn't it driven by the bottom of the distributor? I forgot that the one other part getting swapped over is the oil cooler adapter between the block and the filter.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  4. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    The dist actually drives the rod I think, which is connected to the pump.

    90K5
     
  5. k5king

    k5king 1/2 ton status

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    there is a rod between the dist. and the oil pump !! what you need to do is find out if the new oil pump has a collar on it or not,,this is what hold's the rod in place to keep it from flopping round inside that hole.you can tell by trying to install the rod into it,,if it just sits in the groove at the bottom and you can slide it around a lot then there isn't one there,it might even come of the old one when you pull the rod out of the pump.if it does have one onit,, it should be a steel collar..the original ones are plastic and can break after so many years.if the new one has a plastic collar on it(which you won't be able to tell less you pull it off) then i would suggest going to pep boy's or wherever and getting the steel one,it makes a snugger fit and will give you more peace knowing it's there.i've never seen one of the plastic ones break before,,but once again,,it's plastic

    <font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????[​IMG]
    I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!![​IMG]
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  6. k5king

    k5king 1/2 ton status

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    oh yeah,,one good thing to do,,
    prime the motor before you start it so that there is oil on everyhting,,rather than doing it dry and waiting for the oil pump to prime it all.
    this is an easy and neat trick. that rod that you are talking about,,well,,the top of it is just a slot,,what you can do is take an old screwdriver,,bust all of the handle off of it,,and insert it into your 3/8" drill,,slide the screwdriver down into the rod and turn on the drill,,this is running the oil pump and priming everything in the motor.you only need to do it for a minutes or 2,you can pull off the valve cover's and see when the oil starts coming up from the rockers. then just put the valve covers back on,,drop in the dist. and fire it up [​IMG]
    it's just easier on everything doing this when starting it the first time, you don't take the chance of wiping a bearing or somehting because the oil pump didn't prime right or something like that .

    <font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????[​IMG]
    I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!![​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]</font color=green>
     
  7. riz

    riz 3/4 ton status

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    <font color=purple> Just take your time a double check everything before you pull it out ......... Also, be organized with all of the items that came off and have to go back on ......... definately pre-oil as mentioned above, it is a must for a new engine. When you get that done, break in the cam and then break in the entire engine by taking it easy for the first 500 miles while driving different rpm levels during tha time ........... don't keep it at a constant rpm ( like a long highway trip ) until after the break in is complete. All in all, take your time and enjoy the satisfaction that you did it yourself. The hardest part is getting the hood lined up again. Let us know how it goes !

    L8r,
    . Riz . <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</a>

    <font color=purple> monkeys steal my underwear at night
     
  8. riz

    riz 3/4 ton status

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    <font color=purple> Just take your time a double check everything before you pull it out ......... Also, be organized with all of the items that came off and have to go back on ......... definately pre-oil as mentioned above, it is a must for a new engine. When you get that done, break in the cam and then break in the entire engine by taking it easy for the first 500 miles while driving different rpm levels during tha time ........... don't keep it at a constant rpm ( like a long highway trip ) until after the break in is complete. All in all, take your time and enjoy the satisfaction that you did it yourself. The hardest part is getting the hood lined up again. Let us know how it goes !

    L8r,
    . Riz . <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</a>

    <font color=purple> monkeys steal my underwear at night
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Don't forget the ground strap you can't see off the passenger side head to the fire wall. 9/16 wrench. Get you a 2x4 and a couple c-clamps and put it t the frame under the tranny to stabalize it. The top bolts on the bell housing are a peice of cake to get at if you pull the tranny tunnel. Bed tape for a camper shell works great to reseal that cover.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
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  10. woody9

    woody9 1/2 ton status

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  11. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I just dropped in my 350 in my k20. Here's a quick piece of advice. Pre-prime the float bowl with fuel and use a quirt bottle (like air tool oil bottles) to get fuel in the gas line from the carb to the fuel pump. You want it to start up right away. Before turning the engine over, work the throttle linkage and make sure the accelerator pump is squirting fuel. If so, you are good to go.
    If it doesn;t start right away, say within 5 seconds, STOP. You don't want to keep turning over a new engine without it running. Find out what the problem is. You have fuel, OK. Check for 12V at the coil. Hook a compression guage to #1 (or any of them) and make sure it's OK. ground a spark plug and see if it;s firing.
    You have to have FUEL, SPARK, and COMPRESSIOn for it to fire. That's all. My problem when I tried to start mine initially was no spark. I had left out the rotor contact under the coil when I rebuilt the HEI. Dead in the water till I made it right.

    -- Mike

    <font color=blue> Married to a woman who understands the need for <font color=orange>Hugger Orange. [​IMG] <font color=blue>
     

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