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Exhaust ball socket joints

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sandawgk5, Jan 22, 2007.

  1. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    Anybody have any experience with these.
    [​IMG]

    Here is a link.


    I want to use these in my exhaust to allow some movement while I flex and not destroy gaskets. Also it makes installing and removing the system easier as it will be 3 pieces vice 1 piece from manifold to tailpipe.

    Thanks

    Ira
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    These are essentially what the Hedman elite series comes with stock.

    The little bit I've had my setup together and running, they seem great.

    I too wondered about the flex/seal issue, but I don't believe these are a solution to that. If there is movement at the connector (as I see it) there is enough room for leaks. (and noise, and failure, and so on)

    I know that when most people here talk about flex they really mean it, but I'll trumpet the stock exhaust system 'till the cows come home...they are solidly mounted, and very rigid, except the rubber isolators at each point. I think keeping the exhaust solid is a better solution than trying joints that can move. I can't stand the cheap stuff most aftermarket junk is hung with. Plumbers strapping is NOT up to the task. :)

    Perhaps some of the tubing that is actually flexible in a strategic location would be a good compromise, but I'm unsure if most of what you see aftermarket remains flexible, or if you'd have to go more towards the newer OEM flexible stuff.

    For disconnects they are certainly quite handy. For that price though, (and I did look at those before I bought my headers) I'd probably see if anyone offers a header set that meets your criteria with those sockets included.
     
  3. mo

    mo 1/2 ton status

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    I just use a piece of flex pipe on each side of my exhaust, but I'm not too picky about my exhaust since I've had to change it like 5 times in 2 years
     
  4. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    I am essentially using these to make the cat and muffler section removable. I will have a Y pipe that terminates with one of these, my cat and muffler with another one of these joints, and then my tailpipe. By flex I guess I mean movement as the frame flexes which I guess the mounts would do that. I still need to find some hangers but I was leaning towards the solid bar type that mounts in a rubber block. The price is for 4 fittings and hardware it is kinda pricey but I like the no gasket feature. I also am not going to run headers right now due to funds and I need to get the exhaust done before I can smog as my existing is like swiss cheese:D.

    I do appreciate the input though. Any ideas on hanger materials?

    Ira
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I think the newer round metal hangars that you weld to the pipe look pretty good. Looks like most OEM has gone that route. As long as it's got decent rubber where it mounts so it doesn't fail quickly I'd say those are good.

    I just kept mine as original as possible and was able to then use the stock exhaust mounts.
     
  6. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    Mine was not done by a quality shop when the PO had it so mine is kinda screwed:o

    Ira
     
  7. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    I prefer these from SPD, but they are a bit more spendy. The way they go together, when done right, means a self-piloting gasketless joint that comes apart very easily.

    I use parts like these for my flex section(s), only I buy them from a local hot rodder oriented exhaust shop. I put a 3" one in work's turbocharger test stand and I can't count the number of times it's been dull orange to nearly bright red w/o any trouble.

    I was very surprised by a friend's nearly bullet-proof exhaust hangars. Exactly three chain links. One welded to the tube, the far opposite welded or bolted to the frame. Prior to doing that he had torn everything else he & another friend, who is pretty savvy, had thot of.
    The trick to making them work and not rattle is to carefully set them up with tension from the start.
     
  8. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Best hangers!..

    I thought my friends "custom" exhaust hangers were the best looking and most rugged I'd ever seen...he used old connecting rods from junk motors!..added a rubber bushing on the wrist pin end made from fuel line hose,so you could bolt it to the frame without rattles or vibrations,and clamped the big end around the pipes!...got a lot of thumbs up at the car shows!...(and you'll NEVER break them!)...:D
     
  9. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    I dont have any old rods hanging around and I dont think the big end is 3":D.

    I ordered these last night.

    Hangers

    Ira
     
  10. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    Awsome idea. That would look cool.
     
  11. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    big pipes??--get bigger rods!..

    You could use BBC or Caddy connecting rods,they are close to 3" I.D.on the crank end !...anything bigger you'd have to rob from a diesel like a Kenworth!.(I bet those have HUGE main bearings!)..:p:

    My friend found old corvair connecting rods were a perfect 2" I.D.--just right for the pipes on his hot rod...I think 20 people that saw his hangers said they were going to copy his idea!..best part is it uses up otherwise junk rods!..no sense in wasting them...you can come up with some pretty ingenious uses for old junk at the junkyard when your bored!..:crazy:
     

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