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Exhaust manifolds

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by berg76, Mar 29, 2004.

  1. berg76

    berg76 1/2 ton status

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    I need to remove my exhaust tubing. I took a glance earlier at the 3 nuts that hold each side on. Very rusty, guarenteed to break! My question is. Are those bolts in there or are they studs? If they are studs are they replacable or do you have to replace the whole manifold? Im sick of the exhaust leaks...very annoying!!! I need to pull them to weld the leaky connections. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

    Thanks!
    ~Jason
     
  2. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    They are bolt studs, they screw into the flange and also have treads for the nuts, they do sell replacements at your local autoparts store.

    I always soak them in some kind of oil penetrant for awhile, then wiggle them loose, don't try to just break them loosem back and forth till they loosen up.
     
  3. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Normally one would say to soak them in penatrating oil for a few days then carefully unbolt them. Well, I've tried that many times on old exhaust bolts and it doesn't work fer s_hit! Maybe one or two of the six will actually come out but the others will break. So, I say break out the impact and the EZouts...I think it'll go faster if you set out to replace the studs rather than unbolting them...or maybe I'm a dumbass... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Well if they are that rusted in, i would say to replace them anyways, also i would say to try not to break any if at all possible, just makes the job harder when you don't "care" if they break. Anyway, just my opinion, try NOT to break them out, but still replace them with new ones. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You can always try unbolting them after running the engine too...you can't get a torch in there real easily, so engine heat is at least some heat. It works with exhaust manifold to head bolts sometimes.

    More likely than not you will break at least one. (using brass nuts in the future will prevent this problem)

    I am a FIRM believer in just pulling the manifold and as long as some stud is sticking out, using a torch to heat the manifold and pull the stud out. This has NEVER failed me, I'm probably up into the range of 20 times now.

    I have never been a fan of EZ outs, some people get them to work, 75% or so seem to have them fail and break off in the fastener, making life even more difficult than it was in the first place. By design I think they are flawed, the tapered feature of the standard ones means you are expanding the fastener into the threads you are trying to remove it from, which is the exact opposite of what you want to do.
     
  6. berg76

    berg76 1/2 ton status

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    So I got the motor nice and hot. Then I proceeded to remove the nuts. I tried slowly losening and tighening. I basically broke all 3 studs off inside the manifold. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif After drilling I ran a rethreader into the first hole. Somehow I broke the rethreader off inside the hole just like the stud!!!! I had to take a break at that point. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I then used a tap instead to rethread. I screwed the new studs in and they were loose. I used some locktight hold them in place. If that doesnt work, I guess i'll be getting some headers! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif 3 days now and still holding just fine. One good thing about the hole deal was I got to torch weld for the first time. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    ~jason
     
  7. ilikemud

    ilikemud 1/2 ton status

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    eh headers and turn downs! that way if anthing ends up leaking you sure as heck cant hear it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

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