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exploded 10 bolt HELP!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by lowlevel2, Mar 7, 2000.

  1. lowlevel2

    lowlevel2 Registered Member

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    Location:
    columbus ,ohio
    Yes im new,but am a big blazer/sub person.
    fisrt things first. I traded my 86 blazer in on an 89 sub a year ago.... I needed more room :)I know this is a k5 forum but noone seems to post on the sub forum.
    Anyway my 10 bolt (rear) exploded on the way home tonight.and i must say i sucked.my question is-can i replace it w\a 12 bolt easily? like will it bolt up EXACTLYlike the 10 w/out rewelding anything like the shock mounts and stuff like that?And at the same time i need to lift the rear w/a 2" add a leaf (trailmaster).Like all 1\2 ton subs it sags in the rear.why not lift it while i change the axle?Blazers/subs should come at least w/a 12 stock in my opinion.
    I need to get this resolved asap and will be replacing this thing myself because none of my friends will volunteer to help.I need to know the easiest (cheapest way to fix this.I am running 31x10.5 now but soon will be upgrading to 32's. What gear should i run 3.73 or 4.11?Btw i dont go off road much... I drive 40 miles to work everyday and am basically screwed w/out my truck,So if any of you know if this is an easy swap please tell me all that is involved inj doing this.
    I also know if i change my rear gear i need to change my front,but ummm thats gonna have to wait till summer :(
    My sub is an 89 GMC w\350tbi and i think its got a 700 trans(its big)w\over drive,10bolt axles w\3.42 gears:(,241 tranfer case.PLease help because i hate bumming rides off ppl.

    P.S.how you get those u bolts off w\out a torch?

    Yes the 14 bolt sounds great but seems like a mother to install :( and im not sure,but wouldnt i need to goto 16" rims?.........aaaaand that mean more $$(16" tires too)I havent opened the case up yet,but i did drive it about 20 miles clanking :)and after i got home i put it up on jacks stuck it in drive clank ..clank.. bamm..clank.,The umm T/Case was making a squeaking sound:(I ran out of day light before i could really check it....
    This truck has 170,000 miles on it, still all original(Grandpa type truck:))
    Oh yeah and is the 12 bolt yoke the same as the 10, or will i need to get a special yoke?
    sorry about all the questions but i need to know any problems i will run into....
     
  2. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry I can't help with the axle problem, but I do have a couple suggestions for the u-bolts. 1. Attack the nuts and exposed threads with a good-size wirebrush to clean the crud off, then start soaking them with Liquid Wrench or WD-40. Let them sit overnight to penetrate. OR, 2. Clean as above, then light a candle and let it melt some of it's wax. Blow out the flame, then quickly pour the melted wax onto the threads and nuts. Let it sit until the wax is cool to touch, then go after them with your biggest breaker bar and the appropriate socket. I know the wax trick sounds fishy, but it does work. Good luck!

    Semper Maintenance!
     
  3. Yeah it will bolt up, I would go with a 14 Bolt Semi Floater or Full Floater rear !!

    <font color=red>BigBurb<font color=red>[​IMG][​IMG]
     
  4. Andreas

    Andreas 1/2 ton status

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    About upgrading gears: If you have a th700 with OD you should get 4:11´s with the 32" tires. If you change gears in one diff at a time (I assume you change the rear first)disconnect the front driveshaft, atleast thats what I did, just to be sure I didn´t wreck anything in the front driveline, not to mention the T-Case.
    Disconnecting the U bolts/Clampers requires lots of strengh, big tools and, if rust, help from the man upstairs :-)

    Sorry, I have no idea if a 12bolt will fit "bolt-on" in a 10bolts place.

    /Andreas
     
  5. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    Try looking for a 75 or newer truck or blazer. I think production stopped in 80 or 81 for the 12 bolt. In my opinion I would go for the heavier 14 bolt, especially with the size vehicle you have (hey, it's BIG but that's cool!!). One other thing. This exact same thing happend to my buddys 72 blazer. He was driving down the road and all of a sudden BAMM, the pinion lets go through the housing. Sparks fly everywhere, he said it was a sickening sight to see red sparks in his rearview mirror at 1:30 in the morning. HE went to find a used axle, BUT when we took it apart it was a mess. It needed a new carrier, bearings and lots of other stuff. To make a long story short, a junkyard axle may not be the best thing to do. My buddies trip to the yard cost him $1200 in the long run, and that's not including labor (another friend put in the gears after hours at my house). It may be cheaper in the long run to by an axle from boyce (even though it is rebuilt). Just thought I would give you an example of someone elses experiences with axle woes.

    BIGJ

    "quietly praying for an end to suv popularity"
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well as for the gears...go 4.11 with the overdrive it will make the tranny quit hunting on the hwy.
    A 12 from a K5 is a bolt in. The only thing that might be a problem is the drive shaft may be just a hair long with the 12. the 12 has a longer snout. If you can afford it you may want to go with the 14 semi/c. Those were offered in the 3/4 ton subs and they are 6 bolt on the lugs so you not going to run into a problem with you wheels. It was also available with 4.11 from the factory and if you can find a 4.11 even if you have to pay $800 for it it will still be cheaper than the gear change and a 12 bolt. As far as I know the 12 didn't come with a 3.42 ever. The gears most got was 3.08( dime a dozen for those) and 3.73. so any way your going your doing a gear swap to get the front to match. you can usualy pick up a 12 bolt for under $200 if you look. The cheap way over all on this deal (if you got time that is) is to find a truck with a match set of 3.73 (10 or 44 front and 12 rear) axles and you could probably come out for around $500 for both axles and then just looking at the drive shaft mod. 3.73 is still not 4.11 but it is better than 3.42. I run 3.73 on 32's on my K5 and it's not a bad set up but my truck doesn't have overdrive. It will run all day on the hwy without sounding over wound but with you overdrive it may be a good gear..the 4.11 would be a hair better.
    As far as the bolts...well you may get lucky if you live down south. you will have to get a deep well socket. If you live in the rust belt you are going to have to cut them off. If you don't have a torch of a air compressor to run a cut off tool then hit the Home Depot and buy a dremel. You can get a pack of cut off wheels for them and I have had to cut off a U-Bolt with one. it took a few of the discs to do it but it did it and was only about $45. One you have one of these you will not know how you lived without one. So look at it as an investment not an expence. Just becarefull and try to stay out of the line of fire..the discs are brittle and if you bind one it send parts of the disc flying..Eye protection is a must.
    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  7. turbo

    turbo 1/2 ton status

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    My 86 suburban 3/4 has a semi floater 14 but it is 8 lug not 6.
    Last I checked the 1/2 ton 2Wd are 5 lug wheels the 1/2 ton 4x4 are 6 lug and the 3/4 ton and one ton are 8 lug so I don't know where you found 3/4 semi floater 14 bolt with 6 lugs.
     
  8. 89Jimmy

    89Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    A 4 1/2" angle grinder with an .045 thick cutting disc worked great to cut the U-bolts when I swapped mine. Put a '76 front and rear under my '89. (Dana 44 and 12 bolt) Everything fit perfect. Even the brake backing plates were the same, I used the '89 complete brake assemblies on the '76 so I didn't even have to change flex lines. The only change was a trick u-joint in the rear. 12 bolt yoke was slightly wider than the 10 bolt.

    Best of luck,
    John
     
  9. lowlevel2

    lowlevel2 Registered Member

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    I removed theaxle cover today and the ring is destoyed and the spider gear assm. is cracked everywhere.Ive called all the local junkyards but to no avail.it looks like im gonna rebuild or replace the axle entirely w/ another 10 bolt w/4.10 gears.sorry fellas.... but i cant afford the 14 bolt switch out....anyone got the parts i need? i live in culumbus oh.

    89 SUB
    75 CHEVELLE
    76 CUTLASS
     
  10. MICHIGAN BLAZER

    MICHIGAN BLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    by the way 12 bolts did come with 3:42's...i've got one...blew my 10 bolt and replaced it about 2 months ago...luckily a friend had a 70 something 12 bolt w/3:42's....got away with the axle and him helping w/the install for $300

    <font color=red>MICHIGAN BLAZER
    <font color=green>89 Fullsize Blazer
    87 Cherokee
    65 IH Scout
     
  11. KP3100

    KP3100 Registered Member

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    I just blew the rear end out of my Blazer. First off your best bet is to put another 10 bolt in or rebuild your old one. I bought new spider and axle gears from Drivetrain Direct for 200 bucks. About the rims my brother has a 78 w/ a 12 bolt and he's got 15 inch rims. I took my rear end out and rebuilt it in about a day and a half with 2 people. And last answer about your sagging, buy 2 inch blocks for your rear end.
     
  12. KP3100

    KP3100 Registered Member

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    Try DriveTrain Direct they had the spider gears, carrier, cruch pin, and axle gears all for 200 bucks
     
  13. Zack

    Zack 1/2 ton status

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    He (dan, lowlevel) should be good now cuase I sold him my set of D44 and 14 bolt FF with 4.10's this Saturday.. he had to come two states over but what do you expect? Well Dan how'd the install go?

    Zack

    <font color=red>Zack Carlson</font color=red>
    <font color=yellow>Carlson@thestix.net</font color=yellow>
     

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