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extra strong 14 bolt cover?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jimmy88, Sep 22, 2002.

  1. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    Any options out there for less than $75? Something at least 1/8" thick like the front cover.
     
  2. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    I modify the existing ones like is on your truck now. The charge is $45.00. You can see it under whats new on my site. I have beat mine for over a year now and only scratched the paint off of it.
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Cool idea, hadn't thought of that. How did I miss that in Moab? /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif

    I'm putting a vetical piece of steel from top to bottom on the ring gear crown of the cover. Then a brace from side to side, and may plate the lower (2) triangles. I'm building up the lip on the bottom by 0.250 as well. May even do .375 to sink the bolt heads in...
     
  4. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    You make them in chrome right?
     
  5. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    Butch, your diff cover is tempting (glad to see your price is reasonable), but I was hoping somebody made a thick stamped cover. If I can't get a stamped one, I will either re-enforce mine or fab a new one out of 3/16 plate and make it part of the skid plate. Your stuff looks good and I'll keep you in mind when I get tired of doing it myself!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    PS to those who have questioned the need for a skid plate, I ask you, where would you rather see all those scratches and scrapes, on the skid plate or the housing?
     
  6. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    well the scratches wouldn't bother me. that ring/skid plate is awesome could you make one for a 14b SF?
     
  7. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    WOW Jim, that's a neat rockring/skid plate. Someone needs to start fabbing those up! That might tax my skills/time alittle too much. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
     
  8. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry, its custom fit to my shaved housing and its too much like work /forums/images/icons/grin.gif. Maybe Butch can fab you one up, just 5 pieces of steel. Hard part will be making em fit the variations from rear to rear and still keep them real tight to the housing. Shaved, not shaved and how much does the length from the pinion cover to the rear cover vary from rear to rear? I guess to adjust for length you could use an angle like piece that bolts to the pinion bolts and to slots in the skid plate. Anyway, give him a try.

    The scratches and grooves are from 3 times out in the rocks. Most of the wear is on the rear edge and happens when sliding off the rocks. Just think what the edge of the housing would look like in a few years. And at least I can weld up the skid plate when it wears down without all the worries that go with welding on the housing.
     
  9. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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  10. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    And say bye bye to the cover. First trip out after the shave left gear oil dripping and the bottom bolt head ground down. So, you still need a rock ring or something to keep the cover from peeling off and to protect the bottom cover bolts. The skid plate does that, has a flatter surface to slide over the rocks with less chance of getting hung up and protects the bottom pinion bolt as well. I just don't see why people seem down on skid plates for the housings. To each his own.

    BTW I guess nobody makes a thick stamped cover?
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    To prevent that problem, you just trim away the outer edge of the cover so that it doesn't extend past the edge of the housing. Then there isn't anything sticking out to get caught on a rock. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  12. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    Wasn't sticking out, ground the cover on the rear and it was slightly beveled. You could recess it some and that should help but that bottom bolt head is still going to take a pounding. Sooner or later the housing edge has to wear away and your back in the same boat again. Guess it also depends on how much rock crawling you do. It seems most trails around here are nothing but rocks. If your gonna shave and do rocks something like a rock ring would be wise.

    Oh never mind, I must be wrong since it seems everybody else thinks so, but I'm still keeping my skid plate & going to make one for the D60!
     
  13. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    I think the reason that most people dont like putting skid plates under the axle is because they take away a little ground clearance.And for those of us not running huge tires we want all the clearance we can get.My 14 bolt is shaved and I drag it hard sometimes.All it does is take off the paint but not leave any scartches in the housing so Im not worried.I did make a bolt on gaurd to keep the cover safe from being peeled back or being crushed .Its almost .312" thick /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    [​IMG]

    Its not quite this purdy anymore /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  14. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I agree on the rock ring, I just shaved mine until it matched the housing. The 14-bolt is so hugh and strong that protecting a 3/4" thick piece of diff with 3/16" steel seems a little weird and takes away ground clearance is all, didn't mean to knock your work at all, it is one of the best that I have seen just don't think you need one for a 14-bolt.
     
  15. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    didn't mean to knock your work at all, it is one of the best that I have seen

    [/ QUOTE ] No problem, I didn't take it that way and thanks.

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    The 14-bolt is so hugh and strong that protecting a 3/4" thick piece of diff with 3/16" steel seems a little weird and takes away ground clearance

    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif Ok, ok uncle. Just what the h*ll was I thinking? Sacrificing 1/4" of hard shaved ground clearance on the misguided theory that a flat surface would slide slightly better over the rocks than a curvy one? That a chunk of steel might somehow protect the pinion cage and its lower bolt? That a ring of 5/16" steel welded to 3/16" plate might somehow distribute the impact load of a rock on the weakest part of the shaved housing (where the bottom bolt is) when, do to my inadequate driving skills, a rear tire drops off a tall rock? I humbly beg forgiveness and ask if the whole blasphemous skid plate must be turned to slag or can I keep the front mount to protect the pinion cage and turn the rear ring into a rock ring copy? I have seen the light! I promise to buy larger tires to raise the exalted 14 bolt out of the dirt, ahh, rocks. And never again dream up circumstances that could cause it harm. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    BTW heres some picts of my rear bumper in progress. Since I now must question my own judgement, please feel free to point out any problems with it before I take the wrong path, again. Really, hammer away, it'll make for a better finished product.

    Frame mount plate
    [​IMG]

    bumper with clevis mounts (go all the way through the tube &amp; will be welded to the frame mount plates)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    See, I could have saved you some time, I have so many oil leaks that I can just slide over the rocks like the Valdeaz slides through water. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
    As far as the bumper goes it needs to be chrome, looking good on the trail is a must! Serious though, I would cut the frame rails back a bit to get the bumper closer in maybe try to get it up a little higher if the tailgate permits.
     
  17. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    Can't go too much higher, maybe 1/2", and your right gotta hack some more off the frame rails. Want to cut a 2" receiver into the bumper without it sticking out, gonna be tight though. Hope it blends better when the rear quarters go a few rounds with the sawzall. Thanks for the input.
     
  18. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    Ditto on the frame cutting. Dont be scared to lose the tailgate springs they are overated anyway. My frame is cut 4-1/4" which tucks the bumper up close and personal to the gas tank skid plate as well as under the tailgate hinges. Other than that the bumper is sweet. I would cut the quarter panels off and extend your side protection all the way up the length of the side to the the rear wheel well and tie it back diagonally to your bumper just outboard of the frame. I dont know how thick your bumper is, but a standard depth receiver has the pin 2-1/2" to the front side of the pin so if your bumper is no wider than that you can flush mount the receiver and pin it on the inside surface of the bumper. Oh yeah and quit posting pics of nicely fabbed home built bumpers as it is bad for my business /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
     
  19. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Jim,

    Your forgetting most of these guys here live out west and the rocks they see are like pebbles to us. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif I can understand why you put a skid plate on the axle. I thought about doing that on mine but don't see me ever making one. Your rear bumper is looking good. Once you get it sorted out I'll have to talk you into making me one. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif I need to get you to join the Krawlers. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     

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