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Extracting broken off bolts in back of block

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mountainexplorer, Feb 2, 2003.

  1. mountainexplorer

    mountainexplorer 1/2 ton status

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    My starter began to bind up on the flywheel on Saturday. When I was underneath, I found that two of the bellhousing-to-block bolts had snapped off.

    Theres no room to get a drill up there (no body lift), so I'm contemplating having to either pull the motor or dropping tranny/t-case. Anyone ever extracted broken off bolts in a block while it was still in? Whats the best way to go about it?

    I'm thinking dropping tranny and using a drill and an easy out is the best/only way. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  2. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    On a related note, will someone explain to me the finer points of extracting a broken bolt from the back of the block (where bellhousing goes) with it sitting on my garage floor?
    I tried using an easy out one time a few years ago and as I remember I just made it worse.
    Seriously, I have it very accessible but I don't want to screw it up worse.
    The bolt does not stick out any from the block or a would have tried pliers, etc.
    -- Mike
     
  3. triger

    triger 1/2 ton status

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    <font color="green">Would you be able to use a 90 degree air drill? I have used that on my F**d but never on a Chevy so not sure of the room but I would think that would work. Just an ideal. Unless you have no access to air? </font color> /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  4. triger

    triger 1/2 ton status

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    <font color="green">Hey TX Mudder what kind of easy outs did you use? I know if you use the cheapy ones from the hardware or auto parts they tend to just strip inside the bolt, but I have a set from Snap on that are amazing and I have been able to get alot of broken rusted bolts out especially with a little heat...another ideal would be, if you could drill a perfectly straight hole into the middle of the bolt you could find a drill bit a size smaller then the bolt and drill it out then try to retap the original threads...I have also done that but very hard to get a perfect hole started, especially with a none flat area...just some ideals...I think the best possibility would be to heat the broken bolt and spray it with penatrating oil, becareful not to start a fire of coarse then try the easy out again...Or maybe someone else will have a better ideal...just some backyard mechanic advice...</font color>

    T
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I'd drill a hole for the EZ-out, then heat the casting around the hole a little. Then insert the EZ-out and it should come out. If you heat the remains of the bolt it will expand and be harder to remove...heat around the bolt and the threaded hole the remains of the bolt is will expand.

    Rene
     
  6. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    I havent tried them, but sears sells some extractors that are a drill and extractor in one. They look like theyd work great. Might be worth looking into. I think they were about $15-20 for a set of 4-5.
     
  7. 4DiggerDan

    4DiggerDan 1/2 ton status

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    Yep... Call your local Snap On rep and get a set of the stright easy outs. They're not a spiral type like you'd see in the hardware store. They're straight with raised up ridges, and a nut that slips over it. They're fricken magic... you want to start by banging a dimple as close to the center of the busted bolt as you can with a center punch (don't be shy, sometimes the impact helps loosen things up,) then enlarge it with a center drill. Then drill in increments of sizes that common sense would dictate ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE BUSTED BOLT RIGHT INTO THE CAST IRON, up to the size of the 3/8" extractor in the set. Then heat up the area AROUND the bolt with a torch until its about 400 degrees F (probably 2-3 minutes of torch time, keep the torch moving the whole time, try not to torch too long in one spot.) Then squirt about 3 blasts of WD40 into the bolt, it'll turn into thick grey smoke if the casting is hot enough and it'll stink like dead fish (old timers call this "waxing a thread") Next you pound in your easy out and back out the bolt. If it doesn't come out with moderate pressure, use more heat. You bust off one of these easy outs and you'll use more four letter explitives than a trucker who just jack knifed tandems in an interstate during rush hour. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif You really do need to do it a few time before you get the hang of it... Don't be shy with the torch. If you try to heat up the casting more once you've got the easy out pounded in, it starts to lose its temper. My average so far is about 120 in 8. I pull out at least 4-5 busted bolts a week out of engines.

    Once your all done run a 3/8"-16 tap in there. At least I'm pretty sure Chevy SB bellhousing bolts are 3/8-16??
     
  8. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    before you start getting nasty try just turning it out with a pick set.
    then step up to a small punch and hammer to turn it out.
    after the head is broken off there should be no tension on the threads so if it isnt rusted or crossthreaded it should come out.
    it definitely will if the assembler used anti sieze compound (yeah likely)
     
  9. limey

    limey 1/2 ton status

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    make sure you dont break that easyout off in the block. they are very hard. i ended up destroying every drill bit i own trying to remove the broken easyout bit
     
  10. ZonkRat

    ZonkRat 1/2 ton status

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    If you're good with welder try welding 5/16 bolt to broke one.This heats the block and works pretty well.If still in truck try to find reversed cut drill bit,this has worked good for me.Otherwise like others said,drill it,heat it,spray it,get good easout.It should come out if you threaten it properly. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. mountainexplorer

    mountainexplorer 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks everyone for the tips. I'll try to get one of those 90 degree angle deals to drill them out...hopefully theres enough room up there to get to them. Its hard enough getting a hand up there or to even see whats going on.

    I suppose I could pull the tranny out (this SM465 jams in 3rd gear once in a while and wont come out until it decides to, and 4th gear synchros seem a bit worn). I just hate the thought of pulling this thing apart again. I just put it all together a year ago.
     
  12. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Before trying to drill it I would strongly suggest you do the nut welding idea.
    It's the fastest easiest and it even works if the piece is recessed up to 1/8".
     
  13. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Am I missing something? If the thing is recessed 1/8" how can you weld a head to it when the head would cover the broken bolt? You couldn't get the welding rod-tig-mig in there.
     
  14. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I did that many times, you get a nut with the hole smaller than the bolt size, and you start by putting a few spot welds in the middle of the bolt, and then you put the nut on and you fill the hole.
    1/8" is the limit.
    With a 1/4" resess I tried but the welds spread on to the outside threads and damaged them.
    You have to be delicate but it's less dangerous than breaking an easy out in there.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  15. 4DiggerDan

    4DiggerDan 1/2 ton status

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    I usually save the TIG trick for busted off easy outs.

    Those straight serrated Snap On easy outs will come out of a busted bolt if you crunch down on the end of it with vice grips, then heat up the bolt, and whack the hell out of the vice grips with the Universal Ford Tool (IE a really big hammer.)

    Never tried welding a nut on it... Used bolts before.. I'll have to try that pretty quick. What happens when you lean on the nut hard enough to round off the corners? I bet you say a few four letter words, huh??
     
  16. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Well when you weld on it most of the times it loosens up, be it rust or whatever. That has been my experience so far.
    And I have extracted a broken easy out before, I drilled tiny wholes around it (1/64") and hit it side ways from all sides with a small punch untill it popped out.
     

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