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factory roll bar effectiveness

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Oblin Goblin, Jan 21, 2001.

  1. Oblin Goblin

    Oblin Goblin 1/2 ton status

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    How well does the roll bar behind the front seats in the '81 and up blazers work? Will it protect me and my back seat passengers in a bad rollover? After I almost rolled over a month ago my dad suggested putting an after market rollbar behind the front seats. If the factory one is effective enough I'd rather not have one taking up all the space.
    thanks
     
  2. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    im not sure what year they started putting in the factory roll bar but my 77 has one so it is not only 81 and up.
    in a (bad) roll it wont help much dont get me wrong it will help but only in a minor rollover but i would get a second one like your dad said if you feal you will rollover. i will be putting one in mine soon


    s.smith 77blazer lookin 4 mud
     
  3. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Are you talking about the reinforced steel factory integrated rollbar? If so, it most likely(sp?) wont protect back seat passengers at all. I would get a 'cage that is attached to frame for the ultimate protection.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. 1990K5

    1990K5 1/2 ton status

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    yes it will help you in a bad roll over those years blazers also have a decent integral roll bar in the cab, you should consider coming off the factory roll bar forward to the windsheild and down to the floor for extra strength.
     
  5. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    It all depends on what you call a bad roll over. The rollbars that are attached to the floor is only as strong as the sheet metal it's attached to if you look at the "Green Blazer" Stephen told me the rollbar and the nerfs are attached to the frame and gives them extra support.

    C'moe

    <font color=black>the blazer is "Back in Black"
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    It's better than nothing but if your truck is a rust bucket you need to add support from the bottom in some way. While to the frame is the best it is very hard to do. If nothing else you need a very large foot to disribute the load across a large section of floor. something like 6x6 inch plates. You need to hit the floor as close as you can to a cab mount. If possible stradle the cab mount if you not going to the frame. You also need some kicker legs that will keep it upright in the event of a roll over that tries to push it foward or back. I personaly don't feel that to the top of the fender wells is the best pleace for these. The floor as far back as you can get so you can take advantage of the tail pan will be much sturdier than the fender well. Going back that far it only makes sence to make a full cage over the rear of the truck.
    Front legs is also a advantage but a trade off. They take up room around the head and make entry a little more difficult. If you wheel hard core then it's a good trade off for the safty. If you stay mostly on the street your always smacking your knuckles on them when using the window cranks if you don't have power windows. they are in the way of the parking brake. They make it just about impossible to remove the dash pad. On my 75 to get a reasonable amount of room for the window cranks it just clears the the glove box door. Toss the visors in the trash. With a properly placed cross bar they are in the way.
    On my 75 it has the front legs (or will soon...they are made but not in yet) but it's a trail truck not a daily driver. It is also a full convertable top unlike your 81. My wifes 79 is probably getting a rear cage to protect my daughters since I know the fiberglass is worthless. Since it isn't a trail truck I feel the trade off where it encroches on the front room is not worth it and since it has the factory steel roof it is not needed as much as my full convertable 75. Yeah I feel it's worth it for safety but you need to decide how safe you want to go. If you do go to the frame you need to bolt not weld. You need to put a bushing somewhere or your going to get a lot of road noise in the truck and have issues with pulling the body appart. The frame moves different from the body and you got to accomidate that movement. If you don't want that movement then you need to box the frame to take the flex out.


    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  7. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Hey Grim, do you have any pics of your 'cage??

    Murphy's Law :
    "When you don't know what your doing, do it neatly."
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I took a couple but I havn't developed the film yet. Hope to get the film developed this week. I'll put the pics up on my site when I get them scanned.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     

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