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Factory U-Joints??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Stoopalini, Aug 29, 2001.

  1. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    I'm in the process of moving everything from the nuckles out on a 3/4 ton corp 10 bolt over to a D44.

    Last night, I was trying to get the axle shaft out of the corp 10 bolt. I removed the nuts that hold the nuckle on, but couldn't get it out because the axle shaft is preventing it.

    So I go to seperate the inner shaft fom the outter shaft, but I can't get the darn U-Joints to free up.
    I've replaced countless U-Joints before, just never a front one from a 4x4. Is there some sort of trick to getting them out? I was very tempted to fire up the torch and just cut them out (I had used it to remove the steering arm, so it was ready to go anyway) but figured there just must be something I am missing here. It was late, and I was tired, so I called it a night.

    I looked and looked, but didn't see the usual internal c-clip to remove the caps. Any help is appreciated!

    Thomas.

    BTW: I think these are the OEM U-Joints if that makes a difference.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    <a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Did you pull the bearing hub/spindle off?(the piece held on by 6 bolts that the wheel bearing ride on)

    Once you take this off the axle will slide out through the opening in the knuckle. You have to make sure the knuckle/wheel is straight or sometime they wont come out.

    Mike

    <font color=green>"It's like a sore dick deal, You cant beat it!"</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>www.geocities.com/emmettology101</a>
     
  3. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Yea, I pulled the spindle and backing plate completely off.

    Huh, so the axle shafts will slide right out through the opening in the nuckle? I thought about that at first, but it didn't seem to fit through. I probably didn't have it straight enough like you said.

    Thanks for the info, I'll check it out when I get home tonight.

    Thomas.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    <a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
     
  4. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Ya they just pull out. Is the u-joint still together or is it broken? If it is broken, it may take some manuvering to get it out... Also, if the u-joint borke, it may have bent a shaft ear and that will stop it from coming out.

    Mike

    <font color=green>"It's like a sore dick deal, You cant beat it!"</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>www.geocities.com/emmettology101</a>
     
  5. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    na, none of them are broken.

    Once I get the shafts out, will I then be able to see the clips that hold the caps in? I looked and looked, but couldn't see any internal, or external c-clips that I normally look for on a U-Joint.

    Thomas.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    <a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
     
  6. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I have never dealt with factory joints. You should be able to see the clips and they should be the internal C-clips on the joint side. But I think I remember seeing somewhere that the factory may have used a different method to hold them in. Not sure though on factory joints.

    Mike

    <font color=green>"It's like a sore dick deal, You cant beat it!"</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>www.geocities.com/emmettology101</a>
     
  7. bee32

    bee32 1/2 ton status

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    Iused a press on my u-joints the first time and a hammer on the second. I don't beleive that the factory ones had c-clips. Start to press ( or beat) once it moves a hair look for internals. If none there then continue on. Hope it works I hated doing that. I also changed the ball joint since I was there. That was the real fun let me tell you.
    Brian

    Brian
    83 K-5 4" on 33's
     
  8. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Thomas..
    How far did you get?
    The grinder you let me borrow is awesome.. I have one side just about right.. so now my tire's finally rotate..
    The wheel disinegrated.. so i'm going to buy a few more..
    Thanks again..
    Almost there.. now we need to get your's done..
    I did have to end up grinding the caliper along with the backing plate btw..

    I haven't failed, I've found 10,000 ways that don't work. www.rocko.rockcrawler.com
     
  9. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Emmett is right, the axle shafts just slide out after you remove everything. Boy, let me tell you, removing the factory Ujoints is HARD, even with your 12ton press (I think I remember you said you had one), it is a pain. I'm trying to remember, but I don't think there were C-Clips on the steering Ujoints. I can't remember though, But I don't think there were.
    Boss

    Pic of my truck Before N' After
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter</a>
     
  10. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Yea, I got that 12 tonner, but it's sounding more and more like a job for my little friend Acedaline! [​IMG]

    Or, I can just leave them on there and sell them like that? I can't use them anyway.
    I was just going to seperate them to get the shafts out; but now I know I don't have to do that [​IMG]

    I already screwed one of the joints up by trying to find an internal c-clip, so I'll take a look at it when I get the D44 completed. Time better spent on getting the truck back into 4-wheel .....

    Thanks guys,

    Thomas.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    <a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
     
  11. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    The factory u-joints are held in by molten plastic when you replace them you do so with c-clip type....look around the edges of the u-joins there are really small holes....heat those up and the plastic will ooze out and then press them out.....by the way watch out sometimes the plastic shoots out when heating....if i ran across factory ones again i'd wear safety goggles...i thought they were joking but I seriously almost lost an eye when one decided to shoot out instead of ooze...good luck and be careful

    1985 GMC C-10 Shortbed
    1984 Chevy K-5 Blazer
    1982 Chevy C-10 Longbed
     
  12. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Bowtie nailed it right on. The factory joints use the internal plastic stuff. And man are they a b1tch to get out! I went through the same fun when removing the factory ones form my driveshaft. I did it by using a 1 1/4 socket underneath the ear, a 5/8 socket on the top cap and beat the heck out of it with a 3lb sledge. Took me about 20 minutes per joint to break loose! If you can heat the stuff, go for it. It will save you a lot of bruises and time.

    However, unless you want to replace the joints, why remove them? Get everything straight and the shaft will pull right out (after removing the axle shaft c-clip in the diff, which I am sure you have done). Then, do your work on the knuckle with the shaft out of the way. Getting the joint out while still in the axle housing could be difficult no matter how you do it.

    And, if you don't need those shafts anymore and you don't screw up the joints, I may be willing to buy them from you. If they are 28 splines, I am always keeping an eye out for spares.

    Brian
    Click to see <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com> My 85 Jimmy </a>
    Who put a stop payment on my reality check?!?
     
  13. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Great! Thanks guys. I knew the torch was the way to go [​IMG] ... hehehe

    Yea, since I can get them out without seperating them, I'm not going to worry about it.
    I already had someone from CK5 ask me to sell the shafts when I am done, but he only wants them if they're 30 spline.

    I'll count the teeth tonight and if they're 28, they're yours. I'll let ya know tomorrow.

    Thanks again guys, I know I can always count on CK5 to get me past these frustrating tasks [​IMG]

    Thomas.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    <a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
     
  14. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    a little propane plumbers torch is better than the acetylene torch for melting the plastic as it wont get hot enough to destroy the parts.
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    IMO, if the joints aren't shot, don't replace them. Factory joints are unbeatable in the strength department. May be a pain to remove, but if rear ones last 100K+ without replacement, fronts should last the life of the truck! (of course thats with normal usage, which I think most trucks here see more than "normal" hehe)

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  16. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, on that note, here's my question...

    My truck has 240,000 miles on it. During that time, it has not seen any real tough off-roading (just getting ready to now). I have 35" tires and recently installed 4.56 gears with a Detroit up front. I am concerned about my u-joints. People say that is my weak link. If I break a factory one on the trail, it seems to me it would be very difficult to replace on the trail. If I replace them now with c-clip style u-joints, trail fixes would be much easier. Right?

    With that said, would you still not recommend replacing them until I have problems? ANother thing I have considered is to carry around another set of axle shafts with u-joints. Hence, if it breaks on the trail, I replace the whole shaft and deal with the joint later. But, pulling the shaft adds dealing with opening the diff on the trail to get to the c-clip on the shaft.

    Your opinion?

    Brian
    Click to see <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com> My 85 Jimmy </a>
    Who put a stop payment on my reality check?!?
     
  17. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hmm. Have to wait for some folks that have broken factory u-joints on the trail. Aftermarket joints are no bigger, so unless they are a better metal/design, not sure how the factory ones could be considered the weak link. If you mean weak link as in the u-joints are going to be the first to fail no matter what, then again, thats a question for someone who has had to change them on the trail.

    My opinion? Run them until you break one, swap it on the trail, and thats the point you know you need to change the other one, when you are back home : ) Either way you are going to have to pull the axleshafts, just a little bit more convenient at your house, but just the same amount of work.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  18. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    What C-Clip's ? Where ?
    Hummmmmmmmmmmmm
     
  19. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    replace them now with REAL Spicer 5-297X
    the factory ones are truly junk by now
     
  20. BOWTIE

    BOWTIE 1/2 ton status

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    What c-clips are you talking about? The front 10 bolt shouldn't have any just your rear.

    Ric

    <font color=red>"Wheel hard or go home."</font color=red>
    click to see <a target="_blank" href=http://www.off-road.ws/images/users/BOWTIE/bowtie5.jpg> BOWTIE</a>
     

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