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Fellow horsepower fanatics. . .

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BowtieRed, Nov 24, 2003.

  1. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    I'm about to start modifying that wonderful block of mine. I have about $500-600 to spend on it. I just want some second opinions.
    Right now I'm looking at:
    Comp Cams Xtreme energy 290 grind (glad i don't have that darn torque converter to deal with anymore )
    Lifters that come with Cam kit
    Edelbrock Torker II Intake Manifold
    Harland Sharp Roller rockers
    ??Valve Springs??

    Now i have two questions. What valve springs should i get? and with my engine (GM performance parts 350 (260hp/350tq)) can i run 1.6 ratio rockers and not worry about piston/valve clearance?

    Any other ways ya'll'd spend your $600?
    I'm building this motor specifiically to turn high RPM and get large HP numbers. NOT concerned with low end torque. I really want this motor to sound cammed out and am not worried about a rough idle. Not buying another carb yet either.
    Thanks,
    Henry
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Check with the tech folks at Comp Cams. They can provide a part number for the valve springs that you need. They should also know if the cam lift (which is probably much higher than stock) will work with 1.6:1 ratio rockers. With that much cam and the right springs, the engine will only be limited by how much air the heads can flow. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  3. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    So when are you gonna update the heads????

    A cam sporting that much lift should use the valve springs suggested in the catalogue.

    Not trying to be a smartass, but if you have to ask about whether or not you should check piston to valve clearance, then something is amiss....

    Ya gonna increase the compression ratio too?

    I really dislike it when parts are just thrown at a motor without regard to how the whole picture works.

    Save the 600. and work towards a purpose built 377....
     
  4. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    next mod will be transferring those parts onto some nicely ported L98 heads. but that must wait until spring. those mods, D60, heads, 46s. that's my current order of business. some small stuff inbetween. . . like gears and SYE/driveshaft that's bout to happen in a week or so /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  5. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    So when are you gonna update the heads????

    A cam sporting that much lift should use the valve springs suggested in the catalogue.

    Not trying to be a smartass, but if you have to ask about whether or not you should check piston to valve clearance, then something is amiss....

    Ya gonna increase the compression ratio too?

    I really dislike it when parts are just thrown at a motor without regard to how the whole picture works.

    Save the 600. and work towards a purpose built 377....

    [/ QUOTE ]
    understandle. but that is not the case. this motor is being built. these are just the 600 first dollars. my final plan is a 355 with h-beam rods, forged crank, L98 heads, same cam, forged 10:1 pistons, edelbrock 800 AVS carb, full length headers, large sump oil pan, hardened pushrods, gear drive timing, 11mm wire, full new ignition, and if the 10:1 pistons fall through then it'll be more like 8:1 and a nice 10-71 or 420 megablower will sit atop the engine. i'm not just randomly throwing parts at the engine here.
     
  6. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Comp Cams Xtreme energy 290 grind

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Comp Cams offers the Magnum 290H or the Xtreme Energy 294H. Which one are you looking at? Comp Cams lists the recommended valve springs in their catalog here for each cam.

    To determine the valve lift you would have with 1.6 ratio rockers, divide the advertised valve lift by 1.5 and then multiply by 1.6. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I would also suggest a different intake. The Torker II's are worthless IMO. I would recommend a Performer RPM. You probably don't have the heads for a Victor Jr. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    If you are looking for sustained high RPM blasts, you need to start thinking about good heads (like AFR's), a steel crank, forged pistons, balanced rotating assembly etc. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  7. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    My apologies....I would start with the bottom end then....Of you spit out a rod, then that nice camshaft will probably go bye bye too....
     
  8. Stroked72Blazer

    Stroked72Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I'm building this motor specifiically to turn high RPM and get large HP numbers. NOT concerned with low end torque. I really want this motor to sound cammed out

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Uh..... high RPM's and 46" tires. Man that things going to be a dog with no low end torque. Sounds like your building a highway 4x4 not an offroad vehicle. Or I could be wrong and your building a mud bog racer. Either way I would start with headers, intake then beef up the lower end to build real power.
     
  9. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    Having an sm465 with 4.88s will make the torque for him /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  10. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    My apologies....I would start with the bottom end then....Of you spit out a rod, then that nice camshaft will probably go bye bye too....

    [/ QUOTE ]
    and the block and the crank and the heads and and and...........
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Having an sm465 with 4.88s will make the torque for him /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yeah, probably enough torque to trash his D44 in a hurry.

    If I had a truck with that much lift, 39" Mickeys, and a D44, and a perfectly good running crate motor, I'd be looking at either things to reduce power, not add power, and a D60 before anything else. Then I would get better (not necessarily bigger, but better tread pattern) tires. I'd leave all that high RPM crap for a racecar or something.

    High RPM motor + big tires + small axles = Gutless on the street, breakage in the mud, and worthless on the trail
     
  12. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    I'm on the right coast. . . no rocks /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif So mud it is for the most part. As for the D60 and bottom end- it will come. i have my 14FF taken care of, so i don't have small axleS. just one /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I do need a 60. It's being search out now, but it's too much to get with what i got to work with (this will all likely be a xmas present). Here's what i figure- i have to break the cam in, and during that time i can't give her hell. in that time i'll save up for a forged crank, pistons, and rods. THEN i'll have some L98 heads ported to the max and get some real nice valve springs. I do run mud, and mud is all about clearance and horsepower and tread. I like the tread of a baja claw, i definitely like the size, and i admit it, there will be something nice aobut being the biggest around. but that's not my only motive. if it was i'd get 49s, but they don't look good for mud and would probably tear my 14FF up.

    I am open to other suggestions as to how i can safely obtain the most horsepower for my FIRST $600.

    Also- i got a 10b, not a 44.
     
  13. slimlynn1

    slimlynn1 1/2 ton status

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    Why not save up all the money and do it all at once. That way you won't have to build the engine twice.
     
  14. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    being 16, that's impossible. i'd be saving for years. i build a little at a time. if my combination isn't going to work, fine- i don't klnow everything, all i'm asking is what i SHOULD do to achieve the MOST horsepower my engine can SAFELY handle right now with $600. i also thought about a 268 cam. this is NOT a deciding factor if i get it or not, just a question- is 268 enough to make a engine sound 'cammed out' just curious.
     
  15. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I'd use that $600.00 to buy a rebuildable engine if you haven't already, that way you can still drive the truck with the motor thats in it while you build a monster. Think stroker kit with steel crank. Build that bottom end to handle more then it'll make for durablity. Make sure your pistons are right for what cc heads you'll be using. I'm a firm beliver in high compression motors !!!! But with pump gas, I'd try to stay around 10 to 1. Comp cams is a great company. Call them and tell them what you want. I like Jeg's becouse they will cut you a deal on larger orders, save you a few bucks. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I have the comp 268H in my 406. It is pretty noticable at idle and makes good power all the way up to 5,200RPM. I am going to go 1:6 rockers so it will really lobe at idle and breath better with AFR heads. I think the 268H is a very good cam.
     
  17. the cork

    the cork 1/2 ton status

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    this thread is starting to sound like a (how do i beef up a dana 44) if you start with a stock big block,you probably
    wouldnt need a stroker kit, and even the two bolt main block would be enough, and the heads could be made to flow
    good enough, stick a thousand on this and a thousand on that and your barely surpassing a stock big block if at all, id rather have the low end grunt plus you can have
    a good midrange, /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  18. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    just cause high horsepower in mud is nice doesn't mean torque isn't too. When you get bogged down and in some thick stuff that horsepower won't help much if you can get some wheel speed and get to it, aka if you don't have torque. And if you are talking about the XE294 cam, I definetally say GO SMALLER, comp lists it as a bracket race, 3000 stall cam. You better have one heck of a bottom end and balance job on that 355 to be spinning out the 7000 rpm powerband. My 355 tachs 6k or so with forged crank, stock rods, speed pro hyper pistons. Heads ported to the max aren't always a good idea. Everyone thinks that if you port to the max you will make the most power, where in reality with that cam I don't see you maxing out the potential of those full ported heads. Meaning maybe back the port job down a few notches along with the cam and you will be happy. I hope you realie what you are getting into, I spent almost 2k on my 355 and all I really bought was, pistons, .030 over bore, rebuild kit, and RV cam. Motor had the forged crank.
     
  19. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    My $.02:

    Edelbrock RPM Air-gap.
    Headers and exhaust.
    Best bang for buck out there

    Dont spend money putting new springs on a set of heads you don't plan on keeping.
    Don't put a cam in a block you don't plan on keeping.

    Depending on what springs you get (which should be decided by the cam manufacturer, not some know-it-all on here) and their pressures you might need new valves.

    Roller cams are the only cams that I would consider swapping from block to block based on what I've heard. A flat tappet cam develops a wear pattern and could get screwed up if you switch lifters around or put the cam in a different block.

    Spend your $600 on nitrous for your truck and build a complete motor all at once later when you can afford to, not $100 worth of parts at a time.

    Or buy a crate motor.
     
  20. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    DON'T DO IT! IMHO as hard as it may be, save your money until you can afford the entire engine. You will be a lot happier with the end result and probably save money if you do it all at once. If you have to spend money, do it on the other things you need, and wait on the engine.

    Also, find a good engine builder that understands what you are going to use the engine for.
     

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