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Fiberglass patching or new Windshield frame???

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 77blazin, Nov 26, 2002.

  1. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    Hi Guys & Gals
    Got a question for you all.
    My project 78 had come to a halt, I have some bad rusted channel to the windshield lower part area, I was thinking of patching with fiberglass, but I could get pieces of another blazer to build a new channel, and also some idiot cut a hole the size of a moonroof above the front seat area and the top layer of the top is also rusted out, should I just replace the top with a better Top, or should I just replace the top layer that is missing.
    If you are confused about what I'm saying, try and look at your blazer from the outside, then picture the outside top missing and someone cutting a hole in the top.
    This sucks I know but would like to get some advice on what I should do?
    Michael /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. ratlover

    ratlover 1/2 ton status

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    If you just slap fiberflass over rusty metal(the channel) it will continue to rot and you will be left with a bigger hole/mess. I would have to say that what you have on your hands is the bigest PITA there is in body work. There are no replacement panels for that area. You have to cut and hand bend all that. It is a job that sucks bad and takes quite a bit of experience in forming metal to make it come out good. I duno about using the peices off another blazer.....how easy is it to find that stuff over in Hawaii?
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    If you were state side I would say scrap the body and get another tub. Once you get rot up in that area it never goes away and not easy to fix. Where you are I bet there is a serious parts shortage. Hard call and no easy fix here. I'd check the local junkyards any maybee you will luck up and find a 87 up tub. Those tubs were glavanized and would hold up much better to that salt air.
    Ohhh heck you have a 77. 78 up tubs will not be a dirrect swap. If your running a body lift it could be done but the 78 up tubs have a rear seat foot weel and there is going to be an issue with the frame and body hitting in that area.
    Have you thought about going full convertable? LOL I'm sure somebody could scronge up a widshield frame or for that matter you could fix the problem at the base of the windsheild and then go soft top. Can't cut the top till you get a full cage though. need to tie the windsheild header into to the cage to keep the body from folding.
    If you see a guy with a red Cherrokee Jeep with custom black bumpers pretty built up and Gerogia tags the guy's name is Chris. Smack him in the back of the head and tell him it's from the GBR. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
    here is some pictures of the jeep. http://www.gbr4wd.com/profilepages/WalkerChris/WalkerChris.htm
     
  4. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Once you get rot up in that area it never goes away and not easy to fix

    [/ QUOTE ] Why is that Grimmy?

    If the channel isn't rusted through (or maybe even if it is), couldn't he do a POR-15 repair job using the patch stuff they have, then POR -15 the whole channel? Or does it go thru to someplace that can never be reached?
     
  5. ratlover

    ratlover 1/2 ton status

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    The chances of getting all the cancer por'ed so it would stop rusting is bad. Regardless what por says(I have used thier stuff and it is great) but it is still JMO that there will still be furthur corrosion. It will be slowed but still there. And the metal is severly weakened. He dosnt have to worry about the fact that metal and fiberglass move at different rates when the temp changes as much because his climate is fairly stable but still something to think about. There are chances of it cracking paint and such also. I think that his channel is a little to gone to be built up with that por filler but I havent seen his truck or messed with the por filler. This still aint the way to fix things though. Its a bandaid fix IMO. If he wants it to look good for a year or 2 or just look good to sell(very bad thing to do but his choice) it will work but it aint the way to repair it. JMO even though you didnt ask for it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Once you get rot up in that area it never goes away and not easy to fix

    [/ QUOTE ]
    That dosnt sound too good does it /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Gotta get my mind outa the gutter/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
     
  6. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Rat. Would be interesting to see pics and see how bad the rot is
     
  7. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    Ratlover

    You're right about the channel, but pretty much that I am chopping up the 77 blazer and the top part with windshield is still in good to excellent condition, I'm throwing away the 77 windshield and start cutting off the windshield frame, I notice that these were spot welded on by the manfacturer, so hey if they can come off, I could sure study on how they placed it on, when I meant chop the 77, I mean piece by piece, the cab can't be one piece, this is just a project and every part that looks good can be salvaged, so I'm giving it a shot.

    Grimmy
    You're also right about throwing away the cab, there were a couple of blazer in the junkyard, much better condition then mine, but that was four months, no telling if there is another that was brought in, yeah I would love to get my hands on 81-91 cab, I got so much parts for those years, its pityful.
    78-91 have the fold down seats while 73-77 had just regular stand up seats, I understand what you are telling me, but the 76 cab is switching to the 77 frame so that just leaves me two blazers.
    And also when I do see Chris I'll rub him with my banged up escort, don't ask why I drive a "Found On Road Dead" car, I'm still can't believe it's still running.

    Skigirl,
    I'll see what I can do about pics, I never downloaded on a computer, but I'll give it a try.

    Hey, thanks guys for the help, theres got to be a way to fix this problem, I hope I can find a solution or do what Grimmy says "Get another cab"
    Michael /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    77blazin-that would be great. If ya need any help how to download / upload, let us know.
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    The lower windshield frame if in a small area is not a problem but he also siad he has rot up in the roof. Good old salt air is working that truck over bad.
    When they start rotting from the top down you got serious problems. It's not like road salt where you can get rockers and cab mounts dirt cheap. he need roof and inner pannels and they are not avaialble or if they are it will be some big bucks and a LOT of work. When you add the two toghere it's just not worth the effort. You can usualy find a beter tub (atleast stateside) for not much more then the parts would cost and save a lot of work.
     
  10. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    I see. Thanks for the data Grim. Have a little of that going on in my truck (of course) but nothing like what it sounds like for him. Yea, a new cab would be easier!
     
  11. andyzach

    andyzach Registered Member

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    CUT A PICE OF FLAT SHEET METAL 1 INCH WIDER AND LONGER THAN THE WHOLE ON ROOF AND AFTER PREPING METAL SURFACE YOU CAN USE A BODY PANAL EPOXY TO GLUE THE REPAIR OVER THE HOLE. A LOCAL BODY SHOP SHOULD HAVE THE GLUE. I NO YOUR THINKING WHAT THE HELL. BUT IT HOLDS 20X BETTER THAN SPOT WELDS. AND WONT LET MOISTURE GET IN BETWEEN THE TWO PANALS OVER LAP. NO MORE RUST WILL FORM. FOR AROUNT THE WINDOW. CUT OUT ALL OF RUSTED AREA, ANDFORM SOME REPAIR PANALS ON A VICE AND A 1 INCH PIPE. RAP METAL AROUND PIPE TO GET BASIC CURV AND USE VICE TO PUT THE 90 DEGREE BEND TO FORM YOUR WINDOW SEAL'S LIP. YOU WILL HAVE TO USE A HAMMER TO FORM THE PANNALS JUST RIGHT. BUT WHEN THERE DONE YOU CAN EATHE GLUE OR WELD THEM ON. USE A MORE PRICY URATHN BODY FILLER BECOUSE ITS MOISTURE PROOF AND STILL IS FLEXIBLE. USE AN ETCHING PRIMER FIRST. THAN A FILL'N'SAND PRIMER OVER THAT. SAND IT DOWN WITH 400 GRIT PAPER. PAINT IT WITH A BASECOAT CLEARCOUT PAINT. MORE CLEAR THE BETTER. I HAD THE SAME ROT AS YOU DESCRIBED. AND FILLED IN A HOLE WERE A SUN ROOF WAS. ON MY 79 BLAZER. THE EPOXY GLUE HELD FINE AND DID'NT EVEN CRACK OR LET LOOSE AFTER A ROLL OVER. 2 YEARS LATER. THE ROOF GOT WASTED, ALL FOLDED OVER. SO I CUT IT IN HALF TO SEE HOW THE REPAIRS WERE HOLDING UP. NO RUST AND NO CRACKING. I HOPE WHAT I WROTE WILL HELP YOU AND MANY OTHERS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. USED TO WORK FOR A BODY SHOP. YOU CAN USE A SOFT EXPANDING FOAM IN THE ROOF TO ELIMINATE POPING NOISES. DO NOT USE A HARD FOAM LIKE GREAT STUFF. THIS IS A GOOD DAY PROJECT TO REPAR ALL OF THE WHOLES. 2 DAYS TO PREP FOR PAINT. FIBER GLASS IS A BIG NO NO. RIVITS ARE A BIG NO NO. USEING GALVINIZED SHEET METAL WITH THE GLUE ONLY IS A WIZE IDEA BUT DONT EVER WELD GALVENIZED METAL THE FUMES IT CREATS ARE DEADLY.

    ANDY IS THE NAME 86 CHEVY PICKUP 12"LIFT 44'S BBC 396. IS THE GAME. /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  12. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    Grimmy &amp; Ski-Girl
    Okay, I see some opinions here, from what you're telling me, its not worth trying to fix it up, The cab I mean, so all this front work was a waste of time and now I got to start all over again, does anybody know how much a cab weighs without all the junk in it?
    And now the search for a better cab, this will take me a while to find, but I'll find one soon, will the 81-91 blazers fit on a 78 frame?
    Damn! this project will take longer to do than I thought.
    Let me know guys, could use all the help I can get...
    Michael /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  13. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    Grimmy
    I almost forgot, the outer surface is rotted, the inner section is fine, no rot in there, I made sure of it, its just that darn moonroof hole that looks stupid. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
    Michael /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  14. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    77blazin: I don't know that much about this stuff. See andyzach's post for yet another option. Before you scrap the whole cab, why don't you take some pics and post them so everyone can really see the extent of what you're talking about. Then Grimmy and andyzach and other guys who know can see what you're seeing and help you more.
     
  15. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    Ski-girl
    I'm doing the best I can, I'll probably ask my brother which owns Kom-Tek Industries for some help in the downloading, I only have 35mm picture that can be scanned so I hope he can help me out.
    These pictures are a bit old because I didn't start on the project yet and thats how I got the truck before I started working on it.
    So give me a few days and I'm sure I can get some up.
    Thanks for the reply though, I'll wait on looking for a cab, these things are a bich to take of.
    Michael /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  16. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Frame changed in 78. 78-91 will be a bolt on with no modifications.
    Body work is one of those things were if it doesn't bolt on and your not a skilled welder it's usual cost prohibative to mess with. Most of the time (at least state side) it's cheaper to just buy a solid tub and replace it. I'm looking for one for my wifes 79. I have rot in the rockers and some rot in a few odd places. THe paint is bad and by the time I pay for stripers and repair the rot I'll be into it for a good chunk of change and a LOT of time. Using a cab that has paint in good enough shape to paint over would in the long run be a LOT cheaper and a lot less work.
     
  17. andyzach

    andyzach Registered Member

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    its me again i was told the roof panal is only held in by spot welds along windshild lip and top of door opening. back extens down to top's seal lip. if you had the time you could drill all the welds off remove the top completly and use a top removed from a junk truck. even a pick up will work just back lip needs playing with. try calling a gm dealer ask if they can locate a nos crash part./forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     

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