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Finished my steering

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90K5, Dec 20, 2000.

  1. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Well today I finally finished putting the Moog parts on my truck. It would have been a lot easier if I knew I needed a pickle fork at the beginning, but its all good. I didn't do teh balljoints, I'm gonna wait till I have money and pay to get it done. This whole thing helped my understanding of the steering a lot, and I aligned it pretty goo too. It didn't work counting the number of times you turn the components, because I got all 3/4 ton parts, Moog doesn't make all the parts for a 1/2 ton. It drives better, but I'm getting it aligned tomorrow, and I'm sure it will be even better then. I even used grease!!! My old parts were pretty dry... thaks to everyone that helped me.

    90K5
     
  2. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Congrats dude. You chickened out on the ball-joints?!!!! You coulda have done it. Hell, if I did it you can. LOL!!!

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  3. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    What parts did you end up replacing?
     
  4. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    If you want to save yourself the cost of alignment then park your Blazer with the left wheel as straight as possible and you and a buddy use two 4' levels horizontally across your tire just below the center. Measure the distance front and rear between the levels. Make the front measurement 1/16 less than the rear by adjusting the sleeve and you will be set. Caster and camber are not issues with a straight axle aligment. Caster is set by your springs and Camber will not change unless you bend your axle housing, so all you need is the toe in to be correct.

    I thought I was wrong once,
    but I was mistaken
     
  5. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I used to be able to fix the alignment by going over curbs. If it pulled to the left, I'd hit it going like 40 from the left, and it straightened it out. This was on a street where the curbs were not very big, and really sloping. I ended up replacing the tie rod ends and sleeve on the draglink, and the entire tie rod, ends, and sleeve on the long one.

    90K5
     
  6. K5Jimmy

    K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Congratulations...I got faith you could do the ball joints also...I'm sure there are several guys on here who could help supply the appropriate cuss words...good job...I hope it all works out for ya big time...JD
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You can do the job without a pickle fork. You just need a big ball pein hammer. Smack the hell out of the arm holding the tie rod, coming straight in from the side, perpendicular to the tie rod stud. Just a few hard smacks will make the tapered stud jump right out of the hole. You hit the part the tie rod is bolted to, not the tie rod itself. Works every time for me! [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  8. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I tried using two hammers like the Haynes manual said, but it didn't work. BTW, I went to get it aligned yesterday, and when they found out I did the work, they asked me to come talk t othe mabout a job when I turn 18. I got the alignment pretty close actually.

    90K5
     
  9. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I tried using two hammers like the Haynes manual said, but it didn't work. BTW, I went to get it aligned yesterday, and when they found out I did the work, they asked me to come talk to them about a job when I turn 18. I got the alignment pretty close actually.

    90K5
     
  10. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    Don't get truck aligned until you replace ball joints. If they are worn alignment will do no good. It will not stay aligned. Just thoht I'd let you know.
     

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