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first brake job

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by NEK5, Mar 20, 2006.

  1. NEK5

    NEK5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    ok i`m pretty close to doing my first brake job..front pads are getn bad so time for a change..since this is my first time does any one have any tips/tricks/advice/ or even any instructions?:D
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    if all you are doing is pads, it is a simple job. Pull the wheels, wrench out the caliper/slide bolts. pull the caliper off and pull the pads out. use a really large adjustable pliers or a caliper tool to compress the caliper piston(push it back into the caliper body). If you don't do this the caliper won't fit back over the rotor with the new pads. After that, put on the new pads, use some brake lube(any auto parts store has it) on the slide bolts and reinstall the reverse of how you uninstalled. Disc brakes are so easy.

    strongly inspect your rotors. Feel them, if they are really ripply or grooved, replace them or take them to a shop to be cut(either way can be a pain in the butt since the rotors are held to the hubs by the studs, requires removing the lug studs with a press to get the rotors off). A shop with an on-car brake cutter can cut them easily if they are worth cutting(far enough above discard spec). If the rotors are blue or have little spots that are darker than the rest of the rotor or also blue, they should just be flat out replaced(this is heat distortion and damage causing hard spots and likely warping).
     
  3. Hobbs

    Hobbs Registered Member

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    I just did my first. Everything went back together but now I have a pull to one side when braking, that I did not have before.

    Any suggestions?
     
  4. NEK5

    NEK5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    i`m gonna go out on a limb here and maybe say warped rotors?
     
  5. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    warped rotors would cause a pulsation in the pedal.

    the pull could be a collapsed rubber line. that's the most common cause i've come across for a pull.
     
  6. NEK5

    NEK5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    well that was a complete unsuccessful first try at solving someones problem:D
     
  7. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    siezed slides would be my guess. slow to move off the rotor. Did you lube the slide bolts when you did the pads?

    warped rotors would cause a pulsation and not optimal braking(less contact) but I doubt it would cause a sudden pull(something not present before).
     
  8. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    i assumed the sliders were well lubed, since he was advised to do so. but yes, they would cause a pull, or a stick.
     
  9. s1037s

    s1037s Registered Member

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    Most people that do brakes for a living will tell you to do this:

    Brake the bleeder loose, leave the m/c cap on, SLOWLYslowly compress the inner brake pad into the caliper with large channel locks or c-clamp(or buy the correct piston compressor from autozone for 6$) the bleeder is open so the old fluid goes out of the system, not back up into the m/c.Check your pins and slides(new caliper can be pretty cheap depending on the vehicle) Don't crossthread caliper bolt, lube sparingly. Do not put the anti squeal grease on the face of the pad.Some people have made this mistake. take your time and don't forget to retighten your lugs after you drive a few miles. hope this helps
     
  10. s1037s

    s1037s Registered Member

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    It may be that your caliper piston seized on on side, causing it not to work . now that only one side is grabbing, you have the pull. could also be a bad hose.
     
  11. Hobbs

    Hobbs Registered Member

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    ding ding, Right on the button!
    I put anti squeal on the face (part touching the rotor). So what do I do now? It was the first time I used the sh*t. Actually worked though. Probable because that brake does not work any more. :laugh: The pull is away from the brake I "fixed".

    Thanks to all,

    Hobbs.
     
  12. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    its pulling "away" from that side, because the other side is the only one grabbing now, causing it to go that direction, while the greased pad just slips. pull the pads, throw them away, and buy another set. clean the rotor thoroughly with brake parts cleaner, and reinstall.
     
  13. Hobbs

    Hobbs Registered Member

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    10-4.

    Yea I was so proud of myself this weekend thinking I have solved my squeak problem.

    Then today on the way to work I detected the pull and new I had solved the problem by basically disabling the brake.:o Hopefully this thread will stand as a guide to others. Or maybe I am the only mo-ron to do this.

    Live and learn. Sometime the only lessons that stick are the messes you create yourself.

    Thanks to all.

    Hobbs.
     
  14. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    we've all gotta start somewhere man. and ya never know you're doin wrong til you screw something up. dont sweat it, its all part of the learning process, and we've all been through it. welcome to CK5.
     
  15. NEK5

    NEK5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    yep i`ll sure learn from the mistakes i have made:D thats mistake"s"...plural:D
     

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