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First Gen With Rock Sliders

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TONYP, Dec 16, 2002.

  1. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    thinking of putting rock sliders on my truck as the guy I bought it from had fuel cells under the seats and cut part of the cab support out to get them in, he had plates under it so that it was not exposed to the ground but I don't really like the ideal of 15 gals under my as*. So adding sliders would put most of the missing support back.


    Now when you put the sliders in do you only weld them to the cab? I've looked at a wright up and the pics show them welded to the cab and ether bolted or welded to the frame.. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Rock Sliders are over-rated, this is the rockslider modification you need to do on you 1st Gen! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    [image]http://community.webshots.com/photo/53102695/53103037HPtMQS[/image]

    Rob
     
  3. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    your link was bad, you had http twice, but i found it...so it looks like it is coming off the frame, did you weld it to the body or not...
     
  4. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, I cut the rocker off, and removed the doors, welded the front pillar and the rear pillar to the 5 1/2" tube and then back to the frame. I have beat the snot out of this, and have had no issues other than the roll bar flexing enough to crack the window frame, but that's my fault, poor bottie fab design, but WTF, it's a trail beater.

    Rob
     
  5. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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  6. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    that looks great, I think that will work with a slider too, and it give me the opt of not cutting the body...thanks
     
  7. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I did some extreem bracing because of major rust, nothing like Rob's masterpiece.(that thing ROCKS) I did keep the rocker boxes intact however. I welded the main bar to the boxes and body braces, if the upright bars and cross bars were not there the doors would still fit. I only cut as high as the stock rockers were, so the bottom of a stock door would clear it.
    I'm now in the process of fabbing some door skins for some mud protection. The "Mypictures" link has all the pictures. Also check out Steve Burt's pictures, he still has doors and used 3x3 tube in place of the rockers. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I did it too. I only used a single piece of 3x3squaretubing and removed my rusted rockers then welded the tubing to the rockerbox's lip. So far so good....
    Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  9. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    so it has enough strength if you hit it on rocks, If you did it again would you add the tubing so it is out from the truck more?
     
  10. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Yes it is plenty strong for smakin rocks and lifting the truck. I have thought about adding some bent tubing to them for that extended pertection that most everyone is doing. I can see were it would give greater pertection so I may do it. One rock smacked the side of my slider and a few inches higher the rock would have hit sheetmetal for sure. If anything it will provide a step /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. Roostr84

    Roostr84 1/2 ton status

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    So let me get this straight you have gas... under your ass. LOL that sounds funny. Seriously though that tubing in place of the boxes looks pretty stout.. definetly a good alternative.
     
  12. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Having it stick out a little bit further than the body also helps you pivot around objects that otherwise might have hit sheet metal.. unless of course you have rear steer (or make 10 point turns)
     

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