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first mod

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by coolhandluke, Nov 2, 2001.

  1. coolhandluke

    coolhandluke 1/2 ton status

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    what was the first mod you did when you got your K5, what is the first thing you would recommend someone do if they get a pretty much stock blazer?

    sometimes nothing is a real cool hand

    what we have here is a failure to communicate
     
  2. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Ditch the auto locking hubs!!!!! If you have them that is.



    '85 K5 : Run it til it breaks, then fix it and go again!
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The first few months I had my Jimmy all I did was fix stuff. I put headers and dual 3 chamber flowmasters on to relace the bad exhaust, replaced my rear springs because one was bent, new guts in the tailgate and a major tune-up that wasn't finished until I had swapped a better cam into it.[​IMG] My truck was already lifted 4" and on 33's when I got it though.

    My first real mod was getting rid of my 2.73 gears and half ton axles. I found a deal in the local paper for a 14 bolt FF, D44 with 3.73's plus a SM 465/NP205 and both driveshafts for cheap.

    I'd concentrate on making it reliable first. If it already is then take it out and do some mild wheeling in stock form. You'll get a much better idea of what you'd like to do to your truck to make it work better after you've wheeled it a bit. Lockers, lift, and bigger tires are the big three for off-road performance.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  4. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    Check your frame for cracks.My first mod was a weld in frame repair kit and welding up all the other cracks in the frame.

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  5. DuneRunner

    DuneRunner 1/2 ton status

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    A fellow 83er. Welcome to the best site on the web. My first mod was replaceing the stock stering wheel with a GT wheel and anti-theft system. It was not cheep. 2hun bones. But it works. The next mod was to take off the AIR DAM, it gets in the way of aproch and departcher(sp?) angels. But like TRustyK5 said make sure its reliable. Be sure to change all of fluids (tcase, diffs, trans)
    Have fun and remember it dosen't happen over night.
    Late KEN

    P.s. Save the old auto hubs, you never know when you may need to swap.

    DANGIT it's not a bronco!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/kensk5>My Picts</a>
     
  6. coolhandluke

    coolhandluke 1/2 ton status

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    ok, first, what's wrong with the auto locking hubs, are they just weak?

    How much do manual hubs cost, and how hard are they to put in?

    How do you find out your stock gear ratios?

    sometimes nothing is a real cool hand

    what we have here is a failure to communicate
     
  7. fright89

    fright89 1/2 ton status

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    shock mounts and shocks. mounts were cracked. look for cracks in the frame. also took fuel pump out of tank.
     
  8. schwinnd

    schwinnd 1/2 ton status

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    Let's see new radiator, alternator, starter, battery, had a blown head gasket/new gaskets, edelbroke manifold, crappy worn out tilt steering, new non-tilt from junkyard, new rear axel's (after one broke last wednesday) new brakes all around. Just trying to make reliable so I can start modifying it.[​IMG]

    Just collecting rusty mid-70's chevy's
    1976 Blazer, 1975 Vega SW
     
  9. DuneRunner

    DuneRunner 1/2 ton status

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    Shop around, I picked up my Warn Manual HUBS for $70 I think on sale at 4Wheel parts. It is a simple job just need grease and a few screwdrivers and allen wrenches. You do not need a conversion kit if they try to sell you one. You do have a 10 bold front axel?

    I did the swap in about an hour. due to cleaning out old grease and repacking with new. GOOD LUCK

    KEN

    DANGIT it's not a bronco!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/kensk5>My Picts</a>
     
  10. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, the auto hubs are weak and unreliable. They are very easy and cheap to replace, should be able to do it in your driveway in under an hour.

    '85 K5 : Run it til it breaks, then fix it and go again!
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The auto hubs are kinda weak. Most people here that have/had them have had problems with them. Manual hubs are not that expensive and it's supposed to be an easy swap.

    You might check the inside of the glovebox for the build codes for your truck. There will be a ratio code. The problem is if the diff's have ever been swapped, or a ratio already changed that info won't be accurate. I'd recomend pulling the covers off the diff's and getting the numbers directly of the ring and pinion. It's a great time to change the oil in the diff's anyways, especially if the truck is new to you.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  12. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Automatic hubs are weak, but also not necessarily the best for us just because how they operate. Plus, you don't really know if they are locking correctly. Manual hubs are inexepnsive and easy to replace. Took me about 10 minutes per side, but I know those hubs like the back of my hand. Do a search on this site and you will find some detailed info about manual hubs. Nice thing about manuals is the you know when your hub is locked.

    First mods I did were new bumpers. But that's because my bumpers were damaged in an acident. Next was a high amp alternator, but, that's because my factory one was going out. My first mod for fun (not a repair), was a 4" suspension lift. Well, my rear springs were sagging and had to be replaced, so I guess that was a repair, too!

    Have fun and plan out the major stuff you want to do before starting. It sucks to pay $1000 to put lockers and new gears into an axle and then replace the axle 6 months later!

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  13. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    I got 2 like new Warn premium hubs off of a 10 bolt and a long side axle shaft for my D44 for 40$ at a jurd here.

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  14. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    First thing I did was ditch the factory exhaust.

    89 K5 Silverado, 4", 33's, 3/4 ton axles
    <a target="_blank" href=http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com>http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  15. MaxCrack

    MaxCrack 1/2 ton status

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    First thing I did was put on a 4" lift and 35" tires. Twisted the rear drive shaft and upgraded to a one ton. Blew up the rear diff. Replaced it with better gears. Destroyed the front axle. Put a dana 70 in the rear. Currently rebuilding a dana 60 to replace the front axle.

    A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/dana60manual>http://photos.yahoo.com/dana60manual</a>
     
  16. HispanicPanic

    HispanicPanic 1/2 ton status

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    the first thing i can honestly remember spending a big sum of money on was a system for my Jimmy ( i mean i am Hispanic and you know we cant just listen to the stereo we need to bump the stereo [​IMG]) Now that i remember how stupid i was i wouldnt spend that much on a system again the first thing you should do is check saftey first frame cracked, steering box, tie rod ends, ect. one its all good spend your money on a lift and go from there $$$$$$$$$$$ and when you think your all done $$$$$$$$$$$ and again$$$$$$$$$ trust me it never ends

    <font color=purple>I put the Panic in Hispanic</font color=purple>[​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://4x4.alloffroad.com>4x4.alloffroad.com</a>
     
  17. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    Firs thting i did. KN filter... second thing, 4.56 gears, thats all i have now. Next i have to fix my window then im getting some flows... or a ORD steering box brace

    6in 87' K5 w/ 35" BFG muds.
    305/Sm465/ NP208
    Kn, 4.56's.
    next...highflow cat, single inlet dual outlet flowmaster with 4" tips =D
     
  18. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    First thing is base your mods on what you're going to do. Alot of these guys wheel alot and are gonna recommend some bitchin off-road stuff. You might be a pavement pounder like me and not need all of it. I've 3/4 ton springs that gave about a 2" lift and am swapping in 3.73 gears. Thats all I really have in the line of "upgrades". Now I'm just fixing rust and making a kick butt motor.

    Right out of the box though....
    Tune the sucker up!
    K&amp;N Filter
    Complete Fluid and Filter Change
    Grease everything

    yes, i know those aren't really mods but if you just got the thing, don't trust the story of anyone you bought it from.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76</a>
     
  19. OFFRDK5

    OFFRDK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    First mod: Mud bath
    Second mod: Strap
    Thrid mod: BFG M/T Tires
    Fouth mod: Mud bath


    SK-15
    J**P...it's whats for dinner!
    Roads? Where we're going, we don't need any roads!
    If it wasn't for bad luck I would have no luck at all!!
     
  20. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    Reliability first: in my case radiator, decent tires, u-joints, all fluids + some gaskets replaced, battery.
    First upgrade mod: 4.10 gears and a locker for the rear.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://desertrider.net>http://desertrider.net</a>
     

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