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First round of Mods almost done

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by LA91Blazer, May 28, 2001.

  1. LA91Blazer

    LA91Blazer Registered Member

    Joined:
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    Hey!
    Well it's been a long 2 weeks. Here's a recap:
    After removing the gas tank, and spending 2 days grinding off my rear shackle, I found that ORD had sent the wrong bracket kit
    :-(

    Fortunately Steve was in the shop that Sun working on his Blazer. We figured out the problem and he sent out the proper brackets. So I spent the rest of Sunday bolting on my broken springs and ground off brackets so I could roll my rig out of the shop into the parking lot. That was last weekend. Thursday my new parts arrived and I was told that Fri. was my last paid day (seems the company is out of money pending another project). Oh well at least I'll have time to finish the Blazer mod.

    So Friday afternoon I rolled the rig into the shop and started bolting up the new suspension. All the parts went together great. Only had to drill out 2 of the 12 shackle boltholes, and only by a small amount. The greaseable bushing kit went in smooth as ... er grease! When I tried to bolt up the leaf springs found the u-bolts would not fit over the axle! Damn wrong part kit again! This time it was 4WPW, but the are just up the street so no problem. I ended up reusing the old u-bolt, the fit fine. The Rancho 9000's went on with no problem, except I could not mount them inverted with the controls on top.

    Saturday began with installing the rear kilt on the passenger side. Next was the extended break line in the rear. This was also no problem. I bought a vacuum bleeder kit; this made bleeding the breaks a little easier by myself. So all this time the gas tank was hanging in the way because I could not figure out how to disconnect the sending unit. Since I didn't want to break it I just supported it on a rolling dolly and worked around it. I find it amusing that when I am getting ready to bolt the tank back up I found the disconnect for the sending unit tucked up in the frame. Oh well next time I know where to look. The gas tank went back in easier than expected and bolted back on my rear bumper. I could not remount my towing hitch because the new ORD bracket blocks the forward mount hole in the frame. The solution for this will have to wait.

    Sunday was the front end. The first problem I had was no place to attach the high lift to jack up the front. Well after tweaking the left side of my bumper (grumble) I decided on plan B. used the floor jack on the axle and just barley got the height I needed. I started stripping off all the old stuff, tierod, damper, steering arm. It all came off OK, except the steering arm and front spring eye, which needed some serious persuading. Removing the rear shackles was another matter. The passenger side upper shackle bolt could not be remover because the exhaust is in the way. Time for more persuading. After beating the exhaust pipe with a hammer for 10 min I am able to hammer out the bolt. On the Drivers side the shift arm on the tranny was in the way, but this was easily loosened and moved to get the shackle bolt out. So I get setup to replace the break lines so I can drop the axle enough to get the new 6" springs in there. As I'm changing the first line I find that they don't fit!!!! ( AAAARRRRGGGGGGG!!!!) Another wrong kit! The bottom mounting bolt that attaches to the wheel is too big to fit through the break line mounting block. :-( Meanwhile break fluid is going every where. So I bolt up the old lines. It was a pain trying to drop the axle enough to get those springs in without breaking the lines. So as I'm wrestling with this H E A V Y spring by myself, and I find the leaf spring pin stud is larger than the hole in the axle plate. (sigh) The next challenge was trying to get a 1/2" drill motor in there to drill out the hole. I get the hole drilled out, and the rest of the assembly on the passenger side goes together with no further incident. I had to disconnect the break line on the driver side to get the axle low enough to get the springs on. The remainder of the front went together without any problems.

    Monday I bled my front brakes and mounted my steering damper. I adjusted my alignment by eye, centered my steering wheel. After torking everything down I took it around the block. One thing for sure I'm a hell of a lot higher than I was before :-)
    During acceleration and deceleration I get some vibration. Based on other posts here I guess this is the pinion angle at the transfer case. After determining that my transfer case cross brace dose not have the spacers that everyone else seems to have (yes I even checked on top of the frame), I'm going to have to put in my own longer bolts and drop the case.

    What grade bolt should I use to replace the 4 short bolt that are in use now? Can I use nuts as a spacer to drop the transfer case enough to get rid of my vibration?

    Tomorrow I get the new 33" BFG M/T's put on (I may have to wait until I get those break lines swapped out). Then I'll snap and post some pics! :-)

    Thanks for any answers, look for pics tomorrow night.
    Here's the complete list of Mods:
    ORD - 4" shackle flip kit
    ORD - Greaseable bushing kit
    ORD - HD front shackle kit
    ORD - Swaybar disconnect kit (backordered)
    ORD - Bolt on steering brace
    Rancho - RS-9000 shocks (4)
    Rancho - Steering damper (single)
    Superlift - 2" superride springs (rear)
    Superlift - 6" superride springs (front)
    Superlift - Rear u-bolt kit (wrong kit, returned)
    Procomp - Front u-bolt kit
    Procomp - Steering arm
    Procomp - Stainless break line kit
    Rockcrawler - Rockrod HD tierod
    Hi-tech Retreading - 33x12.5x15 BFG M/T $67 each!!!


    BlazingWolf
     
  2. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    WOW!1 problem after another huh?for the case drop i used 1/2"grade 8 bolts and 1x2x1/8"square tube.sounds nice BTW,wheres the pics??

    PURE INSANITY
    86 blazer see it at:<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569>http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569</A>
     
  3. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Abilene, TX
    Great post. It always puckers my butt when I do a project and have nothing but hell, and then read a post about the same thing and they didn't have any problems. Most of my projects are like household plumbing projects, no matter how well I plan it, I am always one trip to the supply house short of completion.

    Derf00
    http://www.derf00.coloradok5.com
    "Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in a more inaccessible place."
     
  4. LA91Blazer

    LA91Blazer Registered Member

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    Thanks Pureinsanity for the bolt grade recomendation!
    I will try to get thoes on today, and the new tiers as well then she should be ready for a photo shoot! I hope I can resolve the break line issue in the next day or so.

    Thanks again!

    BlazingWolf
     
  5. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    Minnesota
    yup grade 8 is the best by far... I know how you feel cause while my lift is going pretty smoothly, my axles when I was building them up was just one hassle after another... anything that can go wrong will... and in the end after everything I might as well bought swome rebuilt ones... oh well live and learn. Can hardly wait to see pics... sounds great!

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  6. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Somebody has been busy....[​IMG]


    <font color=blue>My rig </font color=blue> <A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda>http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda</A>
     
  7. LA91Blazer

    LA91Blazer Registered Member

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    Todays saga -
    I spoke to Steve @ ORD about the procomp breaklines and determined he sent the RIGHT ones. This means somone must have replaces my calipers with older ones at some point in the past. He recomended that I just drill out the banjo so I could get the 7/16 OEM bolt trough. This worked great, the break lines went on with no further problems. I also decided to drop the T-Case today. As some of you may know, I had no spacers on my rig, so I had to fab somthing. I spoke to Steve about it. He said they are working on a HD kit to address this problem. For now he suggested some 1/2"x1/8" square steel stock, cut to length. The problim he had with this is that he came down on a rock right on his cross member, and the spacer dimpled his frame. He sugested a larger spacer to distribute the load over more of the frame to prevent dimpling. Well as I am already W A Y over budget, not to mention losing my job on fri, I had to improvise. I noticed that the front spring rear shackle upper bushing sleeve was made of some pretty beefy steel. Because I replaced all this with the ORD HD shackle kit, I had all these old parts left over waiting to be recycled. So out came the sawsall and a few min later I had 4 1 1/2" spacers. Just the right size for the 7/16 grade 8 bolts! This went in fast and easy and fixed my vibration problem, But Murphy was waiting for me to declare victory. As I backed out of the shop to take it for a much anticipated test driv, I noticed a grinding sound and vibration. This did not feel good. I was worried that I had dropped the T-Case too much and was binding the tranny or something. After a little investigating, I found that the front drive shaft was sitting , no GRINDING away the exhaust pipe that runs across to the other side. So my test drive was fown the street to a muffler shop to do some relocating. He charged me $65 to replace and relocate the offending piece, and replace my tail pipe that I had to amputate to install the rear shackle flip kit. So she drives pretty good, no vibration at all. A little loose in the steering, and I don't have the sway bar connected because they are still back ordered. I havn't tried the freeway yet, I may wait till I get the swaybar disconnects in, I'm a little scared, the freeways can be crazy here in L.A.
    Well friday I get the tires mounted and the alignment done (hope they dont rape me on the alignment, they said if there is a camber problem it could cost upwards of $140).
    Wish me luck, pics coming soon I promise....
    Thanks to all those who helped with invaluable information, I could not have done it without you all, LITERALY!

    BlazingWolf
     

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