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First time doing sprngs,ball joints,and headers any tips?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by muddbogg89, Sep 10, 2002.

  1. muddbogg89

    muddbogg89 Registered Member

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    Chicago(suburbs)
    The good ole Blaze had very tired front springs,ready to break ball joints,and a exhaust manifold that has rusted through in a spot.It also needs the (I don't know the proper name)axle end joints.I got some flow-tech afterburner headers and a rough country 2in lift springs(yeah I got the blocks for the rears,I plan to do a shakle flip in the future)and i will be visiting the parts store for the ball joints.
    My buddy and I (both have never done any of these things before)are going to try and do this next weekend.
    Any tips would be appreciated
    p.s. I know how to take the hubs apart and the rotors off /forums/images/icons/ooo.gif
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    There's a TON of info about all of these already on the site. I've found this to be extremely helpful: /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    [​IMG]

    /forums/images/icons/cool.gif /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/cool.gif /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/cool.gif /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/cool.gif /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif /forums/images/icons/cool.gif /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If you are talking about axle bearings, I wouldn't do them unless you plan to use repair bearings. (rear axles I'm guessing)

    You'll have to pull the axles to determine if they need them anyways, as the bearings chew into the axles, and if they are worn down a lot, you are wasting your time putting new stock replacement bearings in. The repair bearings move the area the bearing rides on, so its on a "virgin" bearing surface.

    They are a pain to do, and IMO, slide hammer is necessary for the job.
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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  5. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, I got one of them! A must have!!!!

    John
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah it's a "How did I ever do without it" tool. It's on sale for 39.99 right now. Worth every penny. I have thought about buy a second one just for the shop.
     
  7. NetBlazer

    NetBlazer Registered Member

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    I agree, a must have tool. I just posted to someone else last week on this thing for swapping u-joints.

    If you know how to work the system on Harbor Freight's site, you can get this for 1/2 of the above posted price /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif Often times their stuff is available in a flyer (they run several fliers concurrently) and doesn't show right up on the site with the lowest possible sale price, you just need to know how to reference the other fliers. In this case, you can get it for just $19.99 if you go to the site and click on "order from printed catalog" then put in the number 38335 6 VGA and qty 1 (I screwed this up on my last post, hopefully I get it right this time /forums/images/icons/blush.gif ), it will show up in your cart priced at $19.99. You can then either place the order online, or printout the shopping cart from the web page and bring it in store and they will pricematch it for you.

    Get one for sure, it's well worth $39.99, and at $19.99 it's a total no-brainer. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  8. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    There is a write up by ftn96 on how to do ball joints. I think it's in the technical section. Yes, go buy the tool mentioned above. It makes short work of u-joint repairs on the trail too.
     
  9. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    Make sure you understand "Upper Ball-Joint Pre-Load "
     
  10. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Just did Flowtech headers on the 78 (Thanks Noangel, the blazer she bought had a set thrown in for free still in the box). A word of caution, they come VERY CLOSE to the top portion of the rear shackle on the front spring (wow, say that fast 3 times). Make sure if the shackele bolts are threaded so that the nut is to the inside of the shackle, that any excess threads are ground/cut down, otherwise they WILL more than likely hit the collector. Other than that, they look good, fit good, and are made of some pretty heavy gauge material. Good luck on that, and the rest.
     

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