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first v1500 brake job, help please!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by basketcase, Jul 2, 2005.

  1. basketcase

    basketcase Registered Member

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    This morning I am going to attempt to replace my rotors wheel bearings and wheel joints on my 90 v1500 sub. i've never messed with one of these before, so I was hoping that you guys could tell me what to look for or where i might screw up. Any tools or parts i might need that i wouldn't have thought of? brakes went metal to metal last night, so i cant put this off, at least the rotors were already warped, so i don't feel bad about destroying them. also, i don't have a press, is there a way to do the wheel joints in the driveway, with only hand tools?
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2005
  2. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    What you want to accomplish isnt too difficult of a job. Heres the steps

    1) Jack up truck, take tires off all that crap etc...
    2) Take off your calipers and put your new pads in and hang up the caliper with some wire so it doesnt just free hang
    3) Take out the locking hubs
    a) Take off the dial/cover and lay it aside
    b) There will be a snap ring holding the hub body inside the wheel hub,
    there might be one large one riding on the outside of the wheel hub
    and a small regular one on the axle shaft end. Dont remember though.
    4) Time to pull the hub body out of the wheel hub, I take 2 of the screws
    that hold the dial on and screw them into the hub body to use them as
    "handles" to pull the body out.
    5) Grab your hub socket (big 4 prong socket) and turn off the first lock nut,
    behind that should be a washer, then turn off the second lock nut and pull
    it out.
    6) Rotor/Hub should pull off now
    7) Need to separate the hub from the rotor, pound out the wheel studs to
    separate
    8) Remove the wheel bearings, and wheel seal then you can remove the
    bearing races using a brass drift or whatever youve got (If you have a
    grinder, save a set of the races so you can grind material off of them
    and use them to pound the new ones in)
    9) Put your new races in the hub either using a brass drift or the method
    mentioned above (carefull not to nick or scar the race)
    10) Attach the new rotor to hub
    11) Pack wheel bearings and throw the back one in and put the new wheel
    seal in, I wait to put the outer bearing in until i get the hub onto the
    spindle.
    12) Now that you've completed the brake part of the job you can do the axle
    joints
    13) Take off the bolts holding the spindle on, it might be frozen on there so
    you can take a block of wood and beat the spindle so it comes free of
    the knuckle
    14) Slide spindle off and then you can pull axle out of the differential
    15) You should have no trouble replacing the u-joints, maybe have somebody
    help hold the axle so its easier to work with
    16) Put axle back into diff and throw spindle back on
    17) Slide your hub onto the spindle and put that outer bearing into the hub
    and slide the whole thing all the way up onto the spindle
    18) Put your first lock nut onto the spindle and tighten it down, I tighten it
    until I get a slight drag when I turn the hub (its all a feel thing for me)
    19) Put washer in and then tighten up the outer lock nut
    20) Throw the locking hub back together and put your calipers on and you're
    done.

    It isnt a bad job at all
     
  3. basketcase

    basketcase Registered Member

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    thanks, as soon as the mother in law picks up my daughter i get out and get at it. can i reuse the studs or do i need new ones?
     
  4. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    You can reuse them its up to you...
     
  5. basketcase

    basketcase Registered Member

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    where is the lock ring? been playing wiht this for an hour and can't figure it out.

    Jul02^12.JPG
     
  6. basketcase

    basketcase Registered Member

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    finally figured the hub out!! thank god! now if i could only get the wheel joints apart. i dont see snap rings on the inside so i think they are the oem injected plastic kind, but they wont press out. think ill just take them out again in a couple weeks and have a driveshaft shop dp them i dont have time for this
     
  7. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Glad you got it figured out, I had a 90 K5 and honestly that pic doesnt look anything like mine did, maybe its the angle of the picture or something...
     
  8. basketcase

    basketcase Registered Member

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    Yeah, when i finally got it i felt kinda dumb, cause i had been starin at it for at least two hours when the other side came apart in about 2 minutes! duh! :o oh well, next itme will be easy. just got back from the test drive and it feels better than it ever has since i got it last april. the new stainless hoses really help pedal feel.
     

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