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five lug or six lug?

Discussion in 'Other Rides' started by Jonny-K5, May 29, 2004.

  1. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    i've got a 65' GMC 1/2 ton. im in the process of rebuilding the whole truck to be basically a lowered muscle truck. my question is if i should swap out the six lug gear when i upgrade or keep it. im buying a new dropped spindle/ disc brake kit that comes in either five or six. the truck has stock 15x8 ralleys that i wouldnt mind keeping on the truck,for that sleeper look. or i've got a set of five lug mag wheels in storage, thou i dont know if i'd like the way they would look.
    the rear is a dana 44 with some kind of posi. it works good except when you get above 40, then it howls alittle, but only on acceleration.

    i'd like to finish off this truck as cheaply as possible. would it be cheaper to figure out whats wrong with the dana axle or find a five lug outta something and swap it over. what could make the axle howl like this? the gears look fine. what do you guys think?
     
  2. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    just looked again at the prices. 100 bucks cheaper for the 5 lug compared to 6. what vehicle has a 5 lug rear, leaf springs and posi that would work for my truck? el camino? camero?
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I'd start by finding a rear end first. I think it'd be easier to shop around at your local salvage yards, or if you can find a parts truck cheap enough. Then buy the front kit with the same studs. Mayby you can rebuild your current rear axle befor it go's south. Not sure what is causing the howl. Have you checked to see it has enough gear oil in it ?? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif I would think 5 lug would give you more options for aftermarket rims though.
     
  4. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    its got plenty of oil in it. i changed the fluid when i checked the gears. i think its one of the bearings, tho not sure if its diff or pinion. one thing i dont like about getting a new axle is losing my posi. this truck definatly needs it. how would a drop in locker work? what would be a good one to use?
     
  5. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    If this is a street toy, you may want to look into one of these.
     
  6. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    ya its a street toy, but the reason i was thinking about a plug in locker was to avoid pulling the diff out. i'd really like to find one with a stock posi so i dont have to bother tearing into it. if i find a good open diff thatll fit i'd use a plug in, just wondering how one of them will work for a street truck. i figure it will act just like a detroit.
     
  7. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    How about a 12 bolt ? They came in the mid to late sixties, have lockers available for open cases , and seem to last with moderate power. I seem to think in a 2wd application where it wont flex and have to spin and grab , it would last a long time. Ralley rims and all the chrome trim would look nice , kind of restified /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Forget about this kit deal if you want to go 5 lug. The 1973-87 Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton front disc brake parts are a bolt on in your truck as well as the 5 lug GM 12 bolt truck rear axles (since 1963-66 GMC's are all leaf spring and not coils like Chevy).

    I have everything you need up here on trucks that are about to go to scrap and could sell you everything you need very cheap. Next time I meet up with 90blzr later this summer I could get all the parts down to you for some gas money.
     
  9. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the info. the main reason i was thinking of going with 5 lug is because i have a set of mag wheels in storage that arent being used, but i found out they dont have the right bolt pattern, width or backspacing i want. so i've pretty much given up on this plan. i want to go with the kit because i want to put on dropped spindles. all new equipment is also another plus.thanks anyway tho.

    by the way, where are you located? i noticed the 6066 link in your bio, what kind of truck do you have?
     
  10. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    I'm in WA state right now. I have owned many 60-66 GMC's in the last few years and currently converting a 1966 GMC 3/4 ton from 2wd to 4x4. Running a 351 V6, SM465, NP208 and 10B/14SF.
     
  11. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    yes only 2wd in 63-72 years and both 4x4 and 4x2 in 73-87 are all 42.5" spring pad center spacing so you can use any of those 12 and 10 bolt rears all those years, you will have to relocate one shokc mount is all and maybe replumb the brake hose connection on the diff cover bolt bracket, and then youll be good to go

    for 64-70 trucks you can convert to 5 lug disc brakes on the 2wds by taking the front either entire cradle crossmember assembly or the spindles rotors calipers from a 71-87 2wd truck, and from vans you can take the upper arms and spindles rotors calipers but not the lower arms the lower arm shafts on vans are way longer cuz the chassis is wider on vans by around 3" van sway bars are longer too cuz of this so you cant use van sway bar setup on a truck chassis either.

    if you need ot know moree then lemme or kennyw know we can let you know what you can or cant use to convert a drum front truck to 5 lug discs, youll have to get hoses to match the year of calipers you are using too and reroute all the front brake lines too and use a prop combo valve assembly off a 71-87 truck and you can use the stock master cylinder setup from a 67-70 drum truck even thoguh some say you cant or shouldnt, yes the 71-up front brake reservoir is larger than rear but if you are using up all the fluid in the front reservoir of a drum/drum cylinder then you have something wrong anyways.,

    i personally reccomend getting stock spindles rotors calipers off a 71-up truck rather than using those pre-71 disc brake caliper conversion brackets for the 70 older spindles,

    also you can buy 6 lug 2wd rotors for the pre 71 trucks but they are kinda pricey, and then you still have to buy the caliper bracket mounting kit and then so forth.


    the entire engine suspension cradle crossmember assembly ont eh front of the GM trucvks is held directyl to the frame rails with 12 bolts, its not that bad of a deal to unbolt and roll a 71-up cradle under, ive doen it a few times but youll have to remove the engine or hold it up from above somehow while you have the truck up off the ground, the cradle itself is the same thing all years, and doing it all this way saves you from having to disassemble the suspension components and having to deal with realignment problems and coil spring force and so forth.

    the only little things different starting in 73 for sbc and straight six engine equipped models is that the engine frame mounting brackets changed shape and the mounting holes changed locations in 73, thats no biggie at all, just drill new mounting holes with a 3/8" steel bit and use your 3/8" hardware just like the factory did, it is easy as cake and then you can use 73-up mounts or 63-72 ones, whichever you prefer or have available, except that the two designs dont have tjhe engine sit at the same height(vertically)

    and if you want extra beef directyl inside the frame rails directly under the frame engien mounting brackets then find a 3/4 or 1 ton truck 73-up(frame rails front third of length of truck are same height and width as 1/2 and 3/4 ton, but are 3" taller under the cab and front of bed areas) and rob the brace brackets from the rails, it keeps the rails from flexing from engine work load torque, i mifght have a pair around here still, or i might have tossed them all away by now, i had a few pairs from a 76 C-20 and a 74 C-20, and etc they fit the 1/2 ton frames, it makes a difference, just liek steering box frame brace brackets do, frames flex and twist, more than you think, but are deisgned to under the bed and cab areas, but you dont want it to up front however.




    good luck
     

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