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fixing k-5 body, doors won't close

Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by 1979jimmy350, Oct 24, 2006.

  1. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to be doing the floors in my 74 K-5 soon but that is the least of my worries, I belive that the body is tweaked, i can not get my doors to close, i can grab the windsheild fram and the whole thing will move, I belive the somhow the firewall is bent forward, i did use a comalong attached to teh a pillar and was able to get the doors where they woudl close but as soon as i took it off it went right back, When i do my floor i plan on replacing the Front floor supports also, should this fix my problem, i would like to get it so i can open and close my doors
     
  2. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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  3. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    that sounds pretty bad...


    Alot of times the body rusts to a point where it lets the A pillar and the door hinge mounts sag a bit. Unless you really know what you are doing it might be pretty had to get everything back in place. Also remember once you start cutting and welding its hard to turn back.
     
  4. RockinChevy

    RockinChevy 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    YEOWCH.... hope you can get it straightened out....
     
  5. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    This is where a frame machine is a huge plus... how your doors fit to the cab is your critical factor... Proper gapping is what it's all about...

    Yeah, as the other guys mentioned... body alignment becomes critical when you dismantle certain parts of the cab...

    I'll actually be doing this over X-mas, everything from the transfer case shifter back.. New front floor supports done from 2 x 4 all the way back to tailpan and qrters.. It's all about maintaining proper distances and doing it in a particular order... Qrters first, then floor for my case...

    Always remember, tackweld stuff in till you add components like doors, etc to check final fits, etc...
     
  6. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    yea, i know the frame is straight, im not looking to get it looking great, i just want to replace the front floors and get the doors to actually close
     
  7. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    nah, nah, got nothing to do with the frame being straight... Has to do with clamping the body in position, measuring, aligning, etc...
     
  8. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    what would you then suggest as my best plan of attack for fixing the problem, i did bolt the hard top on to the winsheild frame but the bed rai holes do not line up
     
  9. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Ah, didn't realize it was full convertable.. I just looked at your name and assumed it was a second gen... I'm not overly familiar with the rockerbox, bodymount setup on the first gens...

    I would try to get the hardtop to bolt up to the bedrails first.. Come-a-long, porta power to the firewall, etc... Then determine where it's pivoting.. sounds like those front mounts/floor area have failed, allowing the firewall to flop around...

    Once the hardtop is bolted up, you should be able to replace the structural floor area without too many probs.. Floor jacks under each side of the A pillar should help in aligning it all...
     
  10. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    ok, yea the front two mounts for the body are not attached becasue the bolts broke off so i figured i was going to have to replace the floor supports, and the floors, the rockers actually are not rusted and the rocker boxes are in good shape still
     
  11. vtblazer

    vtblazer 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    It is a 2nd gen, 73/74/75 were full convertables too.
     

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