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Floor Crack

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TXsizeK5, Feb 5, 2002.

  1. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    Does anyone else have a crack in their floor where the driver seat is bolted? Do body shops usually fix this kind of damage? How muhc does it usually run? Thanks

    87 Custom Deluxe
    305/Sm465/ NP208
    4.56 , 35" BFG Muds, CatCo Cat & Series 40 delta flow 3" tips.
    6"Springs, Tranny, & Engine coming soon.
     
  2. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    You can probably find a shop that will repair the crack. Is that the only damage in the area, it's usually accompanied with rust and rot. Before I got religion and started doing ALL the repair work on my K5, I brought it to a body shop to have them repair the floorpan and they did shoddy job with some kind of serious adhesive and metal/glass laminated bandaid. To their credit they didn't charge me. But it still didn't fix the problem.

    I'd find a budy with a welder, at least then you will know what's being done.

    Opinion only, and you know what they say about those...


    John
     
  3. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    One of my friends said he got a somewhat thick metal plate and just bolted that on both sides of the floor to sandwich the crack.... sound like a good idea or no?

    87 Custom Deluxe
    305/Sm465/ NP208
    4.56 , 35" BFG Muds, CatCo Cat & Series 40 delta flow 3" tips.
    6"Springs, Tranny, & Engine coming soon.
     
  4. jcg

    jcg 1/2 ton status

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    Mine is cracked in two places on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. I was planning on doing both ideas, welding the cracks and then putting in heavier steel to disperse the weight of my sorry butt. Eventually I'm just going to mount the seats to the cage, that should pretty much take care of the entire problem.

    Joe
    RIT Mini-Baja www.rit.edu/~bajawww
    Team Mudnuts www.mudnuts.org
     
  5. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I don't see why that wouldn't work, so long as the rest of the metal is solid. That was basically what I did, but it was a temporary thing as my floor boards were rotted beyond belief.

    I'd probably POR15 the area first, put in your plate, maybe even silicon caulk to keep out the water, then POR15 the whole thing when your done. You know, just to make sure you don't cause future problems with your fix.

    John
     
  6. racercrazy

    racercrazy 1/2 ton status

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    My seats were getting pretty bad, to the point I was using a breaker bar to hold up the driver seat. My Dad and I was going to put two plates ( one outside and one in ) under the seats, but after removing the carpet we decided to just replace the whole floor from tailgate to firewall, along with replacing a number of other things. The only thing is that we could not find a repo/oem floor from the foot wells to the back seat, this weekend we are going to have to fab our own floor for the seats. If you are going to do it and you plan to keep it for a while, you might as well do it right.

    My question is, what is POR15?


    89 Full Size Blazer Silverado 350 4" Lift 33" BFG M/Ts
     
  7. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I welded mine up about a year ago, and they are still holding...may want to try to brace it with a piece of angle iron or L channel.

    90K5
     
  8. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    But I mean, if it is rotted pretty bad, i can always just buy new floor boards right? LoL, how muhc do those run? Easy to install?

    87 Custom Deluxe
    305/Sm465/ NP208
    4.56 , 35" BFG Muds, CatCo Cat & Series 40 delta flow 3" tips.
    6"Springs, Tranny, & Engine coming soon.
     
  9. racercrazy

    racercrazy 1/2 ton status

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    I could find a repo or an oem replacement for the floor under the seat. More than likely, you will have to fab your own.

    Carl

    89 Full Size Blazer Silverado 350 NP241 TH700R 4" Lift 33" BFG M/Ts
     
  10. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    Check it out.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.por15.com/>http://www.por15.com/</a>

    John
     
  11. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, here is what you need to do. First you need to cut away and grind away any of the rust. Then get some 1/8 angle iron about 24" long. This will be long enough to over lap both the under body supports. This will distribute the weight of your ass across both supports and not the thin sheet metal floor. Line the angle iron up over the existing holes. Drill some holes in the angle iron for your seat mount bolts to go through. You may have to get some longer ones. One you have this all set up where you can bolt it in. Remove all this and, remove all the paint from that area. Stop drill the cracks. Have a welder coem in and tack the cracks back together sparingly on the heat. Then coat the hole area with por15 or the rust treatment of your choice. Once all this is dry, go back and line up the angle iron pieces, put the bolts in to hold them in place, then weld them down to the floor. Then remove the bolts, go back and put a good coat of paint on all this or some good under coating, then re-install the seats. Sounds like a lot. But this is the best cheapest way I have found to cure this problem. The angle iron is choice because it will have more vertical support to keep it from sagging under load. Now, I only weight 170. So if you weight mor ehtan that or 200+ you might want to upgrade to a little thicker than 1/8. But the 1/8 angle iron across both under supports should do the trick. ITs alot better than the seat bolted directly to the unsupported sheet metal. Sometimes I wonder about those goobs at the GM engineering department. [​IMG]

    **WARN**ing, Something winching this way comes! [​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.mccords.s5.com/myk5/index.htm>NashvilleK5</a>
     

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