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Floor question?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Brocky, Dec 15, 2005.

  1. Brocky

    Brocky 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    St.John's Newfoundland, Canada
    I am going to finally pick up the metal to replace my floor pans and am stuck trying to decide what size/guage metal to use. Some people like 1/8 checker plate I know I have seen it here but some people tell me it is too strong and will tear away from the weld points. Any ideas what size metal to use ?
     
  2. SchnorrCS

    SchnorrCS 1/2 ton status

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    When I did mine, I used 16 gauge stainless steel for mine. It's a PITA!!! If I had to do it again, I would order floor pans from LMC and weld them in. Trust me, it's hard. My floor is super strong though.
     
  3. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I like em thich too...not "tinny"...

    I never cared for the aluminum foil thickness cancer patches most of the china repair panels are made from..they rot again too quickly here for my tastes..so I use 16 ga galvanized steel to patch the floors in my trucks if they need patching..that way,I only have to do it once..its difficult to cut 16 ga,I used my sawsall and the flat bed and sideboards on my truck to "clamp" it down while I cut it..and was able to use my arc welder to "spot" weld it in..got sick from sniffing the zinc fumes too..:rolleyes:

    I put china rockers and floors in my 74 K20 in 1991 right after I got it..by 1995,the rockers were still not full of holes yet,but were rusty--the floors were like swiss cheese already..the 16 ga. galvanized panels I put in were still like the day I put them in when I had to scrap it this summer..all the OTHER metal they were welded too was either missing or rotted,and the frame was junk too..I was almost tempted to carve them out and save them for the next truck...:thinking: ..

    I've used galvanized heating duct pipe and ductwork for quickie repairs on rockers and floors,and door bottoms,on trucks that need to pass inspection ,but the owners don't want to spend hundreds fixing rot holes and bondoing them perfect..most of its a bit on the thin side though--it covers the holes,but doesn't add much structural strength..

    I add a few "U" shaped channels under the floor to stiffen it up,if I use the thinner stuff..I usually braze in the thin stuff,its rather diffiucult to mig weld,and arc is too powerful--just blasts holes in it!..:doah: ..or I use pop rivets or self drilling drive screws..

    The "stovepipe" stuff is especially good for the curved section of the rockers that always rot away,and the bottoms of the doors..its already "pre curved!"--and its easily bent and hammered into shape....one guy opted for nickel plated chrome 4" gas furnace vent pipe!..bling!!.I guess stainless is available too,but its not cheap!..I spent 40 bucks for a 2' section of 6" stainless for my stove to chimmney connector!.:eek1:
     
  4. RustyParts

    RustyParts 1/2 ton status

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    got sick from sniffing the zinc fumes too..

    Good way to kill yourself, welding or cutting galvanized metal produces a poisonous gas. Be careful please.

    Inhalation of high concentrations or iron oxide fumes or dusts
    may lead to a benign pneumoconiosis (siderosis). Inhalation of high
    concentration of ferric oxide may possibly enhance the risk of lung cancer
    development in workers exposed to pulmonary carcinogens. The inhalation
    of high concentrations of freshly formed oxide fumes and dusts of
    manganese, copper, lead, and/or zinc in the respirable particle size range
    can cause an influenza like illness termed metal fume fever. Typical
    symptoms last 12 to 38 hours and are characterized by metallic taste in the
    mouth, dryness and irritation of the throat, followed by weakness, muscle
    pain, fever and chills.​
     

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