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floor replacement

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MA87K5, Jul 17, 2002.

  1. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    In 2 weeks I am going to replace my floor under the front seats and both rockers. What steps will I need to take to do the job the easy and safe way? I do know that I will have to weld a brace in between the side of the door hinge and the door striker. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
     
  2. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    I can get diamond plating, the metal kind, not aluminum, for about 50 bucks for a 4 foot by 8 foot section.. I'm gonna cut out the floorboards below front seats and do it that way /forums/images/icons/smile.gif then herculine it /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  3. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Does anyone sell the floor brace that goes from one side the the other? The one that is on top of the rear cab mounts.
     
  4. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    lmc does
     
  5. 74k5inVA

    74k5inVA 1/2 ton status

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    let me know how the diamond plating goes. i am thinking of doing that myself. i think it will be easier and look good
     
  6. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    Once you get the inner and outer rocker cut out and remove the three spot welds holding the B pillar to the front floor reinforcement( the part that goes from one side of the truck to the other just behind the rear seats) the weak part will be right at the top of the windsheild pillar where it meets the roof. Best to take some cross measurements on the door opening and write them down, when you weld everything back together hang the door first and adjust everything until it fits nice. I have some step by step pics on the link below, see if that helps.I did not replace the floor but I went and fabbed sheets to glue and weld over top of the old floor for reinforcement. I did not have a bad rust problem on the floor but I did cut access holes in the rear to get rid of the rust in the crossmember. This weekend I'll be welding the left outer rocker back on and starting on the lt and rt floor extensions.Jst ask for help if you run into a snag.
     
  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Leave the outer rocker till last. You can do everything but the pinch weld at the door before you have to get the outer rocker out of the way. Leaving the outer section in will help make sure the door frame stays where it belongs. As far as I know you cannot get a pre stamped floor for under the seat area. I had to make mine for my 75. The front floor where your feet go is available and dirt cheap. The one for the trucks is identical and I think the run about $20 from J.C. Whitney. That will leveve you wit a mostly flat area to replace. The floor does slope from the tunnel to the door and if you look you will notice the place where the seats bolt is raised to give a level spot for the seat to bolt too. you need to figure out how to get that spot back in.
     
  8. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Thank you everyone. I have started on the floor. I found a company that had the rear floor half that included the lip that butts up to the rocker and the vertical part that goes to the rear floor but doesn't bolt to it. I test fitted it and it looks very good. Now all I need is the rear cab mount(s) and the front floors. So far the front cab mount looks good. I paid $79ea. for the rear halfs. The cheapest I've seen around. The only flaw is that they don't have the relief for the frame. And that they are made overseas. But still a good piece. Thanks again.
     

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