Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

for anyone who converted to 8 lug

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by blazing86, Aug 8, 2001.

  1. blazing86

    blazing86 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2000
    Posts:
    290
    Likes Received:
    0
    I want to convert to 8 lug and wondering how much everyone spent on parts
     
  2. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2001
    Posts:
    556
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NC, USA
    Yea, about 1500.00 for a D60, 14ff from Wayne's friend. This is the best way to convert to 8 lug, and hopefully, only have to do it once.

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  3. blazing86

    blazing86 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2000
    Posts:
    290
    Likes Received:
    0
    no i ment buy buying hubs, rotors and backing plates.......
     
  4. Predator

    Predator 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2001
    Posts:
    130
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    OKC,OK
    I picked up an 8 lug 14FF and 10 bolt from a 3/4 ton 80 Sub for $300 from a salvage yard and added about $150 for all new seals, bearings, brakes.
     
  5. blazing86

    blazing86 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2000
    Posts:
    290
    Likes Received:
    0
    so i could just get the parts off of a junked 3/4 ton 10 bolt?
    anyone buy the parts new?
     
  6. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2001
    Posts:
    556
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NC, USA
    Yea, I know you meant hubs, rotors, wheels, but why would you do that unless you wanted to go to heavy gear, must be a damn nice set of rims or tires. Really, do the swap because eventually the bug is going to bite you, ask others, they will tell you, the go big bug wins in the end, so if you go big the first time, money saved in the long run. LOL

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  7. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    I paid $150 for 3/4 ton hubs, spindle, rotors, and backing plates off an 82 Burb. I have a 14FF in the rear and feel like I should be able to go a long way before completly destroying my 10bolt that's why I went with the conversion. I have lifetime warranty on brake pads so I didn't have to pay for that and the only other thing you need is bearings which vary in prices depending on what and where you get them. The only other thing is rims which I got the set of four for $280 installed and balanced.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF CHATA?
     
  8. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    I did get a price for brand new. I think it came out to be about $350-$400.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF CHATA?
     
  9. blazing86

    blazing86 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2000
    Posts:
    290
    Likes Received:
    0
    so i need a new spindle and bearing s too?
     
  10. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2001
    Posts:
    511
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Key West, FL - Southernmost Point
    In the technical section the page with the 6 - 8 lug conversion said all new parts, for a D44 conversion is $575 from Border Parts. The link is at:

    http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html
    So I says to him, I said, "get your own monkey."
    1986 K5, 350 GM Crate, 700R4, NP208
     
  11. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2001
    Posts:
    3,369
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    I'm with TheGeneral... started building my Blazer in March this year. I had first installed a 14BFF and a 3/4 ton 10 bolt. Soon later, all the talk about the D60 had me wanting one. Next thing you know, I was driving to Montreal Canada from Chicago to go pick up my own D60... If you have the slightest thought in your head to go D60, save your $$$ and do it right the first time.

    Check out my truck almost ready for the road:
    http://24.10.209.54/bigolk5.htm
     
  12. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2000
    Posts:
    974
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    South Texas
    Dan, YOU HAVE GOT A SWEEEET RIG!!!

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.chriswhitley.com>www.chriswhitley.com</a>
     
  13. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    No you don't need a new spindle but bearings should be new with new races. Although I reused mine since they were only 1 month old. Some guys say that you NEED to replace your bearings with new ones everytime the races change, but I've been doing it like this for years and never had any sort of problem. It might not be the CORRECT way but it works for me.
    So the only things I replaced for the conversion are Backing plate hubs and rotors.
    On the main page Steven Hunt has a 44 so he needed to get new spindles also. That's why his quote from Border parts was more than mine.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF CHATA?
     
  14. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    The good thing about getting the spindles from the donor axle is that you have spares. I've got spare spindles, bearings and axle shafts from the same donor vehicle. It's not much more and you have a little more piece of mind.
    Sure I'd like to have a D60 but for a daily driver who gets off road about once a month or every other month. The 10 bolt will do fine.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF CHATA?
     
  15. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2001
    Posts:
    6,178
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Carlisle, Pa
    I have to agree on the Dana 60 and 14ff just because nothing beets the cool factor of a 1 ton running gear.

    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  16. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    Front axle:
    I bought everything from the knuckles out from an 8-lug 10-bolt (the guy at the yard torched the ends off of an axle) and he threw in some spare axleshafts for $50. I then installed new rotors and wheel studs (can't remember how much they were) while I was at it. I used the spindles from the junkyard parts since they were in better shape then the ones currently on the axle, and re-used my wheel bearings with some fresh grease. Add a can of spray paint to clean up the backing plates and hub, and slap it on.

    Rear axle:
    Bought a 1-ton 14 bolt FF and spring plates with new brake wheel cylinders, shoes, and wheel studs already installed for $100, and had a friend weld up the spiders gears. New u-bolts and conversion u-joint from NAPA, a couple cans of paint, and a couple quarts of gear lube.

    I would no more than about $300 total.
     

Share This Page