Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

For those of you have replaced rusted out floors with new one...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by fortcollinsram, Mar 3, 2004.

  1. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,261
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    I am going to be attcaking my rested out floors this spring. I am trying to get some on info on how exactly you guys went about it...I am mainly just lloking for pics or some explanation on how YOU did it...I am just going to be replaceint the floor wiht like 18ga. sheet metal any tips would be greatly appreciated...How can I prevent things such as oil-canning? Thanks

    Chris
     
  2. rcurrier44

    rcurrier44 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2003
    Posts:
    320
    Likes Received:
    0
    What the heck is oil-canning?

    I have cut out the old floors in the past and tried to weld in and fab my own sheetmetal...it was a real pain. If you realy want to weld it in bite the bullet and order pre formed pieces. Might be easier and cheeper just to swap to a new cab.

    On my latest DD it had so much floor rust that I coulden't realy cut pieces out and patch in new metal. So I wire brushed the floor to get rid of all the loose stuff and painted it on both sides with Rustolium Rusty Metal Primer. Since I had a bunch of stainless around I cut and formed to creat floor pans. They creat a 4" deep tub in the footwell area. Then I used alluminum rivets and silicone to hold the stainless in place. Finaly I went from underneath and used expanding foam to keep dirt and junk from getting packed between the old holy-sheetmetal and the new stainless.

    Once the carpet and kickpannels were layed down you coulden't even tell anything had been done.
     
  3. GMCLegacy

    GMCLegacy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2002
    Posts:
    620
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Grand Haven, MI
    i currently am enjoying the removing of cancer on my 76 C30. i will try to get some pics. i am by no means a body man, and it shows.

    i bought a set of the pre formed panels, i dont think it would be worth your time making your own. they are under 30 bucks a side.
     
  4. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,261
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    well thats half my problem...I have the replacement floor pans from LMC and they are JUNK...they are paper thin...I think I may rip the carpet out this weekend and reevaluate what I am going to do...

    Chris
     
  5. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,261
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    oil canning is when the metal "pops" when you sit in the seat or walk on the floor, usually cause by distortion in the metal...

    Chris
     
  6. GMCLegacy

    GMCLegacy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2002
    Posts:
    620
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Grand Haven, MI
    well i got my driver side floor pan in, it turned out alright, i do have a little oil canning as you call it between the two layers of metal. i think if i were to put a few more plug welds it would take care of it, but it is good enough for me as is. the pans i got were made by Tabco and fit pretty good, nothing a bit of trimming and a hammer couldnt take care. i should have some pics by the end of the weekend.
     
  7. B_to_C

    B_to_C 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2003
    Posts:
    1,861
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    In Government Housing
    I welded in those thin panels from LMC and i do have some serious oil-canning going on for the passenger side. Makes people feel real secure as they're climbing into the back seat and the floor is moving under them! /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  8. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,261
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Collins, CO
    Well you know, I have been thinking about it, I may just keep the LMC pans and strengthen them with some thicker steel and then put them in...I dunno...

    Chris
     
  9. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2004
    Posts:
    8,832
    Likes Received:
    4
    Location:
    gilbert az
    dont waste your time with the lmc crap, dont waste your time with fabbing your own floor too.

    when I did the 75 I robbed floors off of a donor 74 blazer that also gave me its frame. I used a sawzaw and over cut all the pieces than made more precice passes and finally fitted them using a grinder and alot of time. The floors were way thicker than the lmc floors I purchased as well.

    I also had all fenders off and had the rockers cut out as well, I dont think you will g this exstream though /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

    for the 83 I just got I had planned on doing the same thing, but this time with a plasma cutter /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

    The truck is going in a friends hands real soon but if we do this on it I will take many pics for ya /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    -shawn

    also just spot welded in as factory and used over lying lips on the fire wall, then weled in by a friend /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    7,406
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Indiana
    I've replaced the rear in two blazers one GM floor panel several years ago and the second a custom floor in the works. I'm just now getting the to the front floors in the custom one /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page