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For those that have pieced together thier own hydro assist...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by pcorssmit, Feb 28, 2002.

  1. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    When you tapped the caps, did you weld an additional piece of aluminum on the end cap? If I'm measuring right, its only about .22" thick in the center. If you did weld on more metal, did you do it on the outside? And on both caps, does it matter if the pipe protrudes somewhat to the inside?

    I was planning on using 3/8" pipe threads, anyone use something different?

    How long are your lines (and how much lift/flex do you have)?

    Thanks,

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  2. WOLF359

    WOLF359 Registered Member

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    Definately reinforce the cap.
     
  3. mpascino

    mpascino 1/2 ton status

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    I have the caps of my box tapped with 3/8 fittings and have had no problems, The threads so stick into the end cap maybe by 1/8". I have not added material to the cap. I used a lathe to dril and tap the hole so I was sure it was striaght . From calculations the treads should be able to hold the pressure of the steering pump without problems. Just make sure you tap the thread as perfectly as you can.
    Good luck,
    Mike

    The jeep eater ......[​IMG]
     
  4. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Hey guys,

    I had thought about doing this but needed more input. Do any of you have Crossover Steering with this mod finished and have tested it offroad? Can you give me info on whether it improved the steering? What Cylinder did you use? Thanks a bunch.

    Mudzer 1978/91 K5
    <font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://www.mudzer.rockcrawler.com>www.mudzer.rockcrawler.com</a></font color=blue>
     
  5. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    If you are using pipe threads, why is it critical to have the hole perfect? Obvously it should be reasonably straight, but you're not sealing against the surface-or are you talking about an SAE o-ring fitting (#6).

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Wouldn't it be easier to just drill it and weld in a bung?

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  7. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Pete, why don't you just give Scott at Rockstomper a call since I know he mods boxes for hydro.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  8. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I did a little more thinking on it, and I think I'm gonna go w/a #6 SAE o-ring fitting, which goes in a 9/16-18 hole. I plan to put a small flat on the top cap, and drill and tap it. For the end, I'll weld on a 1/4 or 3/8 thick piece of aluminum (on the outside), which will then be drilled and tapped. I think I like this idea better than tapping the cap or welding a bung or bulkhead fitting to it, since the cap is fairly thin cast aluminum (ie weak). I'd be kind of worried about the side loads without the backup plate.

    pic of someone else's end cap:
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/ps-ram/mvc-280s.jpg>http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/ps-ram/mvc-280s.jpg</a>

    edit: I swear mine speeling getes worser ever dae.

    Pete


    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by pcorssmit on 03/01/02 02:45 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  9. Zepplin

    Zepplin 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>clicky<font color=blue>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/ps-ram/mvc-280s.jpg>http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/ps-ram/mvc-280s.jpg</a>


    <font color=red>74 Blazer<font color=red>
    <font color=red>Zepplin<font color=red>
    <font color=red>Check out my Blazer<font color=red>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albup14>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albup14</a>
     
  10. mpascino

    mpascino 1/2 ton status

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    I used pipe threads...Basically what I was getting at is this:
    I am a teaching assitant for an engineering processes class at my school. Time after time I see people mess up the first couple threads because they don't start the tap off straight or something of that manner. Since the end cap is thin losing a thread or two will significantly decrease the holding pressure. I wouldn't worry about it too much, hehe, I give you much more credit than a lot of people I see sown here at work[​IMG].
    Good luck,
    Mike

    The jeep eater ......[​IMG]
     
  11. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    Gotcha. So, how long are everyone's line? I may end up buying the premade ones, it seems cheaper than buying the bare hose and the crimp ends.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  12. mudddog91

    mudddog91 1/2 ton status

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    Hey were did you tap the box on the other end?I see the hose going into the end with the cap but were is the other end?How would this differ from drilling and tapping into the side of the box were companies like AGR and others do.Thats how ive done mine and was wondering if theres a difference in pressure or how the ram works if the box is tapped like youve got shown in the photo?
     
  13. titanic

    titanic 1/2 ton status

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  14. thebigdaddyof2

    thebigdaddyof2 1/2 ton status

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    Steve (Titanic),
    Are you running a stock pump, aftermarket (AGR), or did you modify yours? I'm interested to know what the results are when you add hydraulic assist with a stock pump. I know there are pump mods shown by westtexasoffroad, but I am wondering how the stock pump would respond.
     
  15. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Titanic,

    Where did you get your Cylinder, could you give me some specs? Price? Bigdaddyof2 is doing this mod and I will follow.
     
  16. titanic

    titanic 1/2 ton status

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    I had upgraded to a AGR pump when I first did my crossover steering and could not tell much difference in the power at all. I would just stay with my stock pump and see how it does. If you think your pump is weak, try a new "stock" pump before calling AGR
     
  17. titanic

    titanic 1/2 ton status

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    Georgia Hydraulics made mine to my specs. I had made my steering arms much longer than other kits and my spring over tierod moved exactly 10" left to right with the steering box. You you need a cylinder that has a stroke exactly the same movement as your steering box or at least shorter. The smaller the bore size (1.5" was mine with a 1" rod) the quicker turning response will be. I think a 1.25" bore with a 3/4 rod would be perfect. With a stock chevy tierod design, most trucks need a 8" stroke cylinder. Now, I have friends that use a 2" bore cylinder and it works fine but the larger bore cylinders take more fluid to move and that means they are slightly slower in turning, (2" bore cylinders are cheaper)I paid $150 for mine and thought that was pretty good since AGR wanted $365 at the time
     
  18. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I've got a question for you. If you went with longer steering arms for more leverage, then how did you get the steering box to supply the extra travel without going to a longer, custom pitman arm? A longer pitman arm would pretty much undo the additional leverage benefits as far as the sector is concerned, but there's always the ram which would take advantage of it. I suppose a 10" ram is also easier to find? I've seen many people complaining about having trouble finding the 8" rams. Anyway, is that basically how it worked out? Longer pitman that is...
     
  19. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Where are you all getting the hoses. I am going to check local sources, but wondering as I want to do this this weekend. Have box, moded resevoir for two return lines (got rid of T inline -this for hydro boost brake), now wanted to finish up instead of putting it all back up and then taking it back down. One more question, Oversize cooler for pump, but can I run a regular oil filter in set up without decreasing pressures, but increasing fluid of system? THanks for time.
     
  20. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Here is a link to a cylinder that should work. They also have the lines. Anyone know lenghts? They have 36", 48", then 96".
     

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