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For those with full roller rockers on a BBC in a 2nd Gen...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by fortcollinsram, Jan 17, 2004.

  1. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    I assume that you had to get "tall" aftermarket valve covers to fit the full rollers. Do the "tall" valve covers clear the brake booster? Can you remove the valve cover with out removing the brake booster/MC? I am gonna be yanking my BBC and am thinking about full roller rockers (I have roller TIP rockers now)

    Chris /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    Look in my webshots, those particular valve covers, i have a 2" body lift and I had to notch the plate that the mastercylinder bolts to the firewall on. A different style of tall cover, maybe the thin chrome style might clear if you ground the crap out of that plate, you still might need a body lift. Not sure. At any rate a bit of massaging with a sledge could work too. Also I can get my cover on and off w/out takin the mc/booster off, the main prob is how is seats around the firewall.
     
  3. moneypit

    moneypit 1/2 ton status

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    Hmmnnn.... Do we ask what you did now??? /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  4. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem as K20, Had to trim the lower corner off that plate. But i have no problem now getting them off, Other than reaching them!
     
  5. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    This is the big block in my '76. I have Harland Sharpe full roller aluminum rockers. Valve covers were on the engine when I got it. They are tall, and the previous owner had dented the inside of one of them to clear the rocker. It was the rear most one, can't remember which side. As far as clearance around the booster, it fits and I can remove the cover with out changing/removing/modifying the booster, but its tricky. Only one way it'll fit. No worries though. You shouldn't have any problems.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    No Toby..Nothing went wrong...I just can't leave well enough alone...I am planning on pulling the BBC this spring and adding aluminum heads and roller cam. Depending on the $$$ situation I will do a 4.25" crank to stroke it to 496" and bore it again agd get some Forged ROSS pistons...But it all depends on the $$$$. I think I MAY convert to Hydro boost to eliminate any clearance issues...

    Chris /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    YES GO 496. Got mine runnin this weekend w/ open headers......OOOOOOOOOOOO its a sound to be proud of. Can we say top fuel dragster sound...Makes your insides hurt. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  8. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    lol...Well the aluminum heads are gonna be enough anyhow. If I CAn float the coast of a 496 rotating assembly, I WILL !
     
  9. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    u gonna do hydraulic roller or solid roller cam? I went hydraulic roller
     
  10. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    I know I sound like an idiot but what are the differences between hydraulic and solid roler cams? I understand that they are both for high performance applications but am really at a loss after that. Thx
     
  11. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    when I installed the last big block I had some holly tall valve covers, I wound up haveing to put on a body lift..I have shuddered at the thought ever since /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    I poopoo on body lifts now /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Actually hydraulic roller is the new "standard", since about 1987, at least in GM V8's for cars.

    Hydraulic roller is the same idea as hydraulic flat tappet, except the lifter doesn't "slide" on the cam lobe like a roller. The roller actually uses a wheel which contacts the cam lobe. Theoretically less wear and less parasitic loss, but more importantly, with a roller lifter, you can run extremely steep ramps (so very fast opening and closing of the valves) that you can't with a flat tappet, as once the lobe gets too "oblong" the edge of the lifter will dig into the cam lobe. Basically, you end up keeping the valve open longer, with less time spent opening and closing it.

    Solid rollers are for high RPM use. The hydraulic lifters tend to have problems at the higher RPM's, where solids don't. Solids require periodic adjsutment, hydraulics can keep the "slop" in the valvetrain to a minimum (knid of a self adjusting system) so they don't require adjustment once initially set correctly.
     
  13. moneypit

    moneypit 1/2 ton status

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    Hmmm... Shawn is selling his 496 rotating assembly... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     

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