Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

?? for topless guys?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by LKJR, Feb 25, 2002.

  1. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2000
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lubbock, Tx
    sick perverts not what I meant.....people with blazers that have full takeoff tops...I need to replace a lot of sheetmetal in the pass side cab floor, (it's already cut out just have to put in the new panels) But here is my question and delema. When I got it the pass door was a tad bit low but it shut, took the top off last summer and to door dropped like 3/4" or so, you had to pick it up hard and shut it. I took the tranny and tcase out and the top is back on, well with the top back on and those out the doors line up like a dream. not sure of the condition of the body mounts, I'm sure they are not in the best of shape but I do plan on replaceing those and adding a 2" body lift. Any advice on the order of opperations here?
    I"d like to put the tranny / tcase back in first so I can move it to a shop to do this work.
    floor panels / rocker panels / cab supports
    Body mounts / body lift

    I don't plan on sepperating the top or the front clip when I do this, I should be fine right?

    Like em big and topless
    You call THAT...a 4x4....LMAO?
     
  2. NoSmog73

    NoSmog73 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2001
    Posts:
    2,348
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    lodi,ca
    I would do it in this order the cab supports then the rocker panels(true the panel with the bottom of the door this way as long as the door is perfectly where you need it) and then the floor then the mounts and the pucker lift
     
  3. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2000
    Posts:
    1,338
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Mine used to do the same thing in a 74 with fully removeable top. Other than all the other rust my problem with the door was the kick panel down in the lower right was rusted out letting the fire wall and windshield frame lean back. You could shake the windshield frame back and forth it was so bad. Amazingly enough my body mounts were just fine even though you could sit in the passenger side and watch the ground go by through what used to be the floor. I ran an angle up the inside of the kick plate and welded it vertically to that and then took a piece of 1x1 tube and ran it front to rear just inside where the rocker panel goes. You will find a pretty meaty piece that comes down from your bed height to the floor height. I welded the tube to it and to the front cab support and the welded the angle to it. You can now do pullups on my windshield frame with no movement. With the roof off the body will flex alot though so if you are going to wheel it topless invest in a six point cage or your doors and fenders will get up close and personal with each other

    I thought I was wrong once,
    but I was mistaken
     
  4. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,220
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    North Texas
    drag it up here and we'll put a cage in bud.

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    I had to cut both side out all the way to the tunnel on my 75. Get the top on it. Get it lined up so the door shuts correct. weld a peice of 1x2 asccross the door way to keep the demensions square. Get it on Jack stands. Tack weld a leg to the fire wall and set it on the gorund. What is going to happen is when you cut the floor out and the cab suport the fire wall will try to drop. that's why you need the brace and to get it on jack stand off the frame. Leave the sill of the rocker on till you get the floor and cab suport back on it.
    I screwed up and didn't have the truck properly suported. My fire wall is not sitting in the correct posisition to the bed so the gap around the window is not right with the hard top on.
    The key is get the truck stable so it cannoth move as you cut out the bad or you will end up with the same problem. ANother factor is I had a bad cab bushing so the bed on the passenger side was no square to the driverside.
    Pictures on my web site. link in my sig.
    Full cage did wonders for the truck also. I did something simulare to what was mentioned in one of the other posts. I ran a 1x2 up the a-piller and blind nuted it. It's welded to my rockers at the bottom (not stock see the site). I have less cowel shake than they had stock as a result. I still plan to put a tie into the roll cage at the top of the a-piller. If I get the truck twisted enough the cage and header will touch and the door will get out of alingment and bind.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
    coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     

Share This Page