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Ford HP D44 in a Chevy?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Russell, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Hey guys!

    I've got a 1978 Ford HP D44, 8 lug bolt pattern, and the same spring spacing as a Chevy sitting in the back of my truck right now.

    I know I can bolt it right on, and bolt my Chevy wheels right up to it, but does anyone know what is involved with setting the steering up? Can I bolt my old 10 bolt steering arm to it? How about hooking the stock ford hydro-assist ram up? Did these diffs ever come with a factory front limited slip?

    I'm planning on totally bench rebuilding the diff before it goes under my truck, all new seals, u-joints, balljoints, brakes and bearings etc, so I've got some time to figure things out :D

    I want the driver's side drop to avoid problems with the NV4500's external clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side, and issues with the 6.0L's exhaust exit on the passenger side.
     
  2. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    cross-over steering would be the same as a chevy axle, not sure bout stock steering
     
  3. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Since I plan on totally rebuilding the steering anyways, would it be worth it to do crossover on a relatively stock truck? Probally wind up with a 4" lift and 33s in the long run...
     
  4. b454rat

    b454rat 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Don't think you can do crossover on a stock truck, or 4". I think the crossmember gets in the way. You can run 33s on a stuck truck, or put an add-a-leaf to give it a little lift.
     
  5. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I don't know if the tapers on the TRE's are the same between Ford and GM, so I'd say the easiest and best way to guarantee the stock draglink will fit the Ford is to remove the Ford steering arm and put a raised GM arm in place of it.
     
  6. desertrat67

    desertrat67 Hawk Driver

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    you do know the diff is on the other wrong of the axle, right? As for the steering, get a ford setup and put a 2WD box in and a ford pitman arm like we all use for x-over.
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Why butcher the frame to make a Ford box fit? Much easier to install a raised steering arm to fit a GM and keep the stock GM box and drag link. Much easier and cheaper this way, too.
     
  8. desertrat67

    desertrat67 Hawk Driver

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    I meant to use a 2WD chevy box with a ford Pitman arm and the stock ford steering linkage. Or does the ford use the same fore aft setup Chevy used on these years of trucks? I thought it wasthe same goofy drag link to tie rod stuck as on the 80's trucks.
     
  9. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Yeah, I think I noticed that much :doah: :haha: I actually want the drop on the opposite side to fix a couple clearance issues :wink1:

    I want to do the 4" lift, and wide 33s, you can stuff pizza slicer 33s on a stock truck, but yeah, I'm one of those guys that has a thing with sheetmetal, I don't want to do any trimming to make wider tires fit without any rubbing, lol

    I was looking at the diff, and I agree, a lifted steering arm is definitely my cheapest solution, as compared to crossover. I doubt I'm going to have any trouble turning, as this diff has a factory hydro-assist steering ram on it already =)
     
  10. buefchris

    buefchris 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Acrossover steering will work with a 4"lift and 33"s . You must change your engine mount O.R.D.'s got'um.
     

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