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Ford part on my K5?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by OLDSTEEL, Mar 16, 2000.

  1. OLDSTEEL

    OLDSTEEL 1/2 ton status

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    Ok how many of you have had crawl under your ride with a screwdriver on nice hot day after driving for awhile and shutting the truck off, just to start the darn thing. Personally I am fed up with crossing the solinoid terminals. Well I was looking thru some old Hot Rod Mags and found a mod that looks like a good fix. It uses a Ford starting solinoid that can be mounted on the wheelwell(away from heat) and bypassing the Chevy one which is alway being exposed to heat. I know it is a ford part but if it saves me from clawling underneath I think it is worth it. Have any of you ever tried this, if so how well did it work?
     
  2. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    Summit sells the remote kit,, I just put one on my 78.

    Todd 78/87[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    Buy a genuine GM starter and you won't have to worry about it.
     
  4. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Shawn Spickler has the setup on your truck. And simply installing a genuine GM starter will not always fix your problem. They usually require heat shields.

    Corey
    88K5

    [​IMG]<font color=blue>Girls Like Guys In Bow Ties</font color=blue>
    <font color=red>http://www.geocities.com/corey_perez
     
  5. Jason73K5

    Jason73K5 1/2 ton status

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    I swear by the remote solenoid! Though even with the solenoid and genuine GM starter, I still had a problem every once in a while. I kept the remote solenoid and put on a high torque mini starter and she cranks like crazy.
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    You know that Pep Girls sells the sheild for just the solinoid for under $10. Your solinoid may also have a bunch of crud in it or bad connections.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  7. 89Jimmy

    89Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Never had any cranking problems on my '89. My friend used a ford part on his 82 Jimmy once, but the truck kept spitting it out at every opportunity. :-) Use your own good judgement.
    John
     
  8. AZK5

    AZK5 1/2 ton status

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    I have a K5 and a K20 both with 350's and I never have a hot start problem. I have headers and no heat shield on both vehicles. When it's 120 degrees here in AZ the starter gets nuclear. I have Autozone starters which aren't the highest quality. Your starter cables should be at least 2 gage with molded on ends, not bolted on. The starter should be the high torque version (the copper connecter from the solenoid to the starter is an inch back from the solenoid instead of right under it). All your grounds need to be connected and clean. A lot of guys forget some of the ground straps after an egine swap. You need the highest amp battery you can fit in the tray. It should read 12.5 volts or more cold. My Optima reads 13 volts cold. If there is any corrosion on your battery cables, throw them away, you can't clean off the corosion under the insulation. If your engine leaks oil onto/into the starter/solenoid it will cause problems.
    CB
     
  9. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    I use the Summit solonoid kit on my my K5. Sometimes the problem is not the solonoid, starter or connections. I found this the hard way when I owned a GMC Typhoon (with larger turbo/headers) and I ended up replacing 2 starters (new GM and NAPA) with new solonoids, Optima battery, battery cables and I also tried a heat shield with no luck. The turbo exhaust downpipe generates so much heat that it still caused hot start problems. I later found the small wire coming from the starter switch does not provide enough current to engage the solonoid when it's hot. After talking with some other Typhoon owners I found the Summit solonoid (basically a Ford solonoid with all the proper wires) fixed their problem and after installing it on mine, I had zero starting problems. With running big block headers on my K5 I only had this happen once. Most of you will never have a problem but if you do, I would suggest this fix. For 25 bucks you can't go wrong. You can do this cheaper if you buy your own wires (only 2) and a Ford solonoid from you local auto parts store. This also makes it handy to bump the engine if you happen to replace the distributer or a cam. When doing my dual battery setup with the Hellroaring isolator, this solonoid also made it easier to wire.

    Here's the link to Summits kit:
    http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?ssid=LUXK8QEV4IVQ7EJY3GSNV6CX6R&p=A6ED28EB-3612-11D3-949D-080009FC5B5F

    Shawn
    87 K5
     

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