Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Ford Starter Solenoid

Discussion in '1982-Present GM Diesel' started by Parf, Jan 2, 2003.

  1. Parf

    Parf Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2001
    Posts:
    81
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Golden, Colorado
    Cross posted on TheDieselPage.com

    First a big thank you to Calcide, for all his help.

    I have been so frustrated with an intermittant total powerloss due to bad connections on the wires that take power off of the starter that I decided it was time to take action. Also the fact that the wires shorted the starter into running continously until I could disconnect both of my bateries, and frying it in the process gave me some additional motivation.

    I dropped the old starter, and cut all the wires off of it. I threw away the old positive cable that went to it, and pulled the other bundle of wires (3 I think) up into the engine compartment. 2 self-tapping sheetmetal screws secured the Ford starter solenoid into the top of the frame below and to the left of the alternator. I ran the old harness that went to the starter along the side of the block, next to the glow plug harness, and extended it the short distance to the solenoid.

    Before installing the new starter, I made a short wire jumper that connected the main power of the starter to the stud that triggers the chevy starter solenoid, about an inch long. This way, whenever the starter gets any power, the solenoid kicks in.

    I crimped up some new battery cables, one from the starter to the Ford starter solenoid, one from the Ford starter solenoid up to the positive terminal of my battery, and used a T-junction sort of bettery terminal that let me continue the positive cable up over the radiator, and down to the second battery on the drivers side.

    The last thing to do was hook up the single wire that triggers the starter solenoid to the new Ford one, and take the 2 other wires that took power off of the starter and put them on the side of the solenoid that is always hot (directly between the Ford starter solenoid and the battery). A little wire loom here, and a good deal of heat-shrink there, it looks really good. Since I was already fixing all of this, I figured that I didn't want my ground cables to be the weak link in my system. So I crimped up 2 more 4/0 battery cables for the negative.

    WOW! Does this system crank over fast!!! And never again will my truck be dead because the connection of those 2 wires on the starter shook loose. No more starter heat soak starting problems in the summer, because of the remote solenoid. Just one simple cable goes down to the starter.

    Lastly, I'll admit it. 4/0 cables everywhere are excessive. They really are. But, it's bulletproof, and it makes me happy.

    [​IMG]
    A view of my new 4/0 cables and Optima red tops.

    [​IMG]
    A look down at the solenoid and the Powermaster 140amp alt.

    [​IMG]
    A detail view of the solenoid and the connections. From left to right, cable to starter, stud that triggers solenoid, 2 wires that need always on power, cable to the positive batt. terminal.
     
  2. arveetek

    arveetek 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2002
    Posts:
    722
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Granby, MIssouri, USA
    Wow! That looks great! Nice job. I'd love to have some battery cables like that! Where did you pick the wire up at to make the cables?

    Casey
     
  3. Parf

    Parf Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2001
    Posts:
    81
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Golden, Colorado
    There's a local shop called E&G Terminal here in Denver I go to. I have heard that you can get it from a welding supply shop also. I suppose you could order it all from Wrangler-NW, but shipping on that cable would kill the deal. E&G have all the lugs and crimpers and just about anything you would need for DC projects, except for cannon plugs, I think.
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,163
    Likes Received:
    1,360
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    "Save thread"...thanks!!!!!!

    I still have all my remote solenoid crap from my 350 heat soak days...I guess I'll be putting it to good use again!!/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Rene
     
  5. calcide

    calcide 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2001
    Posts:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    First a big thank you to Calcide, for all his help.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    You mean, "First a big thank you to Calcide, for all his pure genius and superhuman strength."

    I'm interested in seeing how long that starter solenoid will last with so much current running through it.
     
  6. OFFRDK5

    OFFRDK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2000
    Posts:
    1,881
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Central IL
    How is this sytem running for you? Getting tired of the same problems you are having.
    Thanks
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,163
    Likes Received:
    1,360
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    Parf can't respond to this post seeing that he is a bluebie...send him an email.

    Rene
     
  8. OFFRDK5

    OFFRDK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2000
    Posts:
    1,881
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Central IL
    /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,163
    Likes Received:
    1,360
    Location:
    E-town baby!
  10. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2004
    Posts:
    8,832
    Likes Received:
    4
    Location:
    gilbert az
    some one post this in the tech section, very cool mod /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. steelsoldiers

    steelsoldiers 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2002
    Posts:
    365
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Charleston, West Virginia
    I used that trick in my CUCV back in '95. Right after I got it the relay under the dash went out. Some GIs I talked to said they were always burning up. So I went to Napa and told the guy I wanted a remote Furd starter solenoid. I ran the old relay wire from unde the dash out to the passenger fender and hooked it to the new solenoid which I had screwed to the fender frame. It works great and I haven't had a lick of trouble from it in almost 10 years. Same one from '95 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Hell, it's more reliable than my 6.2L! I highly recommend it.

    Chris
     
  12. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,589
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Colorado
    The only snaffu I can see is that the Ford solenoid needs to be mounted with the lugs horizontal and as plumb as possible. The reason is it is a magnetically operated switch that is meant to run on an even plane. It will work for a while but it puts a substantial load on the switch to have to work up hill or down hill. (meaning being mounted not level) Eventually the switch will get stuck either open or closed.

    John
     

Share This Page