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forgot how to connect 110v three way wires at the light

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by R72K5, Apr 14, 2004.

  1. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    anyone who knows how to connect what color wires in three way circuit when have feed run to the light ?

    i forgot how to make the connections at the light

    i have just two three-way switches with one three way cable run to both from the light box directly, maybe if i finally was to learn how the switches internall work then i bet i could figure it out, i used ot have it memorized but its been too long haha




    thanks for anything
     
  2. justinf

    justinf 1/2 ton status

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    So at the light you have a 2 conductor cable for incoming power, and two 3 conductor cables (one to each switch), correct? If so, connect the black wires from the 3 conductor cables together, connect the white wires from the 3 conductor cables together. Connect the red from one of the three conductor cables to the hot lead from the light fixture. Connect the red lead from the other 3 conductor cable to the incoming hot conductor. Connect the incoming neutral wire to the neutral wire on the light. Let me know if you have a different arrangement of conductors
     
  3. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    got it, thats exactly how i was wanting to do it, light works great now /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif thanks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    i didnt realize it until i started cutting cables at the light and switches that i actually had three switches setup(four way system) setup, i wired that back when i was about 15 or 16 successfully and thats when i had three way memorized a couple different ways

    got to do another three way system upstairs tommorrow and then start laying out receptacles for the walls.

    whats rule of thumb regarding quantity of receptacles per fuse, say 20 amp or 30 amp ?

    and how many amps would each 100watt bulb be worth ?

    how does this work actually ?


    thanks /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  4. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    you have what they call a runner between the switches.
     
  5. gm4x

    gm4x 1/2 ton status

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    Fuse (breaker) sizing is for circuit (wire) protection. Don't wire your recpt's on a 30 amp fuse. It will be overfused, and a short could cause a fire before the breaker (fuse) tripped. Not sure about different state codes, but here, they rate wire size/amperage as:

    14 ga. - lighting circiuts only
    12 ga. - 20 amp max
    10 ga. - 30 amp max
    8 ga. - 40 amp max
    6 ga. - amp max
     
  6. justinf

    justinf 1/2 ton status

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    Generally speaking, I usually only put four to six receptacles per 20A circuit, use 12 gauge wire. I wouldn't use a 30A circuit, you will need heavier wire (10 gauge).

    A 100watt bulb draws about 0.9Amps. Just divide the number of watts by the voltage to get the number of amps.

    Typically, I don't design any lighting or power system using 14ga. wire, you have to use a 15 amp max breaker or fuse. The only thing I use 14 ga. for is control wiring.
     
  7. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    you have what they call a runner between the switches.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    i think what that means is that the incoming power black wire from circuit breaker goes to black screws on all the switches and to the light in all cases of three way wiring at least,

    i wish i knew exactly how the internals of at least the three way switches worked, it would help alot ot understand the wiring of the system im sure.,


    thanks!
    /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  8. justinf

    justinf 1/2 ton status

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    I will post a diagram of how a three way switch works internally tomorrow when I get to work.
     
  9. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Fuse (breaker) sizing is for circuit (wire) protection. Don't wire your recpt's on a 30 amp fuse. It will be overfused, and a short could cause a fire before the breaker (fuse) tripped. Not sure about different state codes, but here, they rate wire size/amperage as:

    14 ga. - lighting circiuts only
    12 ga. - 20 amp max
    10 ga. - 30 amp max
    8 ga. - 40 amp max
    6 ga. - amp max

    [/ QUOTE ]

    yep can catch a fire before the breaker might trip, yep, thats what i want to prevent for sure,

    interesting on the amps vs. wire ga. deal, good deal /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif


    the only 14 gauge i have in this building are the four wire three way cables, they are 14 ga.

    everything else is 12 ga. no bigger or smaller cept main feed to boxes, this is about a 3,000 ft2 building, pretty good size, 26 rooms originally but gutted and needs new roof and minor foundation cinder block work and some minor framing work(some wall studs replacement/additions and some ceiling joists in the west end of the building. it was a nursing home until about '72 and was built starting around '47 and last addition around mid '60's structure is very solid and extremely well supported with steel posts sunken into the slab that the building is built on top of,
    and has railroad tie sized beam down the center of the building under the first floor, are steel plates welded the top of each steel pole that are fastened to the underneath side of the huge beams

    but a section of roof that was last added on is sagging in the ridge you can see it and looks like has started pushing out tops of the walls., the ceiling joists and such fell down and there went what was holding both sides of the buildign to gether, building is 100` long and about 30` wide
    ill never be able to do much to it other than little stuff like doors windows siding soffit fascia maybe, if i win the lottery, and the roof has about 6 layers old on it and last one on top was put on in 74, and its getting bad but decking is great underneath, are 3/4" plank boards and black tin sheeting about a couple feet up from the fascia up towards the ridge under the first layer of shingles., starting to get leaks in a few spots anyways... not good, time is ticking and i see no foreseeable way to ever afford a roof, so..

    4.,000 sq fooot of shingles and paper is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

    plus dumpsters out the ^%$#@! and so forth,


    i think the roof will fall first before i ever could replace any of that.

    maybe roll roofing is way to go to save $ ?

    any other ideas what i can put on it, its pretty steep roof, you can walk on it pretty ok as long as you dont slip once or you might not stop slipping

    ive thought about steel corrugated tin panels to roof the building with, how much is that stuff anyone know ?
    do they make them 15' long by chance ? then i wopuldnt have to cut them down!


    i think im gonna side the back side of the building with that stuff, the back 100' long side in the alley behind


    thanks for anything on that, i need to find out anything i can, idea,s suggestions, anything at all, roof and siding-wise, its not a house, its a building so anything commericla that maybe would save some $ would be great, but i have no idea whats out there these days and how much. i wish i could find an old barn or something to snag corrugated steel panels from, i need a billion of them, i always see ppl hauling them to scrap, yet i cant find a single one..


    crazy,...


    thanks
     
  10. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I will post a diagram of how a three way switch works internally tomorrow when I get to work.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    great! that would rule, i appreciate it /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif


    thanks
     
  11. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Generally speaking, I usually only put four to six receptacles per 20A circuit, use 12 gauge wire. I wouldn't use a 30A circuit, you will need heavier wire (10 gauge).

    A 100watt bulb draws about 0.9Amps. Just divide the number of watts by the voltage to get the number of amps.

    Typically, I don't design any lighting or power system using 14ga. wire, you have to use a 15 amp max breaker or fuse. The only thing I use 14 ga. for is control wiring.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    control as in light switches correct ?


    more good info to take notes of /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif that rules /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    thanks /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  12. gm4x

    gm4x 1/2 ton status

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    I'd strip all the old roofing (that's an awful lot of excess weight)if you have 6 layers @ 240 pounds per square (100sq. ft.or a 10'X10' area) that's 1,440 pounds per square! /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif. and replace/brace whatever needed to repair/support roof structure. If you have a polebarn supplier, or some of the local home depots, lowes, menards, you can order corrugated siding/roofing to length (and color). I don't think there's really any "cheap" way out for you. I'd concentrate on the roof first, to prevent any leak damage (and getting rid of excess weight), worry about the walls later. Not sure, sounds like you mentioned it's a concrete floor. You going to use it for a garage/shop? Invite your buddies to help-out in exchange for storage & a place to wrench /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Feel free to email/PM if I can help answer any questions.
    Good luck!
    BRian
     
  13. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    hi, no the slab is not ground level its about four foot below ground level for most of the lengt hof the building, about 2/3 of the west-most end of the building is 4 foot under, and the end of the building that ends up at ground level is a cinder block wall so cant cut out for a garage there either especially with the poles and raailroad ties beams down center with the building only about 35 wide, if evne that much, the first floor(wooden floor is about two feet off the ground, the celing height down here on slab level is about 6.5 foot, its really pretty low down here and in the west end the slab floor is about 7 or 8" higher than everywhere else and i can barely walk standing all way up.

    i guess thats why it was not a nursing home for too long and was shut down, that and with having staircases and no ramps at all


    yeah the roof with all these layers on it has to be DAMN heavy especially with 3/4" planks/boards decking and all the 2x6's set on 24" centers

    i really do need to tear off roof especially the west 1/3 where the ridge sagging and wall spreading out problem is so that i can finish cranking the tops of the walls and ends of the roof rafters back towards each other alot easier than could be done with all the weight on everything


    to help you visualize this building layout:

    the building length of 100 foot runs east and west,

    the north and south width is only about 35 foot,

    the ceiling joists and roof rafters run across north and south with the ridge running east and west the entire length all same, entire building is basic barn shape, upstairs has a center support wall with double top plate setup placed directly above the steel poles and railroad ties beams wall on the slab floor, the railroad ties beams are 7" wide, two 2x4's set side by side to make widest width that you can makme with 2x4's, thats how thick the main center support wall is
    on the slab floor, upstairs its just 2x4 and its set directly under ridge of roof, but not used ot help support any of the roof, all of the rafters are one piece on each of the two halves of the roof, no seams or double ups. everything is straight and nice and perfect except the west 1/3 of the length f the building's roof that lost the ceiling joists- IE the building's side wall to side wall cross ties, so the walls spread out some, and im afraid 3 or so of them have slipped across the wall top plates and are making the fascia ends of the rafters jut out a little further than the rest- even with all the 3/4" decking boards and billions of shingles attached, it is all good and straight right above the west end wall however, just ridge sunkn down some from about 5 foot from end wall to about 20 foot from end wall and then it goes nice straight perfect again where ceiling joists are at, but they are 2x6 nice ones and the west end ceiling joists were just pieced together 2x4's laid on top of a wall almost down direct center of the west end, not lined upo with eastern 2/3 of the building's center support wall.


    well thanks for reading and for info and suggestions /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  14. gm4x

    gm4x 1/2 ton status

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    Randy....I sent you an email to Yahoo /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     

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