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Found some junkyard axles, need help on rebuild costs please read

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sled_dog, Aug 14, 2003.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Local yard quoted me $400 for front and rear axles. $350 for a 14 bolt Full Floater G30 van rear(yay width) and $50 for a K20 front axle that was just sitting there. Both 3.73 and I believe the Van rear is a Gov Lock equipped unit. The K20 axle is only the housing, knuckles, tire rod, carrier, and gears. So I need axle shafts, hubs, calipers I believe. How much would you think it will run me to rebuild the front axle? new hubs and rotors, can I reuse my stock blazer calipers? I did not take note of whether it was just an 8 lug 10 bolt or a dana 44 I figured it didn't matter much I just need an 8 lug front axle to match my rear. If it is an 8 lug 10 bolt could I reuse the shafts from my 6 lug 10 bolt? I'm pretty much paying for the matching gear ratio, 3.73s and 33s will be my setup so I really like that idea.
     
  2. dhdescender

    dhdescender 1/2 ton status

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    8 lug and 6 lug 10 bolts use the same shafts.

    Hubs can be found fairly cheap for 10 bolts, or Dana 44's.

    Dana 44 shafts may run you a bit more than the 10 bolts. Sorry I dont have a clue to rebuilding the axles.

    I'd take the front axle for $50, and keep looking for another 14 bolts. Thats a bit steep for a 14 bolt, even if it is a gov lock unit. Althouhg you may have a hard time finding another gov locked van axle.

    -Kyle.
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I know thats pretty steep for a 14 bolt but at our local yards thats the going rate. Only other 14 bolt I was interested in I found was like $375 at the only other good local junkyard. There are lots of yards but none of them carry even 3/4 ton trucks they mostly have cars, the two I go to are the only ones that do.
     
  4. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Sounds a bit hi on price, but I don't know how easy it is to find that stuff out there /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif anyway. I'll take a shot at this.

    Front rebuild about $35-$40 for bearings, races, and seals each side (Timken). Rotors are about $25 each. I used my stock calipers for my front axle upgrade You just need the 3/4 ton backing plates the 1/2 ton ones won't work. You shouldn't need new hubs just the rotors and new studs they are about $2 a piece. If it is an 8 lug 10b then I believe you can use the shafts from your 6 lug. Also if you have locking hubs on your 6 lug they will work on the 8 lug /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I am sure somebody will have other stuff to add that I missed. Good luck.
     
  5. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I've heard nothing but bad stuff about teh govlock is my only thing. I will only be running 33s and won't be crawling just the occassional good trail ride, mudding, and likely burnouts. Should I worry about it and get a detroit? If so I don't think its worth the 350 to me then. Probably be a lot better to get an open rear and through a lock right in it. I am gonna be spending large chunks on the K5 coming up and after that money will be tight cause I'm planning on moving out and into the world on my own really soon so I'm sure a lot of you know how that goes. Like to get the K5 good realiable and ready for me to ride with minimal incidental money afterwards.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Don't know as I've ever heard anynoe thats blown up a 14FF Gov-lock, although it may happen.

    The 10 bolt gov-lock carrier is what typically grenades, the 14FF doesn't seem to have the same problem.

    FWIW I had a 10 bolt gov-lock in my 83, have a 10 bolt gov-lock in my current truck. Neither has come apart on me. Usage is what determines if it will last.

    Sounds like for your application the gov-lock might be fine. Not the optimum "locker" for a trail only rig, but it has good street manners, and works as intended, so it's not always "bad".
     
  7. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I beat on my rears though thats why I am going to a 14 bolt. My 10 bolt is cooked, it clunks and you can move the pinion around so I'm sure at least he spiders and other stuff are gone.
     

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