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four link coilover setup

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by Chris Demartini, Feb 23, 2001.

  1. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>I have a few designs drawn up on my computer for a coil spring setup for my truck. Do you have any pictures of your coilover link setup? I want to see a front 4 link on a real live truck before I try to do it myself. What problems did you run into? </font color=blue>

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  2. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    Here is a link on a friends bronco. I know it is a bronco but you can see what he done and how easy it is to build a coil front end. Here is a picture also. http://www.rustbucket.coloradok5.com
    Bigger is Better
     
  3. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>Thanks for the link, that thing is pretty cool. </font color=blue>

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Whassup

    Whassup 1/2 ton status

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    Is it really that easy to fab a 4 link set up? and what would you recommend as cheap but decent coil overs? i want to fab a 4 link setup for my Junkyard Gem.

    "There's NO replacement for displacement!"
     
  5. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    It is really a 3 link setup. I like it better than a true 4 link. All you need to do is add a crossover steering and a panhard rod like stephen from Offroad Design did, then add the radius arms.
    [​IMG]

    Here is a wristed radius arm for a bronco but you could adapt it to a blazer very easy.
    http://www.rustbucket.coloradok5.com
    Bigger is Better
     
  6. AgDieseler

    AgDieseler Certified Scrap Producer Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Silly Phord drivers. That's a pretty paint job though.

    David
    '85 diesel burban
     
  7. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I'll let you know when it's on the truck! There are a lot of ways to link up a front end and the biggest rule is: STAY AWAY FROM RADIUS ARMS! They cannot flex except by compliance of the mounting points. I know a lot of the work in the real world, but they are all LONG arms with rubber bushings. The whole reason to link them up in the first place is for axle control and less bind than you get with a leaf spring, so no reason to make it worse. I also know Warn and Rubicon Express make/made radius arms work in their kits, but the warn XCL EATS radius arm bushings all the time. Not functional as far as I'm concerned. Rubicon's seems to hold up a little better because they use a different bushing arrangement with one more urethane mounting point for extra compliance to let it all move. I have a friend that changed his Warn kit to a 4 link and it worked a lot better, maybe not in absolute flexability, but he didn't have to replace bushings every time he used the Jeep (oops, I meant jeep:-)

    The shock on the arm in those pics is a waste of money and fabrication time. It does nothing. He would be better served by separating his links on the radius arm and making it a true 3 link, or at least leaving the shock off and running a straight bar to the heim mount. A 3 link would allow a little better castor change curve, and would spread the loads out a little more.

    You have to be careful designing a 4 leading link suspension because once again, you can build bind into the suspension when it articulates. If you have any castor change curve at all, you'll rely on the compliance of the mounting points to allow articulation. In fact, suspension modeling programs won't model a 4 link unless the arms are mounted to "floaters" around the tube and the axle wrap is controlled by a 5th link.
    That's why we're building a 3 leading link setup with the 4th link being the panhard bar. No bind on articulation, good castor change curves, etc. Hopefully the axle will be done in the next week or two, then we can hang it under the truck. We'll have pics as we go and will try to post them, or just put them all on a page on our site.
    As for coilovers, we went with King's, other choices are Sway-away, Fox, or Bilstein. And I think Doetch Tech is building some also. All are similar in price and selection, with some variations in quality of individual parts, which probably only matters when you're doing 80+ for hours on end. Plan on spending a grand on shocks and springs, maybe a bit more. It would be cheaper to mount coils and separate shocks, but the fab time is greater with that setup. It's hard to beat coilovers for ease of mounting.
    Thanks, hope this helps.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  8. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    OK, maybe I should give the guy a little credit, maybe he's running a hydraulic valve in line with that cylinder so the whole link arrangement can act as a swaybar when the valve is closed.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  9. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    Well, lets start off by saying have you ever heard of a wristed radius arm for a bronco. I came up with the idea 6 years ago and have been building them for guys here in Denver. This is the best preforming suspension mod for a bronco. I don't know how many people have told me that, that setup will not work but I prove them wrong everytime. This in not a new concept. I worked on heavy equipment for years and the dozer blade on a D8 to D10 uses this same setup. Look at what I mean. You can force the blade to articulate with a hydraulic cylinder. The other arm that you don't see is usualy locked solid.Click on the link and you will see the tractor.http://www.rustbucket.coloradok5.com
    Bigger is Better
     
  10. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I'm planning on giving it some castor change to help the drive shaft out, but it is being built to fly. I'm not buying coilovers to baby the thing. I'm a firm believer in being able to drive as fast as I want and do it safely. I don't exactly race it, but I have noticed the 2" bilsteins fade after a while.
    Really, I have a couple of favorite camping spots that are pretty remote, it's fun to get there and relax.

    The wristed arms look like they'd work just fine, and the hydraulic link makes sense once you pick out the ports for the hoses and figure out what they're for. I can see brake torqe being a little strange, and same with a lot of drive torque, as long as only one side is hooked up.
    I'm also thinking I'll end up with better ground clearance than a radius arm, I'll have to see how it goes.

    I'm kind of an engineering purist, and even the wristed setups can have some side to side bind. Obviously acceptable in the real world, since they do work well, but I kind of like the "clean" factor of individual links.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  11. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    Here is a link for you Stephen. It is not real pretty but it is some cool pictures.http://www.rustbucket.coloradok5.com
    Bigger is Better
     

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