Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Front 10 bolt yoke

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Leadfoot, Jun 25, 2001.

  1. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    I am going to purchase a 1 ton CV shaft from Jesse at HighAngleDriveline. The question is I would like to convert the 10 bolt yoke to accept a 1350 u-joint instead of the 1310/1330 (can't remember which it is). I know I can use a hybrid joint but it's only as strong as the weakest link, plus someday I WILL have a D60. Is there a way to modify the existing yoke, is there a yoke that you can buy, or am I SOL.
    Thanks.

    If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    May 9, 2000
    Posts:
    8,126
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    FL
    Probably the best thing to do it talk it over with Jesse! he would be able to tell you best!

    <font color=green>MIKE</font color=green> - "Hukd on fawnics,werkd fer me!"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101</A>
     
  3. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2000
    Posts:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Houston
    Your 10-bolt front should have a 1310 yoke.
    I 2nd asking Jesse. He knows his stuff.
    -- Mike
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    Use a hybrid U-joint until you get your Dana 60, then just pop a 1350 in there and you're good to go.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  5. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    2 Things:

    1: The D60 uses the same u-joint as the 10 bolt and D44 (1310) that's why you can interchange front driveshafts 1/2 - 1 ton. You can buy a yoke though (I think for a rear D60) that is set up for a 1350 joint and convert the front D60 (Shawn at offroad.com did this).

    2: I was just going to use a hybrid joint until I get my D60, but my fear is breaking it at the joint and having it ruin the driveshaft (after spending all the money) and/or having it take out the tranny pan or oil pan.

    If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    How come my stock driveshaft wouldn't fit with an axle from an '82 K20? The K20 had a smaller U-joint.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    And how would you break the shaft with a hybrid u-joint? I'm pretty sure he'd give you a new one anyway.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  8. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    To be honest, I'm not sure. I know when I installed my lift, I pulled the front driveshaft out of a K30 D60 and bolted it in to my K20 10 bolt (no mods to either), while I was having my K20 shaft lengthened. The only thing I can think of is was yours a D44? The D60 and 10 bolt share the same brake lines while the D44 is different (due to different banjo bolts), maybe the same with the yokes. Also it might be due to different transfer cases. Both shafts came off trucks equipped NP205 transfer cases. Is yours a 203 or 208?

    If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     
  9. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    It's not the shaft I'm worried about breaking, it's the joint. The other thing is I'm sure he would give me a new shaft free of charge if it broke, but would he pay for the cracked engine block or tranny from the driveshaft smacking it at 3000 rpm's? I am trying to avoid that in the first place, that's why I inquired about the heavier duty yoke, so that I can use the heavier duty u-joint, so hopefully I won't have to worry about anything breaking and hitting something else.

    If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     
  10. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2000
    Posts:
    1,530
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Temp. Ft. Walton Beach Fl. home=Tucson, Az.
    Nhum, wheel speed of greater than 30 MPH ?
    What kinda application is this ?
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    I guess...but I never go THAT fast in 4wd to worry about something like that happening.

    No, mine never had a 44. Both trucks had NP 208s, bu the other truck had a TH 400, mine has a 700R4. The K20 shaft is shorter and has a smaller front u-joint. I'm actually worried it's too short. But anyway, why did it use a smaller u-joint?

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  12. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2000
    Posts:
    4,227
    Likes Received:
    142
    Location:
    Carbondale Colorado
    There is a 1350 yoke available for the 10 bolt, I don't remember if it takes a different seal or not, but we have them both. Realistically, you will have a hard time breaking a driveshaft joint with a 1/2T front axle, I've seen a few D60 30 spl stubs break with a stock 1310 joint on the driveshaft. 1350's are nice insurance, I ran them on the 10 and 12 bolt with a 1310 cv in the front and a 1330 CV in the rear. Not exactly all matched up because it was changed several times, but the only thing that ever broke was axle shaft parts in the front. And ujoints never wore out!
    I think the yoke is about $60 or so.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [image]http://coloradok5.com/logo_ordsmall.gif[/image]
    SW-ORD
     
  13. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    Stephen, do you know where you bought the 10 bolt 1350 yokes (Boyce, Dynatrac, etc)? I just want the added insurance, and it will make the swap easy when I put in the D60 with 1350 yoke. I do pulls with my rig (Built 400 high revving small block with angle plugged 2.02 heads, 11:1 compression, high RPM's and torque when pulling the sled) with my foot on the floorboard. I have outpulled 454's, 502's, 460's, PowerStokes, Cummin's, and waiting to see how the new Duramax's and Big-Blocks do with the new Allison's. I would hate to have a joint break at full throttle while pulling a 30,000+ lb object. Both front and rear are locked and I pound the Pi$$ out of them. The 14 bolt FF I'm not worried about and I've beefed the 10 bolt with all the aftermarket goodies, and fortuneately for me, most of my playing is in a straight line, so the axles shafts and universal joints in the knuckles are spared some. I bring it on trail rides, but those seem easy on the rig (stress wise) because I am never at full throttle on the trails, and I try to pick the straightest line possible (also very little rock-crawling in this area, I'm trying to find spots though, so if anyone knows of any in Western Mass please let me know). I just want the added insurance until I put in my D60. It's the old saying of paying a little now, or a lot later (when something breaks that I could have avoided). I don't mind spending money on my rig when it comes to piece of mind.

    If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     

Share This Page