Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Front 10bolt pinion seal leaking How to replace.???

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Monster, Jan 22, 2004.

  1. Monster

    Monster Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2002
    Posts:
    68
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    New Jersey Warren county
    My front 10bolt pinoin seal is leaking.I know how to change it but how much do you torque the nut down for the yoke.???


    Thanks.
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,980
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    Are you sure the nut itself isn't just loose?

    Almost impossible to "do it right" once the crush sleeve is set, on mine I went "tight as I could with a ratchet" and it has been fine (actually about three times on one axle, and once or twice on a similar GM car axle) but typically people will say to count how many threads are exposed before pulling it.

    Maybe mark the relation of the nut to the pinion so you can get them back to exactly the same spot, but even then, it's not the "right" way, which would involve testing the preload.
     
  3. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    [ QUOTE ]
    Are you sure the nut itself isn't just loose?

    Almost impossible to "do it right" once the crush sleeve is set, on mine I went "tight as I could with a ratchet" and it has been fine (actually about three times on one axle, and once or twice on a similar GM car axle) but typically people will say to count how many threads are exposed before pulling it.

    Maybe mark the relation of the nut to the pinion so you can get them back to exactly the same spot, but even then, it's not the "right" way, which would involve testing the preload.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    The best way is to test the preload before you take the nut off and then match it.
    I am lookign for an inch/lb torque wrench that is not the click type so I can do that on some of my leaking axles.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Monster

    Monster Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2002
    Posts:
    68
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    New Jersey Warren county
    My mechanic told me to use a 3/8 ratchet and tighten it as much as I could. So that’s what I decided to do. Hopefully my 10bolt does no blow up. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  5. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2001
    Posts:
    3,005
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Thornton, CO
    The 3/8" thing, that's what I did and the nut backed off whild driving, locking the rear axle destroying it...
     
  6. dave_90_blazer

    dave_90_blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2004
    Posts:
    688
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Melvindale, Michigan
    if you tightened it with a 3/8 ratchet, take a hammer and centerpuch and hit the part of the nut that is smooth, so it squishes against the threads, that will help keep it from coming loose
     

Share This Page