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front axle is leaking at the ends

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by deek, Jul 19, 2003.

  1. deek

    deek 1/2 ton status

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    I have oil leaking out of the driverside axleshaft right behind the U-joint. How do i fix that? or how hard is it to get to that seal? this is on a dana44

    Please /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    You're in for a pretty time consuming job....

    The seals that you need to replace are inside the housing, just outboard from the carrier bearings. Pretty much everything has to come apart to replace them. Axle shafts have to come out so you can get the carrier out- So the outters have to come off down to the knuckle. If you are fairly mechanically inclined, it's not that hard, just time consuming. Basically just take it completely apart. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Best thing to do is get the old seals out and get the part # from the seals. I had a few issues getting the right part # for a '71 3/4 ton D44. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Just changed the riders side yesterday. Since I was installing an Auburn posi it had to come apart anyways.
    Axle has to come out then you need something to tap the seal into place. Its kinda a major PITA. When you refil the diff, fill it to about 1/2 to 1 inch below the fill hole. This keeps fluid from filling the axle tubes and also prevents leaks.
     
  4. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    did you take it swimming recently?
    big job, but a good one to learn
     
  5. deek

    deek 1/2 ton status

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    yes I'm starting to think that my blazers on the river swim team.

    So how do i remove the carrier? after removing the axleshafts is everything capable of comming out together, -the pinion gear or is it going to have to be part by part. is there any place i could find some instructions ?
     
  6. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    If you havent done one before I suggest you get a manual or information from a repair manual from the library.
    You must disassemble the hubs, remove the 2 snap rings (PITA), hub/rotor, etc. Remove the cover, rotate the carrier intil ou see the small bolt holding in the pin, remove bolt and pin, push axles INWARD, remove C-clips from axles in the carrier, pull axles out, remove carrier bolts and pop out carrier. You do not need to remove the pinion. Be careful the spider gears dont roll out of the carrier and dont loose the carrier shims and remember what side they came out of. Pop the seal out, insert the new one, (I used a long bar thru the opposite axle tube to tap the seal in place), then re-assemble in reverse order.

    Again Strongly suggest getting a good maint manual or get the info from a manual from the library. Its time consuming, not all that hard and can easily be screwed up.
    Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    This keeps fluid from filling the axle tubes and also prevents leaks.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    The idea of the seal is to keep the oil OUT of the tube. Underfilling a differential? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif No. Fill it to the top.
    This info is wrong for a rear axle as well. There is a bearing at the end of the tube in rear axles that needs the lube from the pumpkin. With oil below the fill hole, it won't make it down the tube to lube the bearing./forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

    [ QUOTE ]
    If you havent done one before I suggest you get a manual or information from a repair manual from the library.
    You must disassemble the hubs, remove the 2 snap rings (PITA), hub/rotor, etc. Remove the cover, rotate the carrier intil ou see the small bolt holding in the pin, remove bolt and pin, push axles INWARD, remove C-clips from axles in the carrier, pull axles out, remove carrier bolts and pop out carrier. You do not need to remove the pinion. Be careful the spider gears dont roll out of the carrier and dont loose the carrier shims and remember what side they came out of. Pop the seal out, insert the new one, (I used a long bar thru the opposite axle tube to tap the seal in place), then re-assemble in reverse order.

    Again Strongly suggest getting a good maint manual or get the info from a manual from the library. Its time consuming, not all that hard and can easily be screwed up.
    Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    There are no c-clips in front axles. He's working on a '73 D44 front. No shims to worry about either. They are between the carrier and the carrier bearing, which is pressed on. After you get the axle shafts out, you might have to get creative with a pry bar or something to get the carrier out. (They actually make a tool called a "case spreader" to do this, but I've never needed it) I use my high lift handle to pry it out. Put something under the diff to catch the carrier if you have to pry it out. To get it back in is interesting as well. Dead blow hammer works well, also can be done with regular hammer and brass punch. When you get it close enuff to get the bearings caps on, and the bolts started a few threads, you can pull it the rest of the way into place with the bolts. You also can use a small soft faced mallet to carefully tap the seal in from the inside the housing. You don't have to touch the pinion at all while taking things apart, when putting it together, you might have to reach back and turn the yoke slightly to get the teeth on the pinion to line up with the teeth on the ring. Not likely. Remove the tie rod of course, makes it alot easier.

    88Silverado-Have you really done this job? Or ya just shootin in the dark? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  8. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    88Silverado-Have you really done this job? Or ya just shootin in the dark?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    It has been a long time since I have done this work and yes, some of it was from the dark recesses of my memory (which apparently is getting worse). The slight underfill was for the front. The rear is to the top for bearing lube like you said. You are correct, there are no c-clips on the front, the snap rings hold the axles in place (at lease on the 8.5). After I re-read what I posted I did pick up some errors I made. Guess was crossing front and rear assys. Sorry for the bad info /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I'll shut up now.. /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
     
  9. deek

    deek 1/2 ton status

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    Either way, you both have been a great help & I just want to thank you.

    I have everything out & apart, now I just have to put it all back together. Does anybody know the torque specs one the carier bolts, & the hub nuts?
     
  10. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Carrier bearing cap bolt torque spec is 60ft.lbs if I remember correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  11. deek

    deek 1/2 ton status

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    in my haynes manual it list--

    center bearing support-to-hanger bolt........ 20 to 30 Ft-lbs

    Is this the carrer for my front end?
     
  12. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    KidJethro is correct. The specs I have found say 60-70lb.
    If you cant find the spec for the front hub, I suggest calling a rear-end company, probably tell ya in a minute.
    I Think is 50lb but check it out. Im probably wrong /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  13. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    so you got the new seals in? I have to do the same thing to mine, any advice? I put on the knuckles out, but never touched a diff before.
     
  14. deek

    deek 1/2 ton status

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    at the diff. it was actually easy, but mine being a 73 i didn't have any shims to worry about.
    I used a 1"x5' round pipe to tap out the seal throught the axle tube, then just tapped them in with a small hammer
     
  15. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I "thought" that was the an option on most GM pickups.

    They called it the self lubing lower ball-joint option /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    J/K for those that think I'm serious.

    As stated it's a "fun" job, but very doable.

    Also as stated, fill the diff up to the full line. Actually if you can jack one end of the truck up to raise the fill hole and add MORE fluid, I think you are better off (just make sure you have long vent lines).

    I don't know if anyone else stated it yet, but you will be removing alot of the front end components. Now is the PERFECT time to replace the front u-joints, check/replace bearings and seals, and check/replace your balljoints. It would suck to have to tear it all apart again to replace a bad ball-joint or u-joint. It may cost an extra bill or two, but then you have piece of mind for a long time.

    Hope this helps
     

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