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Front axle/U joint Q's

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Geargrinder, Feb 7, 2006.

  1. Geargrinder

    Geargrinder 1/2 ton status

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    I did a serch, but I'm going blind now:rolleyes:
    I'm steping up to 4340 shafts in the front, and I'm not going to have the $$ for CTM's or OX's right now. So what would U guys recomend for U joints?
    I was thinking about those WARN hub fuses as well, but I'm not sure if they would do me any good. Any one useing them? When I put the new shafts and U joints in what can I expect to start breaking next? the carier?
    I'm not going D60, 'caus I'm sticking with the 35's. If I ever go bigger with this truck it's gon be A LOT bigger, so for peace of mind I would go to rockwells.
     
  2. 79chevyk10

    79chevyk10 1/2 ton status

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    I've heard good things about the Yukon Superjoints, I believe they are 1/2 the price as the CTM's. 200 bucks for a pair. I personally would use (and do use) the CTM's but you stated that's not gonna happen now. Don't bother putting those axles in unless you do have strong u-joints to go with. Those axle warranties are only good unless a broken u-joint takes the axle with it. Sticking with 35's you should be fine, just don't put the hammer down with the wheel at full crank, if you feel something start to bind pick a new line. If your front is open carrier, don't even worry about it.
     
  3. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Back in my 10-bolt front axle days I always broke the u-joints, not the axleshafts.....so I would have to say you pretty much need some sort of bling u-joints. Also the broken u-joints almost always screw up the yokes on the shafts when they break. This was with 35" tires and front limited slip.
     
  4. JUNIOR-K5

    JUNIOR-K5 1/2 ton status

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    I know ctm's are strongest u joint but how do the ox hold up compared to ctm.
     
  5. Cricket

    Cricket 3/4 ton status

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    I went with JE Reel AX44- a needle bearing joint 40% stronger than a Spicer 760. Cryo tanked with stronger trunion. That was a good in-between joint for me. If I break one of those I will pay for CTM's.

    Search the dreaded Pirate and you'll find some good reviews. You can buy them from OK4WD: http://www.ok4wd.com/product.asp?id=654

    These are not made to compete with CTM's joints but seem to offer a good middle ground.
     
  6. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    OX ujoints are junk! I had an ox on the short side and a CTM on the long side. I now have CTM's on both sides.

    My ox u joint broke the trunion piece in the center that holds the caps in place. They walked out and destroyed the threads on my ball joints in the knuckle. They are a PITA to install and remove.

    As the saying goes, you get what you pay for. I would recommend the Yukon Super joints if you don't go CTM.

    Good luck and happy hunting:D
     
  7. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Oh ya, my CTM's have not broken yet, I have a lot of faith and $$ into them....
     
  8. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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  9. Geargrinder

    Geargrinder 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys! U all got me to thinking, and I think I was gona do this backwards.:o I think I should spend the $$ on joints 1st, then get the 4340's when I can aford it. I looked @ the Yukon's and they look good, but I still want to shop around and check out all my options 1st.
    Thank U all for the input, U might have just saved me a good chunk of change wasted on axles I would still break:doah:
     
  10. dhilgenberg

    dhilgenberg Registered Member

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    Broke my first axle joint on 10 bolt i dont off road that much and when i do i baby it is it worth it to go with the high dollar u-joints am going to start off roading more waiting to get a secondary fuel efficient car
     

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