Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Front Axle U-Joints

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 83k5project, Dec 20, 2000.

  1. 83k5project

    83k5project Newbie

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2000
    Posts:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Illinios
    I would like to start by saying this has to be the best message forum I have seen. I've spent hours looking through here today. It's great!!

    Now to my question, could someone tell me how I can go about changing my front axle u-joints. Are there special tools required? And, do you have to pull the front axle pumpkin apart (I was reading somewhere about floating axles, how do you know if you have them?). I have a 83 K5 Blazer with manual lock-out hubs.
    I'm a newbe to working on 4x4's, and any info would help greatly. As the snow is flyn, and I have no 4 wheelin.


    83 Blazer
    65 Olds 442
    65 Olds Cutlass
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    If they're the factory u-joints, you may need a press to get them out. Those suckers are usually in there TIGHT! To get the axles out you have to remove the wheel, brake caliper, locking hub, wheel bearing retaining nuts and outer wheel bearing. Then you can pull off the rotor and remove the 6 nuts that hold the spindle to the steering knuckle. Sometimes the spindle housing will be a bit rusted in place so you may have to persuade it out of the hole in the steering knuckle.

    Once the spindle is off, you can just pull the axle right out. No need to go inside the differential. Now you can remove the clips holding the u-joint caps in place and start trying to get the old u-joint out. Once you install the new joint, put it back together. Might as well replace the bearing seals and repack the bearings while you have it apart. Don't forget tho grease the needle bearing that's in the backside of the spindle. That's where the axle shaft rides. Now do the other side. [​IMG]

    Your front axle is what's known as a full floater. It just means that the weight of the vehicle is supported by the spindle instead of by the axle itself. A stock K5 rear end uses a semi-floating design. This means that the axle supports the weight of the vehicle.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2000
    Posts:
    3,238
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    Harry is right on the money bro, but there is one more thing!
    Once you get ready to put the axles back in...
    You need to keep the axle splines from pushing the dirt thats inside the tube, into the pumpkin.this will cram the dirt into the bearings. Take a flash light and shine it down to axle tubes and you will see the dirt Im talking about. You can use any guenious plan you want. I have heard of "ripping" a pvc pipe in half, like cutting in thru the radius so it looks like a skateboard half pipe, then you can slide it in there and then guide the axles in. Some leave the hole piece of unripped pvc in ther, so that when your an a trail ride, and you have to swap out an axle, the pvc is already there for you. You just have to pull it out adn wash it in the local stream before you use it. Or you can get a broom handle adn tape soem cloth to it and run the broom in on the high side and pull it back out on the downside. But just remember, not to push that dirt into the carrier.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com>http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com</A>
     
  4. 83k5project

    83k5project Newbie

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2000
    Posts:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Illinios
    Thanks for the info, this will make the job allot easier.

    83 Blazer
    65 Olds 442
    65 Olds Cutlass
     
  5. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2000
    Posts:
    3,719
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lubbock, TX
    While you're at it, check the balljoints and replace them if they need it, or look like they will need it. You really don't want to go in there too much, its a PITA!!!

    90K5
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Not to burst you bubble but fair warning...those inner axle seals are old if they are the originals. There is a very good chance if you don't replace them that they will fail from the abuse of the splines passing through them. replacing the U-Joints you got 80% of the work done needed to replace them. The last 20% involves removing the carrier and putting in the new seals. Be very care full to watch the shims that space the carrier and really pay attention to how far in those seals are. The carrier is in there tight and you will need to pry it out and tap it in with a rubber mallet. Once you have it part way in you can use the bearing caps to pull it the rest of the way in.
    Don't skimp on the seals. BUY REAL DANA SEALS MADE IN THE USA!. NAPA sells the DANA seals but open the box and look for the made in USA stampon the part. Even Dana is getting cheap Jap and China seals and packaging them. Both these countries have poor quality rubber products and the US parts will out last them 2:1.
    Not telling you you have to replace these seals but more than 50% of the people I know that have pulled those shafts on older trucks have had to replace those seals pretty soon afterwards.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     

Share This Page