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Front Brakes and Rotors

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by chrskrngl, Jul 5, 2006.

  1. chrskrngl

    chrskrngl Registered Member

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    I am sure a ton of people have already had to replace their front pads and rotors, but I haven't. I looked it up in the haynes manual and it wasn't very descriptive, I started to do it and then got a little mixed up with the locking hubs do I need to take that whole system apart in order to get to the rotors? If anyone has posted or would like to post a little more detailed instructions or e-mail them to me that would be great. Thanks
     
  2. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    For the 1/2 ton stuff, you have to take the whole thing apart up the knuckle. Take the locking hub off, undo the wheel bearing locknut, lockwasher, and second locknut, the the rotor should come off. I just did mine this weekend.
     
  3. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    Not just half ton all GM SFA have the rotors on the back side of the hub. You have to take it all apart and then press the studs out to free the rotor from the hub.

    Ira
     
  4. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    On the front, (I assumed you meant the front because you said "rotors") I don't have to remove the spindle or press out any studs. You just need to remove the wheel bearings. The front's are full float axles aren't they? Maybe the rears are different, I haven't taken that apart just yet.
     
  5. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    If you buy the rotor with out the hub you do. If you get the whole assembly then no you dont have to press out studs, but the seperate the rotor and the hub you have to remove the studs first. The spindel stays on the knuckle and the axle shafts are not effected at all just the hub/rotor assembly.

    Ira
     
  6. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Hmm, maybe I'm thinking of something completely different. Do you mean if you are replacing the rotor and keeping the sheel studs? Are wheel studs that expensive? I'd think they would be cheap enough to just get new ones instead of salvaging the old stuff. Maybe I'm just looking at my 35 year old studs too harshly. :)
     
  7. chrskrngl

    chrskrngl Registered Member

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    thanks for the help, I am not sure if I am going to tackle this project or not. my baby is sittiing at a garage right now for state inspection and it sounds like I will have many more projects to do before I tackle this one. Does anyone know for a fact if the spedometer and odometer are tied into the same circuit. The guy at the garage said he would not pass it for emissions because the odometer was busted. All I know is I am not putting 1500 dollars into a vehicle that cost me 600.
     
  8. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    My 71 is, but later model stuff might not be. What kind and year of truck is it? The odometer gears on mine were frozen too, so I found a better one at a wrecking yard and replaced it. Cost me about $30 for the salvaged speedo.
     
  9. chrskrngl

    chrskrngl Registered Member

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    It's a stock 79 K5 blazer 350 5.7l, I do'nt have much time to put into it nor money but it works great for hauling some light off roading and to take our dogs places
     
  10. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    I guess if you have the same model speedo, then it probably is all one thing. You can try looking for a speedo in a wrecking yard and replace it. It's kind of a stupid law you have. In Ca., you just state that the mileage isn't the actual mileage if the odometer breaks. You aren't required to fix the speedometer if it's broken.
     

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