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Front CV binding up on its self....

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 8_YOUR_H2, Apr 2, 2003.

  1. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I noticed a bad vibration on my last test run when it was in 4WD so I turned the front driveshaft by hand and it seems to be binding up on its self at the CV. The shaft was supposedly for a 6" lift and is one of Jess's but I bought it from a member here. I run 6" springs with a D60 and the ORD shackles. Its just a regular spicer style CV not a flange. Are there any problems with binding on taller lifts, can I grind the CV and relieve it somehow.
    Thanks
    Brent
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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  3. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    My old front shaft started binding on itself on the trail one day. I figured, no problems...it will "self clearance" on its own... Well, to make a long story short, it broke later that day when I got to Funny Rocks. So, I don't know what makes them bind...but I would suggest getting it fixed before you drive on it!
     
  4. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    If that is a 1310 CV use the outer portions, just buy a ball rotator center section for a 1330 CV, and 10/12 bolt conversion joints and you have a 40 degree CV./forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Mudzer, can you expand on that a little bit? I'm going to have the same problem and that sounds like it would be a cool way to go. </font>
     
  6. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Essentially all you need is an existing Spicer type 1310 CV to start with. You disassemble the CV completely. The Center section and ball pivot will be discarded. Purchase a 1330 center section and ball pivot, also purchase the Spicer conversion joints to go from 1310 to 1330 (standard 10 bolt rear to 12 bolt rear conversion joint). Reassemble with these parts. I haven't done this mod myself yet, Im still running the near stock Saginaw CV up front. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  7. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    Do you happen to know any part numbers or vehicles I can use as a reference? I could just imagine the look on the face of the parts store guy when I tell him what I need /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  8. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    Mudzer, isnt the ball pivot part of the driveshaft?
     
  9. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey,
    THe standard 10 to 12 joint is Brute force# 3-3130 availible at Autozone.
    Those CV parts...no numbers for those yet. But i know 80's broncos had stock 1330 CV's in them. I say buy the joints then go to the junkyard to find some prime pickin's. Finding just those CV parts at a parts store would be hard...trust me...I know. There is no way for me to get them at AZ. Maybe try Napa.
    Blake
     
  10. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks for the info
     
  11. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    The ball pivot and casting floats independant from the shaft.
     
  12. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I just got off the phone with Jess at high angle and he advised me that replacing the 1310 cross shaft with a 1330 cross shaft has an effect on the geometry of the driveshaft and essentially tears the pin away from the ball causing failure. There is another company in Arizona (wonder who that might be) who does this and well lets just say there were no good words about it. I have to upgrade to a 32 spline output and a 1350 cv if I want to eliminate the binding. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
     
  13. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    Let me take that back...that joint might not be what you are looking for.
    The cclip lock rings on those joints are inner....while i believe you need outer joints for that CV.
    I told Neil that the joint needed was that 10 to 12 conversion joint...so blame everything on me.
    The joint you do need is a 1330 to 1310 joint....But i think that you outer lock rings on CV shafts ? correct ?
    My flange style front shaft uses outer but i can't say for everything. I know that most will use outer though.
    I guess one can look through "mj"'s spicer catalog he scanned to find the right spicer part number. Or dig thought the local Autozone ...or i believe napa has a good crossreference guide on joints.
    Blake
     
  14. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Spoken like a true salesman!
     
  15. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to lower the tcase and save myself the $700. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    If you are planing to drop the case to releave the angle on the front shaft you are kidding yourself. It will be worse.
     
  17. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    My 205 has flange and it uses interinal rings, but it's a Tom Wood's, not stock. My 203 uses a yoke and has external rings. Not sure I would have done it but it sounded intresting, especially since I already have one of those joints in my spares box.
     

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