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Front driveshaft prob

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Russell Keys, May 1, 2000.

  1. Russell Keys

    Russell Keys 1/2 ton status

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    Well it's not exactly a K5 but has the same set ups some of yall do. We put a 6" lift on my brother's Dodge 1ton and can't get the driveshaft to bolt up. He has granny 4spd and 205. The truck is too tall for the amount of angle the front driveshaft needs at the t-case. If we bolt it up at the t-case the "upper knuckle?" joint on the shaft bottoms out. We've been scratching our heads for awhile and don't know which way to fix our problem would be.


    thanks, Russell
     
  2. CBLAZER81

    CBLAZER81 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not positive but maybe lowering the transfer case would do it.I'm not the most knowledgable but that was the first thing that came to my mind.Good luck.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  3. BB454

    BB454 1/2 ton status

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    The previous reply is right in my opinion aswell. Without mods to the front driveshaft the only option left would be to lower the transfercase and that would posibly require lowering the engine to keep everything in the correct line. The fellows that run high lifts would be the ones to give you the correct advice here. There has to be some way to modify the front driveshaft.

    BB454
    IF IT DOES NOT HAVE 8 PISTONS - IT'S BROKEN !
     
  4. Russell Keys

    Russell Keys 1/2 ton status

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    I don't think it's possible to lower the t-case because of the PTO winch driveshaft and control lever. I've noticed some of yall run a cv driveshaft. I talked with a guy I know in Houston and he referred me to 4-states drive or something like that. Well I called 4-states and was told what measurements to get, but am VERY weary to try solve this problem through mailorder and longdistance phone calls. Has anyone here dealt with them before?

    Thanks, Russell
     
  5. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    It has been my experience that If you go with a high quality driveshaft maker like, Denny's driveshaft or 6-states distributor's , then you will have no problems. It will be there in a few days and it will bolt right up. You also need to check on the slip-yoke length to make sure you don't separate the new driveshaft, flex your truck all the way out and do the measurments again add a little to the difference and there's your slip-yoke length. Also, a CV-type driveshaft is the only way to go with a big lift because it compunds the u-joint angle of operation and give you a lot more play there.
     
  6. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    A cv-joint would be the best bet for the front. Does the truck not have a cv-joint at the t-case end of the front drive-shaft anyway? If not it should. As far as lowering the t-case goes, it will not help out the front driveshaft. When you lower the t-case all you really do is tilt it back, not drop it down. The lowering comes from spacers put in-between the frame and where the t-case mounts to the frame. Actually, lowering the t-case dosen't solve front driveshaft angles anyway, it just makes them worse b/c you tilt the t-case. It is mainly for rear driveshaft angle problems. I would recommend six states for driveshafts. Several others on this board have had good luck with their products, as well as some of my friends.

    BIGJ
     
  7. Russell Keys

    Russell Keys 1/2 ton status

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    I was confused earlier. It was called six states. So I should be able to tell them the measurements and they'll build me a driveshaft w/o even needing the truck? Sounds kinda backasswards to me. Did anyone you know of have a problem with their new driveshaft?
     
  8. mudfanatic

    mudfanatic 1/2 ton status

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    after reading all of the posts I see that you can't lower the t-case[​IMG] Even if you do have a driveshaft built, and yes they can build one with just measurements and do a good job of it. I'd go with Denny's or there is a guy that used to work for Six States Colorado, I can't think of his name right now,,, anyway even with the new driveshaft you might be dealing with driveline vibrations so your friend might have to take it to a competent frame and axle shop, have the axle tubes taken off, twisted and the spring perches reinstalled to get the proper driveline angle.
    Hate to be the bearer of high dollar news and I hope that you can get away without spending that kind of $$$ but sometimes it's just a fact of life with tall lifts.
    '77 K5

    <font color=red>mudfanatic</font color=red>[​IMG]
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    With that much lift your going to have to shim the front axle to get the driveshaft back into proper alingment. The front shaft should be a CV style and if so the pinion angle must be in alignment with the driveshaft or you will get serious vibration. One you get the pinion back inline it may give you enough to get the shaft back in but you need to get the truck flexed out and make sure the shaft is not binding on full droop. Even with a aftermarket shaft you may have to install some limiting straps to keep from damaging the driveshaft.
    This will also put more caster into the front end and that will case some more tendancy for bump steer.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     

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